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Checking your Spyder's oil

I'm at SitS. Didn't bring any oil with me.
If I need to add a little, what is the best oil to try and get that will match OK with the BRP oil? That is if I can find an auto parts store in all this mess!

I'll bring my left over 1/2 quart of BRP Synth with me... I use Mobil now, so if you haven't already bought something locally, call my cell at 864-275-6178. If I don't hear from you tomorrow, I'll donate it to the first taker sometime during SITS. Even have a funnel with me. ;)
 
yes 5/40 weight (and not CAR oil)...

right! we picked up 2 1/2 gallons of oil and all the filters, etc., to do the oil changes. the rs is at the shop today getting the dps & 3,000 mile check-up. tomorrow the rt goes in for dps & estimate to fix up the damage caused by the uninsured tweekers drivers if the Yukon....:gaah:
 
we had the 'check oil' light flash on and go out again instantly. :yikes: No codes displayed when we started it up again.

Asked the dealer about this, and he says it's not unusual; called it a phantom caused by a split-second something-or-other :hun: or an out of sequence reading that the computer caught.

Nothing to be concerned about unless the codes do not clear when restarted.

cat
 
Asked the dealer about this, and he says it's not unusual; called it a phantom caused by a split-second something-or-other :hun: or an out of sequence reading that the computer caught.

Nothing to be concerned about unless the codes do not clear when restarted.

cat

first time it happened to me Tuesday when I started it up to bring it to the shop. pulled it out of garage. stopped and started it was still flashing. put it in 1st and it went away.

dealer said that it is normal and would be a chargeable incident if I had them check the codes and there was nothing there that they could bill BRP warranty for.
 
I just checked my RTS oil. It was about a half quart down. The dip stick was not even wet when i checked when the bike was hot.

Maybe thats why the bike has been running very very hot. Like burning hot sides. Hot metal handle bars etc.

And a constant 5 bars on the digital temp gauge.
 
I just checked my RTS oil. It was about a half quart down. The dip stick was not even wet when i checked when the bike was hot.

Maybe thats why the bike has been running very very hot. Like burning hot sides. Hot metal handle bars etc.

And a constant 5 bars on the digital temp gauge.

how many miles did you have on it since the last oil change?

btw just picked up a set of POLK speakers 501 for cheap (mfg refurbs). so in the pile of winter upgrades for the RTS :doorag: also got 6 db waterproof cross overs to install on all 4 speakers. waiting for good deal on the POLK 401 ...
 
RT oil - Update after trip to dealer

We had the DPS changed & estimate on repairs done on the RT yesterday. Since our dealer Ted was just as curious as we were to see what was up with the low oil situation, he had the mechanic check the valves, just in case. But they were within specs. :clap: So he called BRP again, and all they can figure is that it's just the nature of the beast (or Black Beauty, in this case).

We picked up the oil, filters, etc., and Vaughn plans to change oil this weekend. (Clueless, to answer your question, so far we've had it changed @ dealer services, every 3000 - 4000 miles.)

So, I guess the lesson here is that we need to be checking the oil more regularly . . . like at least every 1,000 miles.

Cat :doorag:
 
how many miles did you have on it since the last oil change?

btw just picked up a set of POLK speakers 501 for cheap (mfg refurbs). so in the pile of winter upgrades for the RTS :doorag: also got 6 db waterproof cross overs to install on all 4 speakers. waiting for good deal on the POLK 401 ...


I have a bit over 3650 miles now. Oil was change at about 600. Yes its due for change. I just didnt expect it would be eating oil so quickly.

Incidently, this morning, the temp bar only showed 4 bars. the lowest I have seen it in recent months. But this afternoon on my commute home, it was back up to 5 bars and hot. I checked the oil level and it shows fine.
 
Are you guys all running synthetic oil? I've heard the rings won't seat well with that stuff.

Can't imagine BRP would put in their manual "you can use BRP oil or equivalent synthetic oil" if it did any harm to the rings. I allowed the BRP oil to be used through the break in period and the first oil change. Since then nothing but Amsoil...100% synthetic. Plus using something as expensive as that liquid gold allows me to rack up more than 3000 miles between changes. My dealer even agrees this is fine. :D
 
So far, the dealer has done all the oil changes. But, with so many recommendations about Ken's oil kits, I just sent off an email to him for info . . . for next time.

Don't know if I mentioned it earlier, but the dealer checked the valves and they're within specs. :clap:

Cat :doorag:
 
seating of rings happens from 2 miles to about the first 200 miles.... so 80% of it happens within the 600 mile change out. I think unfortunately BRP ships them with Full Synth. but not sure.

heres some good reading on break in posted earlier:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=242330&postcount=4

And both of those websites say the same thing.

"If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.
 
And both of those websites say the same thing.
Some of this information is very outdated. In the days of rough-honed, cast-iron cylinders, it was necessary to seat the rings before the cylinders glazed and prevented wearing the honing down smooth. The wrong oil, too little rpm and load, or even overheating, could cause glazing or even cylinder distortion. With the advent of honing plates, closer tolerances, fine honing stones, and moly filled rings, this became unnecessary...rings seated quickly on the polished cylinders, and a lack of wear was a desireable thing. With the Nikasil-plated cylinders on the Spyder, there is no cylinder glazing and no wear of the cylinder. Rings seat almost immediately.
 
Some of this information is very outdated. In the days of rough-honed, cast-iron cylinders, it was necessary to seat the rings before the cylinders glazed and prevented wearing the honing down smooth. The wrong oil, too little rpm and load, or even overheating, could cause glazing or even cylinder distortion. With the advent of honing plates, closer tolerances, fine honing stones, and moly filled rings, this became unnecessary...rings seated quickly on the polished cylinders, and a lack of wear was a desireable thing. With the Nikasil-plated cylinders on the Spyder, there is no cylinder glazing and no wear of the cylinder. Rings seat almost immediately.

So why are Spyder owners reporting oil consumption in engines that shouldn't be using oil?
 
So why are Spyder owners reporting oil consumption in engines that shouldn't be using oil?
With most modern V-twins, it is blow-by to the intake (or airbox in the case of the RS). It could also be excessive tolerances, valve guides, or other mechanical or design issues. If it is burning oil, you would see it in the exhaust. I have yet to see blue smoke or a wet exhaust pipe. BTW, Nancy's has used a minimal amount of oil in three years...all blown to the airbox. My RTS has leaked its loss. For both, the plugs are dry and the exhaust is clean. They are not burning oil.
 
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