SPYDER RTS STEERING PROBLEM - WARNING!

[Prense01]

Contrary to what most others have done setup wise , after riding a couple thousand miles with the front shocks on my RTS cranked full hard and the rear set to 3/4 firm, I cranked the front shocks back to midway and set the rear suspension at half while I was in North Carolina before our trip back to NY . I weigh 250 and run with about 20 pounds of junk loaded most of the time. It has now been 1200 miles since I softened it up and I haven't looked back. I went into a 20 mph corner yesterday at 60 mph and it cut it like butter. I loosened it up after getting a bit annoyed at the harshness on sharp bumps. Maybe I've just been riding sleds for so many years that I have this whole 2 wheels (or 2 skis) in front thing figured out and the handling is second nature. I am very happy with the softer settings and a tiny bit of body english is all it takes to keep the body-roll at bay. Just my 2 cents. :doorag:

I have the same thoughts on this. I ride with the front shocks at mid range and the rear at mid range. When my wife comes along, I inflate the rear fully.

I love the feel and handling of this machine!

Chris :spyder:

 

[IdleUp]

Thanks for the replies - however the shock is going to dampen a bump or unevenness in the road and that's not the problem with the RT and RTS. Our problem is the ride is too soft and therefore as you're driving down the road the body is rolling to the right and left with pitches in the road and wind gusts changing the geometrics from the DPS to the linkages causing the DPS to over-react. Bottom line unlike the older Spyders the RT and RTS is always trying to stabilize itself.

Testimonial to this is as you add a passenger and increase the top-end center of gravity the problem gets worse because now there is more roll factor.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Did you ever get your alignment checked out ??

I hope so. As I posted, it made all the difference int he world for me.

 

[IdleUp]

Well I guess - sort of - but I'm not sure it was done correct!

 

[widowmaker2011]

Thanks for the replies - however the shock is going to dampen a bump or unevenness in the road and that's not the problem with the RT and RTS. Our problem is the ride is too soft and therefore as you're driving down the road the body is rolling to the right and left with pitches in the road and wind gusts changing the geometrics from the DPS to the linkages causing the DPS to over-react. Bottom line unlike the older Spyders the RT and RTS is always trying to stabilize itself.

Testimonial to this is as you add a passenger and increase the top-end center of gravity the problem gets worse because now there is more roll factor.

I wouldn't go quite that far , I weigh 250 , wife 140 and we ride fully loaded with the front shocks at half setting and rear at 3/4. Even with those setting we are straight as an arrow unless you in some REAL twisties.

 

[IdleUp]

Well - that just shows I have a problem - so your saying when your going down the road and as the bike hits dips and the body rolls to the right and left there is absolutely no interaction to the steering?

If this is the case you might have a special bike.

The best way I can explain it is; on my standard Spyder when I go around a curve, I have to push the bars to make the turn. On all three bike at the dealership mine include - as I pushed the bars it would have some resistance but then all of a sudden it over-steers - you pull back and the long and short of it you have to constantly keep correcting it through a turn.

 

[widowmaker2011]

Well - that just shows I have a problem - so your saying when your going down the road and as the bike hits dips and the body rolls to the right and left there is absolutely no interaction to the steering?

If this is the case you might have a special bike.

The best way I can explain it is; on my standard Spyder when I go around a curve, I have to push the bars to make the turn. On all three bike at the dealership mine include - as I pushed the bars it would have some resistance but then all of a sudden it over-steers - you pull back and the long and short of it you have to constantly keep correcting it through a turn.

I owned 2 Original Spyders and I own 2 RTS's now. I don't have any of those symptoms- I will say this however , I felt awkward on the RTs for a few hundred miles and seemed to be always correcting the steering. I guess I just learned a better body position. I do know I use very very little effort to steer and keep a light grip. But yes I'm saying it takes almost no steering interaction in the scenario you describe. First few hundred miles , different story.

 

[NancysToy]

Well - that just shows I have a problem - so your saying when your going down the road and as the bike hits dips and the body rolls to the right and left there is absolutely no interaction to the steering?

If this is the case you might have a special bike.

The best way I can explain it is; on my standard Spyder when I go around a curve, I have to push the bars to make the turn. On all three bike at the dealership mine include - as I pushed the bars it would have some resistance but then all of a sudden it over-steers - you pull back and the long and short of it you have to constantly keep correcting it through a turn.

The oversteer and veering whenever you hit a bump or the wind blows, is a classic symptom of toe-out. My Spyder had the same problem, until it the sensors were zeroed and it was aligned according to the manual. Now it is very good...with the front shocks set up to limit the wallow. It no longer dives into a turn, requiring reverse resistance on the bars. It did so before the repairs. I never set the back higher than necessary, it increases the steering sensitivity. Yes, the RT/RTS reacts to the wind and bumps more than the RS. It is the same way a Goldwing reacts more than a crotch rocket. Softer suspension and a huge sail out front. That is the nature of touring bikes. With proper alignment and a little rider adjustment, it is very manageable, however.

 

[IdleUp]

Thanks Scotty - I'm going to peruse getting the front end re-aligned. This sounds exactly how mine is acting.

Thanks

 

[Sopher]

Somewhere is a thread on how to check and set alignment yourself.
few tools are needed, like laser levels and a two long pieces of straight bar or board.

 

[glynnk]

Almost 8,000 miles on mine and no problems....

Glynnk

 

[IdleUp]

Hey Thanks

If you run into the link please let me know _ I'd like to check it before I bring it to the dealer.

Thanks

Somewhere is a thread on how to check and set alignment yourself.
few tools are needed, like laser levels and a two long pieces of straight bar or board.