Battery on 2011 RT won't hold a charge

[GeoffCee]

I understand that the Spyder electrical system will not bring a battery up to 100% by riding alone.

As a matter of routine I use my C-Tech battery charger/monitor whenever I've been out on the RT. I have great faith in the C-Tech, it kept a gel battery alive on my BeeEmm R1150RT for 9 years before I sold it. As I plug it into the Spyder it shows a green light almost immediately, (battery fully charged). I'd be worried if it didn't, except for my sat-nav and Autocom I have nothing additional using my RT's electrical system.

I've always assumed a vehicle's charging system would keep its battery fully charged. Lamonster will know, he has described installing two batteries on one of his machines, (an RT I think), so the Spyder's generator in that case will be required to do double the work. :f_spider:

 

[SpyderFun]

According to the Maintenance Manual (pg392 - Midwest Manuals), the charging system should deliver 13.0-14 Vdc @ 4,000rpm. Static check of battery voltage should be around 12.6 Vdc.

This means we should be riding @ or above 4,000rpm to ensure the battery receives an ongoing charge. Remember, magneto charging systems work more efficiently @ higher rpms (think lawn mower engine which runs @ full-throttle). Alternator systems use a regulator to vary this voltage for different rpms. The Rotax engine is used in light aircraft which means it is usually operated above 4,000 rpms. We are likely use to riding well below the 4k rpm range. Something to think about.....

 

[AMTJIM]

Gel cell problem stories have been popping up besides Spyder use, their intermittent behavior have lead techs to hair pulling. They have been passing load tests and getting re-installed. I was wondering if they get charged and tested vertically, then the failure occurs once installed horizontally, something is loose or shifts internally or actual use as opposed to test bench is the quirk of a gel cell.

 

[NancysToy]

I can't really say as I'm not well acquainted with any technology developed after 1970.

:roflblack: Story of my life! :roflblack:

 

[Trickie Dick]

You could be on to something.
GelCells are supposed to be position independent but who really knows how the Chinese are making them.

I can't really say as I'm not well acquainted with any technology developed after 1970.:dontknow:

The age of Aquarius. Great year:thumbup: No wonder you don't remember anything after that:roflblack:

 

[RGVSpyderGirl]

Gel Cell?

You guys are confusing me again. The dealer mentioned that the Spyders come with 'acid' already in the battery. When they replaced my battery, they replaced it with one where they added the acid then charged it to 100% before installing. Do some of you have gel cell batteries because I obviously don't.:dontknow:

 

[Mr. White]

You guys are confusing me again. The dealer mentioned that the Spyders come with 'acid' already in the battery. When they replaced my battery, they replaced it with one where they added the acid then charged it to 100% before installing. Do some of you have gel cell batteries because I obviously don't.:dontknow:

I have never seen my battery and do not know if it is gel, but suspect it is. I plug my battery tenders in my scoots and riding mower 24/7. I told you the plug adapter to use and I think you ordered it. IF the dealer has the connections tight on your battery, plug it in and leave it pluged in.....it will not hurt the battery as the tender will adjust its charging to the battery condition. Many do not subscribe to this charging regimen, but I do and have not had a "no start due to battery" in many years. This is what I do and won't change my way of doing it....!! It works for me. :clap:

:spyder2:

 

[boborgera]

You guys are confusing me again. The dealer mentioned that the Spyders come with 'acid' already in the battery. When they replaced my battery, they replaced it with one where they added the acid then charged it to 100% before installing. Do some of you have gel cell batteries because I obviously don't.:dontknow:

Your battery is a GEL, There is no Spyder with an acid battery, The Spyder's battery sits on it's side acid will drip out :yikes:

 

[NancysToy]

Spyder batteries are are of the VRLA (Valev-Regulate Lead-Acid) type. These are sealed batteries, which can be mounted in any position. There are two types, AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) and Gel Cell. Both types contain acid which is held between the plates by the glass mat or gelled media. I'm quite sure that at least the early Spyder batteries were gel cell. They needed to be prepared by the dealer, with acid added, left upright to gell, then charged overnight. I think the newer ones come ready for use, but I cannot be certain. At any rate, a properly prepared VRLA battery can be installed on its side. A vented, flooded-plate (conventional) lead acid battery cannot. It also will not work long on its side, with the plates exposed, and will leak through the vents.

 

[AMTJIM]

Is this the dawning of the age of gelarius?

 

[boborgera]

Those who can remember the sixties never really lived them.

