Hiring Tow for My RT-S

[SilverSurfer]

Hi gang ...

In the next week or two I'm going to be taking my RT-S up to north Baltimore County (25 miles from my house) to have it's DPS recall done ... and while at it have them fix my leaking hoses that have antifreeze as a result of the cold snap (this needs to be a BRP recall). Unfortunately, the temps are ranging (currently) in the 20s to 30s. Pretty much closed on getting the Spyder trucked/towed up to the dealership. I'll hire one of those rigs with the hydraulic beds.

QUESTION:

1. What are the favored tie-down points for the Spyder to avoid damage when the lift bed angles up to pull the Spyder up onto the truck (same for letting her down).

2. I know a guy in my Blue Knights Chapter who owns one of those lift-bed rigs similar to the one pictured in this video:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ywZz5qnvCw&feature=fvw[/ame].


I'd appreciate comments from thos in the know on where to tie down the front and rear of my RT-S on this type of rig.

Thanks

 

[boborgera]

QUESTION:

1. What are the favored tie-down points for the Spyder to avoid damage when the lift bed angles up to pull the Spyder up onto the truck (same for letting her down).

:thumbup:
Go's in backwards. [rear wheel forward] Tie Downs through the rims not on the suspension.

 

[Oldmanzues]

The lift in the vid looks good. It appears to hooked to the plafform and the whole plalform moves.

I moved my GS/RS and now my RT on a "landscape trailer" with a plank floor. I unhooked the trailer from the truck and used the front jack to the highest point, lowed the ramps and rode it slowly on (use something to support the back of the trailer or it will rear up) (also block the trailer wheels). The big problem is the angle of the ramp. And I have no idea of the vehicles you are talking about.
I would be concerned about wind damage, hauling it backwards, Maybe that just me.

You even check to see if they have a "pick up service" . I know several dealers that do so for a reasonable price.

Godd Luck and Ride Safe.

OldManZues

 

[NancysToy]

There are towing and tie-down instructions in your Owners Guide, including pictures. The rig in your video looks like it would do a splendid job.

 

[dancogan]

I would be concerned about wind damage, hauling it backwards, Maybe that just me.

I agree. I would be worried about wind force pushing against the windshield in the opposite direction of what it was designed for. If it had to go on the rig backwards then I would take off the w/s.

 

[fastfraser]

With that kind of lift and tow rig your Spyder is going to be sitting pretty high up and with that much windshield facing back wards catching a whole lot of wind force . I would be very concerned !

 

[MMcc]

flat bed tow

I towed my:spyder2: all the way from MN to CA. I did not like the back to front arrangement so I modified my ramps and loaded it front first. I tied it down using automotive tie down straps through the wheel rims in an X fashion, back wheel to front attachment points and front wheels to back attachments. The tie downs had protective sleeves that kept the webbing from causing any damage to the wheels. Did not have any problems. The back wheel did slip sideways so next time I will use 2 straps for that, one each way. Make sure that the rear strap only goes through the wheel and not the wheel and belt sprocket as the ratchet tension could damage the sprocket:lecturef_smilie:.

 

[Bob Denman]

Scotty's right. (AGAIN!:thumbup The manual has some pretty clear instructions in it. From what I remember...(Mine is in the bike) You throw some straps around the upper A-arms, hook them together out in front of the bike, and then hook your "drag it in place" strap to them. I'd load it facing forward for the same reasons already mentioned about the windshield...
Tie-downs... whatever you can get in a place that isn't going to leave a mark in the bodywork... I'd use the A-arms up front and through the rear tire out back. (With maybe something on both sides of the swingarm to keep the rear from shifting laterally.
Good luck!

 

[retread]

I've trailered my Spyder quite a bit, not because it's broke, it just isn't big enough to carry what I need at the construction sites I where I tend to end up.
Your tie downs need to go through the wheels, as close to directly in front of the front wheels, and directly behind the rear wheel, with pads on the rims to prevent scuffing. Use the shortest strap you can fit in the front, and a ratchet strap in the back, and set the parking brake before you tighten the front straps. Release the brake and get the rear strap tight enough to hum, then reset the brake. Check after about 5 miles and when you stop for gas and you should be okay.

john

 

[Lamonster]

:agree:
When I do tow I tie through the wheels and it's a good idea to put a soft rag or something so you don't scuff the rims.

 

[boborgera]

The reason i said to put the Spyder in rear wheel first, is because if your going to use the rig that's shone in the video the nose [trunk] will hit the stop, also it has an single wheel chock up front. :dontknow:

 

[NancysToy]

Tie-downs... whatever you can get in a place that isn't going to leave a mark in the bodywork... I'd use the A-arms up front and through the rear tire out back. (With maybe something on both sides of the swingarm to keep the rear from shifting laterally.
Good luck!

Do not tie down to the A-arms! You will damage the suspension!!! Tie-downs to the grab rails will damage or break them. Spyders should be tied down through the wheels...period. Microfiber towels make good pads where the straps go through the wheels. If towed backwards, the windshield should be removed. They can break...and have broken for others that have posted here.