Can't Get That Song Outta My Head

[NancysToy]

Spent the last few days doing the 3,000 mile service and doing some mods on my RTS and my RT-622. First I installed an Easter Beaver 3CS switched fuse block.

I then removed the temporary Gerbing power outlet from the dash, and installed a couple of Powerlets.

The next mod was the best. I finally installed the Starcom1 on the Rouge Rocket. Nancy and I have been doing a lot of two-up riding lately, and we sure missed our intercom.

This part makes it the best. I used a PAC SNI-35 Hi-Lo converter to attach to the rear speaker wires. The output was run to the Starcom1, integrating the Spyder audio into our helmets. I finally have my tunes back in my head. :2thumbs: The wind noise and the high volume necessary for the external audio to be heard on the highway were just not getting it for me. A great thing is that I can change songs and adjust the volume from the handlebar.

The RT-622 got a Tongue Stand, Cargo Management Kit, an Load Stabilizer blocks. Sorry, no pictures yet...I ran out of daylight.

Maggie Valley, here we come, with a song in our hearts, smiles on our faces, and a red Caboose following along behind.

 

[fastfraser]

:thumbup: Great post Scotty . Going to pick your brain on the Tunes in your helmet mod .

 

[NancysToy]

:thumbup: Great post Scotty . Going to pick your brain on the Tunes in your helmet mod .

Phil was the one that told me how to do it. His brain is a better one to pick. I am a good wrench, but an audio klutz.

 

[Spyder Cat]

:2thumbs: Fun stuff! Congrats on successful installs. Even more smiles to the miles. :yes: :yes:

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Scotty, what did you use to cut the holes for your powerlets?

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty, what did you use to cut the holes for your powerlets?

11/16" hole saw. ACE Hardware carries them, or you can borrow mine.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Thanks Scotty. We'll pick one up at Ace

 

[Bootie]

Starcom 1

Great post Scotty:clap:
I had the Cardo Unit but the first time I got caught in the rain, the Cardo crapped out:cus:I then talked to Tajon (Tim/Annemarie) at Spyderfest and they showed me their Starcom 1 unit. I was impressed and purchased mine after I got back.:2thumbs: It's nice because the main amplifier mounts under the seat and is out of the weather.
The only mishap I had while installing the electrics, was when I put my Impact Driver on the +12V terminal to tighten the nut. I kenw I shouldent do that but I was lazy. Well a few Braaappppps later I had twisted the bolt in two. Oops:cus::cus: I had forgotten that that mounting bolt was made of copper and couldn't take much abuse.:gaah: Oh well, live and learn.

 

[dancogan]

Phil was the one that told me how to do it. His brain is a better one to pick. I am a good wrench, but an audio klutz.

Phil! Calling Phil to the white courtesy phone. We need more details on how the rear speakers can be tapped and used as input to the Starcom.

Phil ... are you there?

Great post, Scotty. Do you have a spare for the trailer yet?

 

[Marker]

Nice job Scotty :thumbup: I am learning so much from people like you
Thanks:clap:

 

[NancysToy]

Phil! Calling Phil to the white courtesy phone. We need more details on how the rear speakers can be tapped and used as input to the Starcom.

Phil ... are you there?

Great post, Scotty. Do you have a spare for the trailer yet?

No spare...Ride-On. Also have a Stop-N-Go and compressor.

The PAC SNI-35 Hi-Lo converter was pretty easy, but I had to extend the wires to reach the left speaker. Some converters have longer wires for one side. It also takes an RCA to 3.5 mm stereo adapter cable to connect the converter to the Starcom1. There are different lengths available, depending on where you mount the components. I put my converter in the right speaker housing. Had to notch the flanges to allow the wires to pass. It was easier than my audio challenged brain expected.

 

[dancogan]

No spare...Ride-On. Also have a Stop-N-Go and compressor.

The PAC SNI-35 Hi-Lo converter was pretty easy, but I had to extend the wires to reach the left speaker. Some converters have longer wires for one side. It also takes an RCA to 3.5 mm stereo adapter cable to connect the converter to the Starcom1. There are different lengths available, depending on where you mount the components. I put my converter in the right speaker housing. Had to notch the flanges to allow the wires to pass. It was easier than my audio challenged brain expected.

Thank you! I'll pm you with other questions.

 

[bobbobtar]

Scotty,
I also have a Easter Beaver 3CS switched fuse block, and am wondering were you mounted it and were you ran the trigger wire.

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty,
I also have a Eastern Beaver 3CS switched fuse block, and am wondering were you mounted it and were you ran the trigger wire.

I mounted it in the recess above the 15 amp line fuse, near the positive battery terminal. I picked up the switched power for the relay from the feed to the light in the passenger heated grip control (Light Green/Gray). Similar installation on my 2010. You have to remove the left side panel to get access, but I have never had to replace a fuse anyway.

 

[sinkhole]

aux fuse panel...

I just installed the Eastern Beaver PC-8 panel on my RT with a Corbin seat. The Corbin seat has a recess in the bottom of the pan where the seat back mechanism is located, and this provided a perfect place to mount the panel. I kept the main fuse and relay in the area behind the battery, under the cover plate.