Elka Stage 1+'s commeth.

[Tonga]

I'm awake, well sort of. Maybe another coffee. Anyway back to business. My shocks do have a knob on the reservoir that adjusts compression. The manual says that you can fine tune the shocks but to much will make a harsh ride. The kbob on the shock at the top of the spring is rebound. My springs are black and the starting length is 9 inches now. I will measure my bikes (RT) height before I start adjusting. Sounds like that is important to the manufacter's specs. I will still need some more adjustment then my hardest OEM setting so will probably raise the bike somewhat. I am not sure were the reservoir hose goes, along the side of the shock through the A arm opening or over top of it. One pic shows it going through the A-arm. I am a bit upset about the shock shaft out to the elements and now have read that under general maintenance they (Elka) suggest using shock absorber covers. Thanks for the "to late" info. Sounds like that means I will have to remove the shocks to put a cover on, not to mention that at the price I paid, they should be a standard item. No pics on the covers and I think they are a MUST as the shock is going to get lots of debri on the shafts.

Just checked out the Elka site and no mention of shock covers. I will call Elka once they open to get some info. The shocks are right out there in the open and need protection. I hope the covers can be added without removal of the shock.n

 

[SilverSurfer]

My shocks do have a knob on the reservoir that adjusts compression. The manual says that you can fine tune the shocks but to much will make a harsh ride. The kbob on the shock at the top of the spring is rebound. My springs are black and the starting length is 9 inches now. I will measure my bikes (RT) height before I start adjusting. Sounds like that is important to the manufacter's specs. I will still need some more adjustment then my hardest OEM setting so will probably raise the bike somewhat. I am not sure were the reservoir hose goes, along the side of the shock through the A arm opening or over top of it. One pic shows it going through the A-arm. I am a bit upset about the shock shaft out to the elements and now have read that under general maintenance they (Elka) suggest using shock absorber covers. Thanks for the "to late" info. Sounds like that means I will have to remove the shocks to put a cover on, not to mention that at the price I paid, they should be a standard item. No pics on the covers and I think they are a MUST as the shock is going to get lots of debri on the shafts.

Based on your description, it sounds like you have Stage 3s. It would be helpful to see a picture of them. One can read on the on the features section of the Elka for Spyders link (Click Elka vendor on homepage of Spyderlovers.com) that adjustable low/high speed damping isn't a feature until Stage 3.

My reservoir hoses remain inside the hollow of the A-arm, and as close as possible to the shock. This way, the hoze flexes unhampered along with the movement of the A-arm and the shock assembly while in motion. That's what makes sense. You don't want your reservoir hose outside the moving A-arm. Beyond being a hell of a reach for the hose, one 'snag' while ryding and you could break it. Then there's the SilverSurfer solution: My Can Am dealer had 'em on in 45 minutes as part of my 3K service. I pride myself as a quick read on the technology and tweaks of all this; but I like a qualified mechanic to do the major work nonethless. Again, just my solution.

Shock absorber covers: I wouldn't worry too much about that. These shocks fit a cross-section of vehicles, to include dirt bikes and ATVs. When I look online at shock covers, they mostly apply to off-road bikes, ATVs, etc. Elka does sell some covers, but they are pertinent to off-road stuff. Rain and paved road is not going to hurt your shocks. Your hose, mild soapy water and maybe a soft wash brush should do the trick.

Surfer

 

[Tonga]

Based on your description, it sounds like you have Stage 3s. It would be helpful to see a picture of them. One can read on the on the features section of the Elka for Spyders link (Click Elka vendor on homepage of Spyderlovers.com) that adjustable low/high speed damping isn't a feature until Stage 3.

My reservoir hoses remain inside the hollow of the A-arm, and as close as possible to the shock. This way, the hoze flexes unhampered along with the movement of the A-arm and the shock assembly while in motion. That's what makes sense. You don't want your reservoir hose outside the moving A-arm. Beyond being a hell of a reach for the hose, one 'snag' while ryding and you could break it. Then there's the SilverSurfer solution: My Can Am dealer had 'em on in 45 minutes as part of my 3K service. I pride myself as a quick read on the technology and tweaks of all this; but I like a qualified mechanic to do the major work nonethless. Again, just my solution.

Shock absorber covers: I wouldn't worry too much about that. These shocks fit a cross-section of vehicles, to include dirt bikes and ATVs. When I look online at shock covers, they mostly apply to off-road bikes, ATVs, etc. Elka does sell some covers, but they are pertinent to off-road stuff. Rain and paved road is not going to hurt your shocks. Your hose, mild soapy water and maybe a soft wash brush should do the trick.