I remember the 60's well, I did lose 65,66, and most of 67.[ Domino Theory.]:shocked:

 

[RGVSpyderGirl]

I have never seen my battery and do not know if it is gel, but suspect it is. I plug my battery tenders in my scoots and riding mower 24/7. I told you the plug adapter to use and I think you ordered it. IF the dealer has the connections tight on your battery, plug it in and leave it pluged in.....it will not hurt the battery as the tender will adjust its charging to the battery condition. Many do not subscribe to this charging regimen, but I do and have not had a "no start due to battery" in many years. This is what I do and won't change my way of doing it....!! It works for me. :clap:

:spyder2:

Actually the plug adapter you recommended DID NOT work. I returned it.

 

[RGVSpyderGirl]

At last -- someone makes sense!

Spyder batteries are are of the VRLA (Valev-Regulate Lead-Acid) type. These are sealed batteries, which can be mounted in any position. There are two types, AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) and Gel Cell. Both types contain acid which is held between the plates by the glass mat or gelled media. I'm quite sure that at least the early Spyder batteries were gel cell. They needed to be prepared by the dealer, with acid added, left upright to gell, then charged overnight. I think the newer ones come ready for use, but I cannot be certain. At any rate, a properly prepared VRLA battery can be installed on its side. A vented, flooded-plate (conventional) lead acid battery cannot. It also will not work long on its side, with the plates exposed, and will leak through the vents.

Since the dealer told me they added acid, your explanation makes sense. I'll ask them next time I'm there which battery I have. Thank you.

 

[SpydherLuv]

Very informative and enlightening thread.....I have a 2011 RT-S SE and experienced a Low Voltage warning as I arrived to work this morning. I bought her on 8/16/11 and pretty much ridden every day since. I went on a long ryde yesterday with a group of folks and had no issues whatsoever - she started up fine and ran fine, all day. When I started out from my garage this morning, everything was normal - again, started up fine, and ran fine all the way to work (approx 10 miles).
After reading SpyderFun's post, I thought that perhaps I inadvertantly drained the battery because I've been trying to get better gas mileage by shifting at around the 4,000 RPM range; however, I did drive the freeway this morning for approx 8 minutes at around 4,500-5,000+ RPMs. So even though I was driving under 4,000 RPMs, it was for a short time and I really don't believe it should have drained that fast....or could it have?
One side note here is that I installed the HMT LED light a few days ago, but I would think that even if there were a drain somewhere, there would have been some kind of sign before today.
I'll be calling my dealer in an hour when they open and see if they'll come to my place of work and replace my battery. :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

The first thing to check in this situation is that the battery connections (at the battery, nit the jumper terminals under the seat) are clean and tight. Beyond that, the dealer needs to do some testing, unless you are capable. Unless you are using both heated grips and a lot of electrical accessories, your rpm should be sufficient if you ride a reasonable amount of time between starts.

 

[SpydherLuv]

Thanks Scotty, I'll check the connections first - but would it act like the battery were draining when I try to start if a loose connection were indeed the cause? I would think that I would get a few clicks, but not what appears to be a draining battery.

Also, if memory serves me correctly (I'm not at my spyder right now), there seems to be a panel that needs to be removed in order to get to the battery terminals, is this correct?

Here is a short video I took this morning of how the :spyder2: acted:

 

[SpydherLuv]

Just went out and I loosened, then tightened the battery connections. The negative bolt seemed like it took me more turns to tighten then when I loosened, but it's nice and tight now. Tried to start and am getting the same results, so gonna need to get a jump start.
My fuel light came on this morning too and I was planning to gas up after work, but now I'm going to have to try to make it home without fueling up since I would have to turn the motor off to gas up. I hope she gets me home without any issues. ray:

 

[NancysToy]

If you have a Battery Tender or the equivalent, charge the battery fully, then let it sit for a few hours to overnight. The voltage should remain above 12.4 volts. After fully charging, then resting, try thiese tests if you have a volt-ohm meter. While cranking the starter with the throttle wide open (WOT), so the Spyder soesn't actually start, the battery voltage should remain above 10.0 volts. If it fails either test, the battery is bad. Your dealer can perform a proper load test if need be.

 

[Mr. White]

Actually the plug adapter you recommended DID NOT work. I returned it.

I am sorry if you got the wrong plug. The photos are not real clear. It is the one that connects to the Battery Tender and has a cigarette plug on the end...I plug it into the trunk plug and it works fine. Perhaps call the company and they can help you. Again, I am sorry to cause you the trouble.

http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-product/power-cables/PWRCBL

This is the Powerlet web site. Perhaps you can find the proper cable.


:spyder2:

 

[FrankPa]

Dealer went above & beyond...

1) When I picked up my 2011 RT-S at Blackman's in Emaus, PA, they had already installed a two-prong battery charger lead which lays curled up by the battery because "the termianls are tough to get to and we always want to make sure the terminals are tight when we deliver the bike."

2) If you remember college in the early '70's... you weren't having a good time!