My Radiator Broke

[sabunim5]

When I returned from the Maggie Valley Owners Event it was time for my 24k mile service. When I turned the drain bolt to remove it from the radiator it came off in my hand. :yikes: I was shocked to say the least. I had not applied any serious force at all :dontknow:. The entire threads just peeled away from the radiator cleanly and completely. The drain bolt was there, and you could still see the anti seize compound that I had applied to the threads at the 12k mile interval. I was concerned that if the bolt and the radiator were not the same metal there would be a tendency for them to grow together and I did not want a problem at the next service interval. I have the extended warranty so I had the Spyder towed to Pensacola Motorsports for radiator replacement. I had every confidence that the radiator would be covered under that warranty. Today I was told that the replacement would not be covered as the damage had been done by me and not the dealer. :gaah: I will appeal that decision. The bolt was torqued to the BRP spec and a new O-ring was installed at the 12k mile service. As a precautionary measure I also applied anti seize compound to the drain bolt threads. No excessive force was used in an attempt to remove the drain bolt. The threads come off easily and suddenly. I have to believe that there was a defect in materials and or workmanship for this to happen. No one that I know of has ever posted this sort of problem so I have to believe it is unique. I'll let you know what BRP's final decision is.

 

[ARtraveler]

I don't have the answer here--but someone will come on with help. Hope this works out for you. Keep us posted. opcorn:opcorn:

 

[boborgera]

Anti Seize And aluminum Don't mix. It will eat away aluminum.

 

[NancysToy]

Anti Seize And aluminum Don't mix. It will eat away aluminum.

:agree: Especially with contact of unlike metals (ferrous fasteners).

 

[Marker]

Anti Seize And aluminum Don't mix. It will eat away aluminum.

I am not saying that you are wrong in my reply so please do not be offended, you may know something that the rest of us don't . I have used and still use "PERMATEX" Anti-seize and i just read the label and instructions to be sure and the label says"safe for all metal parts exposed to extreme temperatures. The label does not exclude aluminum specifically.
This post caught my attention as I use this anti-seize on all my small engine parts including ones made from aluminum. The part No. listed on my bottle is #133H.

The rad in question looks like it failed due to poor workmanship and or design flaw how the drain plug fits into the threads. Do they make better aftermarket rads with one piece threads? and better cooling ability?

 

[NancysToy]

I am not saying that you are wrong in my reply so please do not be offended, you may know something that the rest of us don't . I have used and still use "PERMATEX" Anti-seize and i just read the label and instructions to be sure and the label says"safe for all metal parts exposed to extreme temperatures. The label does not exclude aluminum specifically.
This post caught my attention as I use this anti-seize on all my small engine parts including ones made from aluminum. The part No. listed on my bottle is #133H.

The rad in question looks like it failed due to poor workmanship and or design flaw how the drain plug fits into the threads. Do they make better aftermarket rads with one piece threads? and better cooling ability?

Some brands of anti-seize cause severe corrosion, and some don't seem to. Even a moly grease can start corrosion on aluminum/ferrous joints. Never-seize is bad as far as alloy corrosion goes. I have never tried the Permatex brand. It may be worth a try.

 

[sabunim5]

I will check the anti seize container, but I am pretty sure it was safe for aluminum. The amount of force used to attempt removal of the drain bolt was very minimal. It should not have been nearly enough force to cause separation of the threads and their base from the radiator body. The anti seize was on the threads and the bolt but none was on the area of the radiator wall where the thread base sheered off. There is no evidence of corrosion in the area of separation and there was no anti seize there either. I am not a professional mechanic, but my friend that helps me with Spyder service is, and he suggested and provided the anti seize for the 12k mile service. I have been wrenching long enough to know that what I did should not have caused what happened. I do appreciate the feedback. :bowdown: Keep it coming.

 

[Lamonster]

Sorry you had this problem, I don't think it was from your anti seize.

If it were me I would take it to your local radiator repair shop and have them weld it back up and flush it while they're at it.

 

[boborgera]

I am not saying that you are wrong in my reply so please do not be offended, you may know something that the rest of us don't . I have used and still use "PERMATEX" Anti-seize and i just read the label and instructions to be sure and the label says"safe for all metal parts exposed to extreme temperatures. The label does not exclude aluminum specifically.
This post caught my attention as I use this anti-seize on all my small engine parts including ones made from aluminum. The part No. listed on my bottle is #133H.

The rad in question looks like it failed due to poor workmanship and or design flaw how the drain plug fits into the threads. Do they make better aftermarket rads with one piece threads? and better cooling ability?

