SE5 no upshift and no downshift when engine is cold

[SpydermanCT]

I have a 2010 RT-S SE5 with 200 miles on it. Service history shows Campaigns 2010-5, 6 & 7 were completed prior to delivery. So far almost every ride when the engine was cold the transmission will not shift from 1st-2nd. Finally will but will also not shift from 2nd -3rd. I noticed today when coming to a stop the trans did not auto downshift. After engine warms up problem is not there. The bike model number is 000A4AF00 which I believe would not be applicable to the 2010-0004 campaign. Has anyone run into this ? Obvious I need to get it into the dealer but I thought I'd throw it out to the professionals - you !

 

[docdoru]

http://www.analogx.com/CONTENTS/vinview.htm :thumbup:

 

[Dudley]

I had an 2008 SE5 before the RT. If your SE5 won't shift cold, and cold is relative, just let it warm up. I don't think the Spyder has a problem. The SE5 needs the oil to be well circulated to work smoothly. Be patient, life is to short to hurry.

 

[SpyderFun]

I have a 2010 RT-S SE5 with 200 miles on it. Service history shows Campaigns 2010-5, 6 & 7 were completed prior to delivery......

Because the SE trans uses oil for shifting AND the fact there have been reports of deliveries from the factory with low oil levels, I would double check that 1st. Usually the simplest solutions are the answer. Let us know! :thumbup:

 

[SpydermanCT]

Hmmm.... I read the owners manual last night to figure out where the dip stick was and the proper procedure to check it. I started it up tonight to bring it out of the garage and and noticed a dime size spot of oil on the floor. Checked the oil level and it wasn't on the stick. Hope there isn't any damage after 146 miles. No warning lights or messages have displayed on the information screen. Great pre-delivery inspection !

 

[NancysToy]

Hmmm.... I read the owners manual last night to figure out where the dip stick was and the proper procedure to check it. I started it up tonight to bring it out of the garage and and noticed a dime size spot of oil on the floor. Checked the oil level and it wasn't on the stick. Hope there isn't any damage after 146 miles. No warning lights or messages have displayed on the information screen. Great pre-delivery inspection !

Oil level will usually not be on the stick when cold. The engine needs to be at full operating temperature (not just at the normal level on the water temp gauge), like after a ride. Dipstick has to be screwed in all the way. It is important to check the level properly and consistently. Be careful of the rubber grommets. Glue them in or you can lose a cover.

 

[SpydermanCT]

Oil level will usually not be on the stick when cold. The engine needs to be at full operating temperature (not just at the normal level on the water temp gauge), like after a ride. Dipstick has to be screwed in all the way. It is important to check the level properly and consistently. Be careful of the rubber grommets. Glue them in or you can lose a cover.

What I did was start the bike up and brought it outside of the garage. I let it run for 10-15 minutes. I drove it back in the garage and let it sit for just a few minutes. The engine was up to full operating temperature. I started the engine again, let it run for one minute, stopped the engine and then checked the oil. Based on your experiences is this an accurate procedure to follow. I tried to follow what was in the owners manual but your correct I did not really operate the transmission in my warm up procedure.

Page 122 in my owners manual states .....................

Engine Oil Level Verification​

NOTICE

​

​

​

​

​

​

To obtain a precise reading​

of the engine oil level, follow this

procedure and make sure engine is
at normal operating temperature.
​

​

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Remove the LH middle side panel.
Refer to ​

​

BODY section.​

3. With the engine already at normal

operating temperature, start engine

and let it run for at least 30 seconds.
​

NOTE: Running engine for at least​

30 seconds allows the suction oil

pump to drain the oil from the engine
crankcase back into the oil tank. Not
carrying out this step could result in
overfilling the engine oil.
4. Stop engine.​

​

​

5. Unscrew and remove the oil dipstick​

 

[NancysToy]

You definitely should have seen oil on the stick with the procedure you followed. However, the engine probably was not up to full operating temperature. Full operating temperature means that the oil and the metal have reached equilibrium, not just the water temperature. This is difficult to achieve without riding for that 10-15 minutes instead of idling in the driveway. It is difficult to achieve without engaging the transmission, and getting the gears hot, as well.