Surfer

Thanks for your input. The one thing that worries me about Dirt is Bugs that will hit the shock shaft. On other bikes they would splatter on the front forks and the seal would leak in time. I will moniter them and clean after every ride but that's a pain. Don't know why they didn't build them to go the same way as the OEM's, spring up top. My lower OEM shocks do get dirty. I'll get at the install soon. Till later

 

[Tonga]

Trouble

Well, I'm waiting for a call from Elka. Just installed my 3 way Elka shocks and the springs are to soft. The Bike bounces something awful. I cranked down the spring compression ring to 8.5 inches, thats about 1/2 inch tighter then how they came but it raised the bike over an inch from OEM spring height and they were at max. The swaybar now hits the lower A-arm it is so high in the front end. A 3 hour job for me and now I have to take them off. I called the shop I ordered them from and I ordered springs for 2 up riding and 50 lbs of gear. My greatest fear is now reality. Inexperience comes to mind. I was hoping Elka has sold shocks to enough people that I would not have a problem, but maybe a guy named Murphy works there.
I just went out and lowered the compression ring on the spring to 9 inches and my Spyder is back in a normal ride height but to stop the sway and bounce I cranked the rebound and compression to max setting. The springs are definetly to soft. My Luck:dontknow:

 

[Tonga]

Well, Just off the phone with Elka and new springs on the way. I now have 250 lb spring rate and will be getting 300 lb spring rate. He's hoping they are the right ones.

 

[Tonga]

I have been looking for Lamont and can't find his thread. He did say he has changed springs on his Spyder without taking the shocks out completely. I hope to do that as well. The Reservior was the hardest to do so if I'm lucky I'll leave it along but would like Lamont to give me some hints.

 

[SilverSurfer]

Hi Tonga ...

Lamont pulled his imput from my thread to post distinct, separate data from his experience. He has posted a new thread at:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22248.

I will continue my thread. The thing is, without knowing exactly what our respective weights and other particulars are, I feel I have no choice but to bottom out my exploration of this until it's evident that I need a spring upgrade or not. I weigh just under 200 lbs. Lamont looks like he might be a bigger guy than me, and your weight may be different as well. I'm going to tweak these things tonight or tomorrow, and am happy to keep ya posted. Indeed, Lamont aces me, if not most of us, in garage experience.

Surfer

 

[Mad Matt]

Elka's for the RT

I have also ordered the 300# springs for the front of my RT and I also have an Elka rear shock on the way. I am anxiously awaiting testing these improvements. I already have the Evoluzione Sway bar installed. I will post my results as well.

Matt

 

[SilverSurfer]

Elkas

Hi Matt ...

Yours is the second 'clue' that Elka now has a rear shock available for the RT. Yup ... 300s ... seems to be a trend, and that Elka should just default to them for all RT installations. Looking forward to further feedback.

Paul

 

[Mad Matt]

Paul,

I did the first Elka RT rear shock fit up and I have been working with Elka on getting the rear shock specifications for the RT. It is not a fast process but It is almost done and the Elka rear shocks for the RT will be out very soon.

Of course all Elka shocks are available through Kewlmetal!

Matt

 

[Tonga]

Good to have input but wish it happened before I ordered my Elka's. The springs need to be strong enough to hold the bike (RT/RTS} up. The 250's are like rubber bands, so easy to sway from side to side or just bounce up and down, something I did not feel with the OEM springs. I did adjust the dampening to Max and now things are somewhat better but my OEM do the same so hopefully the new springs will work better. I did order for my/our weight plus 50 lbs of gear. That's 400 lbs loaded but I don't think Elka knows what is standard spring rate on the RT/RTS. I don't think the rear is critical and must say the after my rear shock was replaced, the bike handled very much better and might have had second thoughts on ordering the Elka's. To late now !!! I did find a vast improvement with the Evo Swaybar but with 2 up riding it seemed to be reduced. We must keep everyone informed with our results.

 

[Lamonster]

Good to have input but wish it happened before I ordered my Elka's. The springs need to be strong enough to hold the bike (RT/RTS} up. The 250's are like rubber bands, so easy to sway from side to side or just bounce up and down, something I did not feel with the OEM springs. I did adjust the dampening to Max and now things are somewhat better but my OEM do the same so hopefully the new springs will work better. I did order for my/our weight plus 50 lbs of gear. That's 400 lbs loaded but I don't think Elka knows what is standard spring rate on the RT/RTS. I don't think the rear is critical and must say the after my rear shock was replaced, the bike handled very much better and might have had second thoughts on ordering the Elka's. To late now !!! I did find a vast improvement with the Evo Swaybar but with 2 up riding it seemed to be reduced. We must keep everyone informed with our results.