Na, no offence' I have a package of Permatex and your RIGHT it says you can use it on aluminum cylinder heads :thumbup: The reason i said it doesn't mix Is i used this on the center hubs of my Aluminum wheels [Dodge] so they wouldn't seize' and with in a few weeks it ate away at the aluminum [etched]:dontknow:

 

[sabunim5]

When I took the Spyder to Pensacola Motorsports I told them to order a new radiator and that I would pay for it if BRP did not honor my warranty claim. At that time I had every confidence that BRP/BEST would come through. They tell me the cost of the new radiator is about $250. :yikes: I have filed an appeal of the "not covered" initial decision and am waiting to hear about that. When this happened, I had just changed the oil. Those two drain plugs are torqued to 15 and 17 ft/lbs. I did not use nearly the force that it took to remove them when the radiator came apart. The torque specified for the radiator drain plug is 18 ft/lbs and we reduced that slightly because of the anti seize. If I really thought that anything I did had caused the problem I would not have filed a claim.

 

[Euripedes Neves]

radiator?

Sorry you had this problem, I don't think it was from your anti seize.

If it were me I would take it to your local radiator repair shop and have them weld it back up and flush it while they're at it.

I have a leak on the baton of my oil radiator, my spyder is 2008 rs w/ 35,500 mls i boudat it new 16 months ago. i am not sure if i still on warrant but, i wander if i have to replace the radiator or if is able to repair, the leak is osmoll. any one can help me?:dontknow:

 

[Euripedes Neves]

When I took the Spyder to Pensacola Motorsports I told them to order a new radiator and that I would pay for it if BRP did not honor my warranty claim. At that time I had every confidence that BRP/BEST would come through. They tell me the cost of the new radiator is about $250. :yikes: I have filed an appeal of the "not covered" initial decision and am waiting to hear about that. When this happened, I had just changed the oil. Those two drain plugs are torqued to 15 and 17 ft/lbs. I did not use nearly the force that it took to remove them when the radiator came apart. The torque specified for the radiator drain plug is 18 ft/lbs and we reduced that slightly because of the anti seize. If I really thought that anything I did had caused the problem I would not have filed a claim.

I holp you get a break, and i going to see what i can do about my oil radiator. good look.

 

[dschaub]

Radiator Broke

Sorry you had this problem, I don't think it was from your anti seize.

If it were me I would take it to your local radiator repair shop and have them weld it back up and flush it while they're at it.

I had the exact same thing happen when i tried to drain my radiator, the drain plug and flange completely seperated from the radiator. The dealer wanted $300.00 for a new one. I found a radiator shop that welded aluminum and repaired for $72.00 *** NOTE *** my advise to all spyder owners if you need to drain your radiator do not touch the drain plug, pull the lower hose off, its very easy to do, you will need to replace the hose clamp, the OEM clamps are crimped on so a small dremel cut off wheel will be needed, another easy task. The OEM drain plug flange appears to be only pressed in, bad design. I have a 2008 w/ 20,000 miles so maybe newer ones are different, again do not touch the drain plug !!!

 

[BajaRon]

Sorry you had this problem, I don't think it was from your anti seize.

If it were me I would take it to your local radiator repair shop and have them weld it back up and flush it while they're at it.

I agree. It appears that the threads are actually a flange that is pressed or otherwise attached (not very well) to the radiator as a separate part. There isn't anything wrong with the radiator or the threads, you just need to reattach the flange and you'll be good to go.

I'll bet the same thing would have happened to a shop mechanic, but since you did the twisting (both on and off) they are probably within their perview to deny warranty.

 

[Firefly]

I had the exact same thing happen when i tried to drain my radiator, the drain plug and flange completely seperated from the radiator. The dealer wanted $300.00 for a new one. I found a radiator shop that welded aluminum and repaired for $72.00 *** NOTE *** my advise to all spyder owners if you need to drain your radiator do not touch the drain plug, pull the lower hose off, its very easy to do, you will need to replace the hose clamp, the OEM clamps are crimped on so a small dremel cut off wheel will be needed, another easy task. The OEM drain plug flange appears to be only pressed in, bad design. I have a 2008 w/ 20,000 miles so maybe newer ones are different, again do not touch the drain plug !!!

Good advice.....:thumbup:

 

[dliszews]

Does BRP know what QC stands for?

 

[johnwinslow]

I have Owned My 2011 rts for 1 year now, always do my own wrenching' so went out and looked at the radiator drain plug, it is "A" typical poorly attached
"stay away from the plug" ladies and gentlemen !!!! stay away from the plug.

 

[oldgoat]

Does BRP know what QC stands for?

Quebec !

 

[Marker]

Quebec !

Hey, that was my answer! :joke::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[dliszews]

Quebec !

Sadly, you are probably right,,,,except they would spell it wrong:banghead: