• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Spyder fastening points

smokster

New member
Hey everyone, hope all are having as much fun with the Spyder as I am. I have camped 12 times this year with the toy hauler and Spyder. Riding the mountain roads has been soooo much fun.

My question:

When people transport their Spyders, does anyone ever use the sway bar as a place to hook to for the front wheels?

I know they want you to strap thru the front wheels, which I have done for awhile now. But now I have a toy hauler and there is not that much room between the tie down ring and the tire to unlatch the ratchet.

I figures the sway bar was a strong point, just did not do it yet.

Any thoughts?
 
I would be reluctant to do this. I resolve the space problem by crossing the tie-downs, fastening the right floor ring to the left strap, and vice versa. With ratcheting tie-downs and wheel chocks, this has worked well. I just have enough space in my v-nose trailer, to stand and tie things down. After I tie the front, I tie the back to pull more tension on the front ties. The back either gets tied straight back, or crossed like the front, depending on what else I am hauling.
 
The sway bar attachment points (to the Spyder) are nowhere near as strong as the wheels. Consider; would you tie down a car using the sway bars? It might work for a while, but if things get interesting, you'd have a loose Spyder.
Would a setup like the one used on tow dollies work better? Just a thought.

john
 
I would be reluctant to do this. I resolve the space problem by crossing the tie-downs, fastening the right floor ring to the left strap, and vice versa. With ratcheting tie-downs and wheel chocks, this has worked well. I just have enough space in my v-nose trailer, to stand and tie things down. After I tie the front, I tie the back to pull more tension on the front ties. The back either gets tied straight back, or crossed like the front, depending on what else I am hauling.
No room for this.
unfortunately, the space from the tire to the ring is no more than 8-12", not alot of room to criss cross them.
 
The sway bar attachment points (to the Spyder) are nowhere near as strong as the wheels. Consider; would you tie down a car using the sway bars? It might work for a while, but if things get interesting, you'd have a loose Spyder.
Would a setup like the one used on tow dollies work better? Just a thought.

john
not sure what this is?
 
I also camp quite a bit and haul my spyder in an enclosed airlite. I've tried quite a few different ways but always come back to going through the wheels as this seems to be the only way it is realy secure. The only downside is that it seems to mark up the aluminum a bit so I've taken to padding these areas. :doorag:
 
Put more tie downs on the trailer floor, space them where they'd work great for your Spyder. That's what I'd do.

This is just one site I pulled up at random... http://www.hitchcorner.com/d_rings.htm#d_ring
I prefer this type. They leave only the base, when the ring is removed, and do not bother us when we camp in our trailer and walk around...even barefoot.

I have considered using wheel nets, but I have not tried it. I also considered single straps over each tire (lengthwise), but I worry about the lateral stability. Do you have room to tie through the wheels with the front wheel straps tying toward the rear, and the rear ones forward? It would work best with removable chocks, but I have done that with bikes in close quarters.
 
I would be reluctant to do this. I resolve the space problem by crossing the tie-downs, fastening the right floor ring to the left strap, and vice versa. With ratcheting tie-downs and wheel chocks, this has worked well. I just have enough space in my v-nose trailer, to stand and tie things down. After I tie the front, I tie the back to pull more tension on the front ties. The back either gets tied straight back, or crossed like the front, depending on what else I am hauling.
:agree: :ani29:
 
Back
Top