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Plastic removal frustration

2manycars

New member
Every time I do any work on my RT it seems I break at least one tab. I tried to tighten the mirrors and got to the part that says "pull down on the bottom of the mirror." I pulled down, and immediately snapped off the tab holding the bottom plastic to the mirror assembly.

Why on a 30K machine is it such a pain to access everything, and why must three or four panels be removed to get to almost any part of the machine?

I had a Honda Silverwing 650 scooter prior to this, and yes there was a lot of plastic, but at least I didn't break a plastic tab every tim eI did any work on it!

Has anyone come up with a logical chart to disassemble and assemble all of the plastic body panels on the RT without breaking a part every time I do so?

By the way other than the lousy MPG, I still love the RT-broken plastic and all!
 
I've had my panels off more than most and have yet to break any plastic but I known that day is coming on those mirrors. nojoke
 
On the mirrors, you must pull the bottom out, not down. Then lift the mirror to detach. Try using Syl Glyde on all your pins and grommets for ease of removal.
 
I do the oil changes on my RT and just kinda give it a good eye when I do to see if anything is leaking, etc. I have never had to remove the mirrors to change the oil. It can easily be done.
 
Right there with you 2many & Lamonster. I have yet to break anything, but I do know my day is coming as well. This is exactly why I suggested that one of our vendors put together a 'o crap I broke/lost ___' kit that we can buy.
 
This is exactly why I suggested that one of our vendors put together a 'o crap I broke/lost ___' kit that we can buy.

:2thumbs: Great idea :thumbup::thumbup: Maybe something on the lines of the HELP line at most Auto parts stores?
 
Right there with you 2many & Lamonster. I have yet to break anything, but I do know my day is coming as well. This is exactly why I suggested that one of our vendors put together a 'o crap I broke/lost ___' kit that we can buy.
'O Crap Kit

Body screws
Plastic rivets
Oil change O-rings
Drain plugs
Brake light bulbs (RS)
Rubber grommets (RT)
Mirror inserts (although I have never broken one)
Touch-up paint (added 2/28/11)
Relays (added 3/3/11)
Fuses (added 3/3/11)
Maxi-fuses (added 3/3/11)

What else?

Dehydrated fuel tablet...just add water? :joke:
 
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'O Crap Kit


What else?

Dehydrated fuel tablet...just add water? :joke:

I already have the tablet, But i don't have room for the 6 gal. of water to mix with the tablet. :roflblack: Besides did you ever see the size of one of those tablets?:yikes:
 
I have a supply of the plastic inserts for the mirrors.

I get about 3 removals before I break the tabs.
It is disappointing that the mirrors were engineered that way.


Where did you buy your supply of plastic inserts for the mirrors. The only way I have found them was to buy the whole ass`y. I have not broke any yet to my supprise but I would love to have a few extra on hand when I do.
 
'O Crap Kit

Body screws
Plastic rivets
Oil change O-rings
Drain plugs
Brake light bulbs (RS)
Rubber grommets (RT)
Mirror inserts (although I have never broken one)

What else?

Dehydrated fuel tablet...just add water? :joke:
Touch up paint

My major complaint with the mirror mounting system is the fact that they vibrate way too much.

I just had my mirrors off and when I put them back on I noticed one was pretty loose compared to the other, I pulled them both back off and adjusted the steel clips and now they are good and tight. :doorag:
 
Touch up paint



I just had my mirrors off and when I put them back on I noticed one was pretty loose compared to the other, I pulled them both back off and adjusted the steel clips and now they are good and tight. :doorag:
Good call! I'll add it to the list.

I did the same thing on my RTS a couple of times. Lubricating the pins with a minute amount of plastic compatible lube helps prevent bending the steel wires as quickly, too.
 
mirrors...

Check to see that they are snapped in place tightly on both snaps. Mine did not vibrate, unless a snap was not fastened.
Scotty, mine are all snapped and they still vibrate slightly. As the pins are non-adjustable, I've thought about installing a small "o" ring over the pins to see if that would take up some of the slack. A test for tomorrow. ;)
 
Scotty, mine are all snapped and they still vibrate slightly. As the pins are non-adjustable, I've thought about installing a small "o" ring over the pins to see if that would take up some of the slack. A test for tomorrow. ;)
Take a look at the wire portions of the mirror end of the fasteners, too. As Lamont said, several of us have found them bent apart from each other or bowed outward (from the mirror). Either (or both) will let them wiggle more than they should. They bend back, if done carefully, but they will eventually bend again. Let us know how the O-rings work out.
 
Take a look at the wire portions of the mirror end of the fasteners, too. As Lamont said, several of us have found them bent apart from each other or bowed outward (from the mirror). Either (or both) will let them wiggle more than they should. They bend back, if done carefully, but they will eventually bend again. Let us know how the O-rings work out.
I removed the wire clip assemblies apart last night and the clips were spread open. I re-bent the wires and reinstalled them. I also applied some wax to the pins and springs which helped re-installing the mirrors. It seems that now most of the motion is coming from the top slide connection.

I realized after I removed the mirrors that you really can't use an "O" ring on the snap pins, but may be able to install one on the top slide to tighten that up a bit.
 
mirrors...

I just removed one mirror and installed an "O" ring on the top pin. This did take the up/down play out of the mirror. :clap:
I only had one "O" ring of the correct size, so if this seems to have helped when I ride tomorrow, I'll install one on the other side.
 
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