All that aside, given the method you used, your oil is probably low enough to affect the shifting of your transmission, especially when cold. The oil should have at least shown on the stick at that temp, although it would probably have been too high if at the top mark. It is hard to understand why the Spyder is so sensitive to oil level, since dry sump systems are not usually that way. I suspect it has to do with oil pump design and an inability to develop sufficient head pressure without the higher inlet head pressure. Add a little bit of oil, and see if shifting improves. Don't forget that the dipstick must be screwed in to obtain the correct reading...unlike most motorcycles.

 

[SpydermanCT]

Thank you Sir. I planned on stopping at my local dealer and picking up oil today. I'll add some oil to be sure I'm not dangerously low and take her out for a blast and recheck the levels as you have suggested. Hopefully I can resolve this by myself and a trip to the dealer will not be necessary.

I am a Parts and Service Director at a new car dealer and I can't tell you how impressed I am with this site. The people like yourself, the amount of facts and knowledge thats been compiled, it's incredible. I'm very excited about my purchase and I'm sure you guys will be able to educate me if any challenges that arise.

 

[Bob Denman]

Scotty is Da Man! :2thumbs: While everyone here is a wealth of information, he just always seems to be at the forefront with it... :thumbup:
Warming up the bike... Mine goes for at least a 10 mile jog before I start pulling bodywork and getting oily...

 

[SpydermanCT]

How about almost 2 quarts low. Great pre-delivery inspection at the dealer eh? With a capacity of a little over 4 quarts and running for awhile I hope I haven't caused any problems. It's shifting fine now that it has oil in it. I've noticed a ticking noise coming from the right side of the engine when its down shifting from 2nd to first. I might just be paranoid because of the chain of events. I'm so freaking green the only cover I'd had off is for the oil and I couldn't even tell you how the engine and transmission is mounted under there.

 

[Lamonster]

Glad you figured it out.

 

[johnnyg]

I had an 2008 SE5 before the RT. If your SE5 won't shift cold, and cold is relative, just let it warm up. I don't think the Spyder has a problem. The SE5 needs the oil to be well circulated to work smoothly. Be patient, life is to short to hurry.

I had the same thing happen to me this morning, Note temp was 39dg it would'nt shift to 2nd, I drove slow for another half mile an it worked fine after that. Just let it worm up alot more it should be fine.jc

 

[CyncySpyder]

Same problem

I've been having the same problem the last few days. Now, I think I may have killed the Spyder. Seems it's locked in 1st gear now & won't start cause it can't shift itself into neutral. So now its locked up & inside my garage :gaah:

I talked with the shop, & they gave me pointers on how to access the shift lever to try n shift into neutral by hand. :yikes: never done anything like this, so should be interesting. Any advice would be helpful, thanks :helpsmilie:

 

[MMcc]

Same problem

Cool morning. 42 in the desert. Spyder started but would not shift. Let it idle for a few minutes still nothing. Shut it off and reached under the tupperware and played with shift linkage by hand. Started the spyder again and shifted with not a problem. Not sure if I did anything by attempting to move the linkage or just letting it sit for a couple of minutes and then the restart. Will speak to dealer today but I don't expect any answers. ray:

 

[GaryTheBadger]

CyncySpyder, The owner's manual explains how to manually get the bike into neutral. It involves a wrench and reaching under the left side. Once you know where to put the wrench, its a five-second fix. I've never been able to do it without a wrench, can't get enough leverage with just my arm.

 

[CyncySpyder]

Thanks for the info

CyncySpyder, The owner's manual explains how to manually get the bike into neutral. It involves a wrench and reaching under the left side. Once you know where to put the wrench, its a five-second fix. I've never been able to do it without a wrench, can't get enough leverage with just my arm.

Thanks for the heads up Gary. As soon as I get off of work, that'll be my next job to tackle. Hopefully I can get'r going again & it's just a low oil issue. Tho, makes me wonder why it would go so low in just a week, as I check the oil every Sunday :dontknow: but it just may be since it's been so much colder lately :dontknow:

Fingers crossedopcorn: