Checking your Spyder's oil

[Coolbreeze]

oil change

I had to add about 1/2 quart of BRP oil between 3k miles scheduled services. At the 6k mark I switched to Bel Ray 0w40 after speaking to a Bel Ray engineer. Now, 1700 miles after the last oil change, the mark is just a tad under the fill line. I checked about 6 times in just as many days because I couldn't believe I wasn't using more oil than that. I'm happy.

 

[clueless]

Some of this information is very outdated. In the days of rough-honed, cast-iron cylinders, it was necessary to seat the rings before the cylinders glazed and prevented wearing the honing down smooth. The wrong oil, too little rpm and load, or even overheating, could cause glazing or even cylinder distortion. With the advent of honing plates, closer tolerances, fine honing stones, and moly filled rings, this became unnecessary...rings seated quickly on the polished cylinders, and a lack of wear was a desireable thing. With the Nikasil-plated cylinders on the Spyder, there is no cylinder glazing and no wear of the cylinder. Rings seat almost immediately.

Scotty,

This is the first I heard of this... do you have any sources on where to read up on this? I have never read anything before about new cylinders being used in motorcycle engines that allow for rings to seat almost immediately... I found this article - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil or moly filled rings? I see that the coating has been used for years in race engines and is a thin tough coating but you still need to seat the rings and they hone the surface just like any other cylinder to cause the rings to wear to a close as fit as possible.

just would like to learn about them... thanks :doorag:

the first 200 miles I beleive is key to seating the rings. after that the next 500 miles is some what key ... after that not much you get what you got after that

 

[Rider Steve]

With most modern V-twins, it is blow-by to the intake (or airbox in the case of the RS). It could also be excessive tolerances, valve guides, or other mechanical or design issues. If it is burning oil, you would see it in the exhaust. I have yet to see blue smoke or a wet exhaust pipe. BTW, Nancy's has used a minimal amount of oil in three years...all blown to the airbox. My RTS has leaked its loss. For both, the plugs are dry and the exhaust is clean. They are not burning oil.

Guess it sounds more like a crankcase ventilation problem. Wonder if the "Spyder crank case to air box vent filter tubes" would fix this.

The other question I would ask, is this problem in most spyders or just some of them?

 

[freebob]

RT oil consumption

Okay, so how often do you check the oil on your Spyder?
Have you ever checked it to find NO oil registering on the dipstick?

While touring on the RT through Lassen last week, we had the 'check oil' light flash on and go out again instantly. :yikes: No codes displayed when we started it up again. The engine was still hot when we checked the oil, on level ground, and no oil registered.:gaah:

I thought it was strange as three days before I'd taken the RT in for something, and while checking it over, the mechanic found there was no oil registering on the dipstick, so they filled it up. Here it was 3 days later (less than 300 miles) and again, no oil.

There have been no leaks under the Spyder, no smell of oil and no signs of oil blowing. Vaughn added about 2 cups of oil to bring it back to where it was supposed to be. (We haven't checked it since we've been back.)

We were told we should be checking the oil every 1,000 miles.
REALLY???????:dontknow:

Just curious if anyone else has experienced this phenomenon
and if anyone has any thoughts . . . .
:helpsmilie:

Cat

I won't elaborate my feelings on this problem, but that is definitely excessive oil consumption whatever the reason for it might be and it should be addressed as soon as possible By you, dealer, or BRP........
Good luck...ray:

Freebob....:doorag:

 

[bruiser]

Oil issues

I check mine before each ride. When I first got my RT I noticed oil around the dipstick area at about 400 miles. I checked by the book and found the oil overserviced to the point that when the dipstick was removed oil would run out of the hoe. I took it to my dealer to have that remidied. They said it was overserviced out of the crate by BRP. Shortly thereafter I had the expensive 600 mile service done. I haven't noticed any low readings lately although I have noticed the center of the "Y" is wet. I have 1900 on the bike now.

 

[bruiser]

oil checking

The edit didn't take. Hoe should read hole:roflblack:

 

[VaughnCat]

So, Vaughn did a complete oil/filter change yesterday on the RT, so now we will be able to keep an accurate record of how much oil it uses.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts an opinions!
Lots of good food for thought. :firstplace:

Cat :doorag:

 

[Tonga]

I had to add about 1/2 quart of BRP oil between 3k miles scheduled services. At the 6k mark I switched to Bel Ray 0w40 after speaking to a Bel Ray engineer. Now, 1700 miles after the last oil change, the mark is just a tad under the fill line. I checked about 6 times in just as many days because I couldn't believe I wasn't using more oil than that. I'm happy.

My Dealer did the first (600 mile) and second (3000) mile Oil changes and with semi synthetic 5/40 BRP oil. I did the third and switched to Amsoil and now I have added almost 1/2 quart and still 1200 mile to go till I need another oil change. I did not use that much with OEM oil and I have looked, no leaks or drips. Just wonder why?? Full synthetic should not change things that much. Anyone else have this happen??

 

[VaughnCat]

We were told by BRP/dealer that the oil usage is just the 'nature of the beast' . . . . :dontknow:

cat:doorag:

 

[pierrelogic]

My Dealer did the first (600 mile) and second (3000) mile Oil changes and with semi synthetic 5/40 BRP oil. I did the third and switched to Amsoil and now I have added almost 1/2 quart and still 1200 mile to go till I need another oil change. I did not use that much with OEM oil and I have looked, no leaks or drips. Just wonder why?? Full synthetic should not change things that much. Anyone else have this happen??

Chances are you're using a bit more throttle than you were especially during the break in period where that's a no no of course. My level stays right between the lines. If I top it off, it goes right back to the same spot...and I get blowby in the air filter housing.

Next time you change the oil, go ahead and open the air filter housing and check for fluid in and around entire housing. That's where some of your oil is going.

Yes, I did the same thing..BRP oil first two changes and nothing but Amsoil after.

 

[Tonga]

Chances are you're using a bit more throttle than you were especially during the break in period where that's a no no of course. My level stays right between the lines. If I top it off, it goes right back to the same spot...and I get blowby in the air filter housing.

Next time you change the oil, go ahead and open the air filter housing and check for fluid in and around entire housing. That's where some of your oil is going.

Yes, I did the same thing..BRP oil first two changes and nothing but Amsoil after.

I now own an RT and it was broken in gently as was my Premier Edition. As I have said, no noticable usage until brand change (amsoil). I have been told that the RT dosen't have the same issues with the airbox. My GS did so I put the foam in the breather tube and it slowed it down to almost nothing. I have checked for a leak but my engine looks dry all over or at least what I can see. I have added exactly 19 ounces of oil in 3000 klms (1800 miles) Not an issue under normal circumstances but it never used this much with the Semi Synthetic OEM oil. I might go back to it to see what happens. I have 1200 miles left before an oil change so now it is back to the full mark and I will keep an eye on it.