I don't know how much you weigh but I'm guessing 220 or so. If that's close the only difference in your setup and my setup (before I put on the 300lb springs) is I have the stock swaybar. You said yours hits and it bouncy, I would put the stock bar back on before I blamed the shocks. I never had any bouncy feeling with my Elka's even when I had the 200lb springs on. I can tell you for sure that the geometry of the swaybar on the RS is much different than the RT and that's why it doesn't have the same dramatic effect on the RT.

 

[Tonga]

I must explain bounce. With the OEM shocks set max I could not push down on the front end while standing up on my foot pegs and holding and pushing on the bars as I could with the 250 lb springs. They must be lower rating the OEM springs. The only way I could stop the bounce was to max both dampening adjusters. They tell you to start at softest setting going up but I am going right to the hardest going down to a softer setting. I can also while standing beside my RT pull an my handlebars and the bike sways side to side so easy with the 250 lb springs, My Evo SwayBar is much better then OEM but it does hit the A-arm if the bike is to high. I never thought the bike would lift so much when I cranked the adjuster to 8.5 inch unladen length. I hope that putting a stiffer spring wont hold my RT to high because I will adjust it to 9 inches just like my OEM spring set to max. My weight is just under 200 lbs, my wife 150 and I thought 50 lbs of gear but I still say Elka does not know what OEM spring rate is. I was hoping to get a bit more spring rate then OEM rating because the OEM would have worked for me if there was about 2 more clicks up. The Dampening is also a must to fine tune the ride. I would say right now that if Elka just gave me the adjustable shock that worked with the OEM spring, then it would work and cost less, well I would hope.

 

[SilverSurfer]

Elkas

Thanks for the info, Matt. I did an adjustment to my 250s today that you may be interested in. I posted it on Lamonster's thread at http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=241558&posted=1#post241558.

So you're the first fit-up of an Elka Rear shock to an RT? I'll be interested to know how that works in tandem with the RT-S's electronic rear-suspension control.

Best,

Paul

 

[SilverSurfer]

Elka 250lb Spring Post Adjustment Report

Hi ... I just wanted to report back on my post-adjustment performance. Let me preface that this is in no way meant to affect others' preference for higher-rate springs. My weight ranges between 195 and 210, depending on how many a** chewings I get within a week; which is what I gave to Elka upon ordering (my weight; not the number of chewings). This morning, I adjusted the 250s on my RT. Previously, I was experiencing what I felt was some excessive roll or 'float' at high speed.

Adjustments: I cranked down two full turns on preload; and two clicks counter-clockwise on rebound (slower). Measured my compressed spring lengths which are now at 8.25". Before they were right at 8.5" I believe preload compresses the top- and bottom-two coils first. Looking at the springs, the top and bottom two coils are compressed 60% (a correction from original write-up), which is good because it means no dreaded spring binding at my weight and this adjustment). From 10", I am now scrunched down 1.75". I don't want to exceed two inches, and don't sense I'll need to. Also I found the markings on my springs ... an alphanumeric ending in 254, and the other shock matches it. I guess this means it's 250, rounded off. Oh ... I still have the stock rear shock set to '4' out of 5.

Result so far: Much, much better for my riding style (a touring rider). Bike is level. Minimal nose dive on firm braking. I enjoyed a nice flat, solid ride into work this morning. Rebound seemed right (no jarring on bumps; no bouncy bouncy). Comfortably passed several cars riding in the 67-70 mph range. There is a long sweeping curve on one of the roads I go; on which previously, I felt I had to slow to 45 mph comfortably. Today I took it at 50 easily, and I could have exceeded that aggressively. I have a "Tail of the Salamander," route on back roads I often use in the evening (on which I also took the deer hit back in June) that has about a quarter mile of 20-30mph twisties. I'm going to try that going home.

So for me ... and it's just me ... I'll probably get those 300s because it looks like an easy switch (and possibly free); also because the 300s provide the most flexibility for future two-up ryding and a lot of gear. But so far - so good with the 250s. I don't feel in a nervous panic to replace them; if it starts feeling loosey-goosey again, I'll probably try compressing one more turn to an 8 1/8th" spring length, but no more.
NOTE: It would be interesting to know how many pounds of pre-load are equal to one turn of the pre-load dial. This would probably vary, depending on rating of the spring (250, 275; 300, etc).

Thanks, Lamonster for answering the questions on your other thread. Yeah ... figured one would have to lift the bike. I have an auto craft shop on here on Fort Meade that'll lend me a bay, a floor jack and some nice tools to do the switch if I need to.

Cheers,

Surfer