Soft Oil Plug

[MarkLawson]

Screwed up my oil drain plug (oil tank, not engine) tonight because I didn't fully insert the 6mm hex wrench before I tried to remove it. It was half way in, which is pretty deep, but the wrench just turned in the bolt while the bolt didn't budge. This is the 2nd oil change on the RT & the first by me. I guess the dealer really tightened it down when they did the first oil change. Anyway, I then pounded the wrench all the way in and found that it just twisted again without moving the bolt. Dang.

I bought a cheap hand pump from Harbor Freight & was able to pump the oil out of the tank without much trouble.

Fortunately, the engine oil drain plug had no problems, so I was able to complete the oil change.

I have now ordered a set of the Gold Plug drain plugs mentioned in a thread sometime back. ( http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23611&highlight=oil+drain+plug ) In fact, I ordered two sets so I can replace the OEM on my wife's '08 GS too.

Just be aware that the drain plug is pretty soft material & should be handled with care.

Now I have to figure out how to get that stupid drain plug out when it comes time to change the oil again. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

 

[clueless]

you will probably have to drill it out...

small drill bit smaller then the width of the plug (not the threads)... then use a bit kit from Home Depot like this

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Grabit-Broken-Extractor/dp/B000Q60UOO/ref=pd_cp_hi_3[/ame]

 

[ameobe]

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

I JB Welded the wrench to the plug, came right out the next day.:thumbup:

 

[MarkLawson]

I like both suggestions & may give them a try - probably the JB Weld suggestion first. I'd rather not take a drill to it if I can avoid it for fear of getting some metal filings in the oil tank. If the JB Weld doesn't work out, I can try the drilling next...

Thanks for your responses!

 

[Lamonster]

You can take a chisel to the outside edge and break it loose too.

 

[Dudley]

A suggestion for future plug removals. I have a 3/8 ratchet and Allen socket and an 8" cheater pipe extension. The effort to "break" the plug is minimal. Use the pipe only to break the plug, not tighten it!

 

[boborgera]

You can take a chisel to the outside edge and break it loose too.

:agree:
Thats the technique i use also, Especially on my ATV's. They tend to get pounded pretty hard.
I've even removed striped[rounded] lug nuts that way.:thumbup:

 

[clueless]

I like both suggestions & may give them a try - probably the JB Weld suggestion first. I'd rather not take a drill to it if I can avoid it for fear of getting some metal filings in the oil tank. If the JB Weld doesn't work out, I can try the drilling next...

Thanks for your responses!

you actually dont have to fully drill it out just to start the removal bit... and then you use the removal drill bit which is reverse threaded so it tightens in as you are unscrewing the bolt...

 

[MarkLawson]

Thanks guys!

 

[Bob Denman]

I think that I need a drink after reading about all of this carnage... :shocked:
(Note to self: order replacement drain plugs P.D.Q.!)

 

[M2Wild]

I like both suggestions & may give them a try - probably the JB Weld suggestion first. I'd rather not take a drill to it if I can avoid it for fear of getting some metal filings in the oil tank. If the JB Weld doesn't work out, I can try the drilling next...

Thanks for your responses!

I wonder if you have enough space to latch a vise-grip onto the skirt of the spent plug. I bet that will let you twist it right off.

Dealer looooves to crank those parts on tight just to make sure if you ever decide to do it yourself, you are gonna have a heck of a time trying to get it loose.:cus:

 

[NancysToy]

Dealer looooves to crank those parts on tight just to make sure if you ever decide to do it yourself, you are gonna have a heck of a time trying to get it loose.:cus:

Maybe yes, maybe no. It is the nature of copper washers that they compress when torqued, increasing the amount of torque needed to remove them...much like Loctite. It is also the nature of steel fasteners (and plugs) installed into alloy threads (like crankcases), that they become locked in by differential thermal expansion, and become harder to remove. That is why case screws need impact drivers or T-handles for removal. They go in easily and come out with more difficulty.

 

[Bob Denman]

Are my High School science class memories still intact enough to have remembered that when you screw something steel into an alloy crankcase, cathodic corrosion can make things miserable come disassembly-time?:dontknow::hun:

 

[M2Wild]

Maybe yes, maybe no. It is the nature of copper washers that they compress when torqued, increasing the amount of torque needed to remove them...much like Loctite.

All I know is whenever I bring my vehicles in for a complete / major service, the oil filter and plugs are twice as tight when I try to remove them the following time.

 

[MarkLawson]

I figured the plug is a softer material so that if something gets cross-threaded, the damage is to the cheap plug rather than the expensive oil tank or engine case.

Just seems a little too soft in my opinion. But, I am the guy with the wrench only half way in before I began trying to loosen the plug, so I am the one who did the damage.

 

[NorthStar]

I hear your pain

I agree, the RT's oil tank and engine oil drain plug heads were a tad soft, and I fought with them on my first oil change. There definitely was a bit of slippage during the fight and I decided to place an order for the Gold Plugs before my next oil change. I have found these new plugs much easier to work with than the OEM plugs. :2thumbs:

 

[Roger]

Before you try any of these things go buy your self a torq wrench with the correct lbs so when you reinstall the plugs. then next time it should not be so hard?

 

[Pandy]

Corrosion

I agree with the cathodic corrosion scenario. Seen that any number of times. A tad bit of moly 60 or anti-seize seems to prevent this. Any screw that I torque gets a dab of moly. Saved me more than once. But nothing can save you from a monkey fisted tech.

Patrick

 

[boborgera]

I agree with the cathodic corrosion scenario. Seen that any number of times. A tad bit of moly 60 or anti-seize seems to prevent this. Any screw that I torque gets a dab of moly. Saved me more than once. But nothing can save you from a monkey fisted tech.

Patrick

Anti-seeize will damage aluminum, I ruined a set of rim's with it.

 

[NancysToy]

Anti-seeize will damage aluminum, I ruined a set of rim's with it.

:agree: