Changed rear bearings....

[Firefly]

As long as I had my rear tire off to change it, I decided to replace all the bearing and seals.

Everything comes apart pretty easily, and with the right tools you can pop the bearings right out and put the new ones in.

Ended up using a blind hole puller borrowed from local AutoZone.

Really wanted to just use a bearing puller.. but the only place I could find one locally was at Harbour Freight for $16.00. Bought one --- it bent and broke within 5 minutes (no big shock as they sell crap). Will get $$$ back on that tomorrow.

Anyhow--- I didn't have to heat anything to get the bearings back in--- just greased them up and popped them in.

The old ones didn't seem bad-- but considering how inexpensive they are-- decided to just do em.

Here's some pics of the puller and a bushing punch I used to put them in.

 

[Firefly]

And this one...

 

[groundeffect]

:2thumbs:

How many miles/kilometers do you have on those before you changed 'em out?


Good to here they are not so expensive.
Thanks for sharing, nice post!

 

[sledhead]

Interesting post Firefly... I have a feeling I will be doing mine in the not to distant future... How long did it take you after you got the right tools to use???
Thanks for the pics as well!!

 

[Firefly]

21,000 miles total right now. With the right tools you can do it in 30 min. I was really concerned about doing it..... But it ended up being much easier than I expected.

 

[pierrelogic]

Thanks for the great post...thread subscribed too because it won't be long I'll be needing this info. :2thumbs:

 

[groundeffect]

21,000 miles total right now. With the right tools you can do it in 30 min. I was really concerned about doing it..... But it ended up being much easier than I expected.

Very cool.:thumbup:

 

[YPILOT]

Did you use BRP parts or did you find better replacement bearings and seals?

As long as I had my rear tire off to change it, I decided to replace all the bearing and seals.

Everything comes apart pretty easily, and with the right tools you can pop the bearings right out and put the new ones in.

Ended up using a blind hole puller borrowed from local AutoZone.

Really wanted to just use a bearing puller.. but the only place I could find one locally was at Harbour Freight for $16.00. Bought one --- it bent and broke within 5 minutes (no big shock as they sell crap). Will get $$$ back on that tomorrow.

Anyhow--- I didn't have to heat anything to get the bearings back in--- just greased them up and popped them in.

The old ones didn't seem bad-- but considering how inexpensive they are-- decided to just do em.

Here's some pics of the puller and a bushing punch I used to put them in.

 

[Firefly]

Used all BRP OEM parts--- I've had them for awhile. I have one more set as a backup in case of emergency.

 

[Firefly]

Went for a ryde last night with new tire and bearings--- WOW --- things feel much smoother than before---- probably most due to new tire as my old one was really worn bad.

Didn't have time to do the brakes--- maybe next weekend.

 

[docdoru]

I guess I am curious as to why change them? The wheel bearings normally last years or hundreds of thousands of miles. It just seems like a needless expenditure of time.

Better do-it before you have frozen bearings, blowing the sprocket, hub, swingarm....opcorn:

 

[draboo]

Didn't have time to do the brakes--- maybe next weekend.

I changed brakepads before we left on our 8K mi excursion. I read that somewhere(I think here on Spyderlovers..) that there is a switch down by the brake pedal that, IF your pedal is pushed too far down, it actuates an brake error message.

I had to get the brakes bled at the dealer after I changed pads because of pushing the pedal too far down. The brakes were dynamite, just the message wouldnt go away.

edit:http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15748

 

[Firefly]

I guess I am curious as to why change them? The wheel bearings normally last years or hundreds of thousands of miles. It just seems like a needless expenditure of time.

A few reasons I felt this was a good idea:

1. Many have found the rear bearings to go at 20,000 miles
2. BRP had the belt tension far too tight causing excess pressure on the bearings.
3. I have 3,000 mile trip coming up in 2 weeks and don't want a breakdown on the road.
4. They're inexpensive.

I plan on doing them every-other rear tire for peace of mind.

 

[Just Doo Me]

I know the part number but does anyone have the bearing size? Are they 6205:dontknow: ?

 

[Lamonster]

I know the part number but does anyone have the bearing size? Are they 6205:dontknow: ?

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12932&highlight=bearing+size

 

[Just Doo Me]

Thank You. It was brought up in Spydergirls post on bearing replacement that there was two different part numbers for the bearings:dontknow:

 

[Lamonster]

Thank You. It was brought up in Spydergirls post on bearing replacement that there was two different part numbers for the bearings:dontknow:

The sprocket has a thicker bearing, I don't have that size right now.

 

[lightman02]

As long as I had my rear tire off to change it, I decided to replace all the bearing and seals.

Everything comes apart pretty easily, and with the right tools you can pop the bearings right out and put the new ones in.

Ended up using a blind hole puller borrowed from local AutoZone.

Really wanted to just use a bearing puller.. but the only place I could find one locally was at Harbour Freight for $16.00. Bought one --- it bent and broke within 5 minutes (no big shock as they sell crap). Will get $$$ back on that tomorrow.

Anyhow--- I didn't have to heat anything to get the bearings back in--- just greased them up and popped them in.

The old ones didn't seem bad-- but considering how inexpensive they are-- decided to just do em.

Here's some pics of the puller and a bushing punch I used to put them in.

I'm not trying to be a jerk but I have no idea what bearing puller you could have bought for $16 that could have been designed to pull a wheel bearing. I have this http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html which is just as good if not better then any crap Auto Zone sells which is pretty much the same grade stuff. Trust me I am not defending Harbor Freight as I know some of there stuff is bad but I hate it when people buy the wrong tools and then bash a company because it failed. Not mention I have pulled two crank bearings with this set on an ATV engine and no problems, it is very heavy metal. Not sure how you bend a bearing puller when you are supposed to pull straight?? I'm not trying to create a war just giving my 02.

 

[Firefly]

I'm not trying to be a jerk but I have no idea what bearing puller you could have bought for $16 that could have been designed to pull a wheel bearing. I have this http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html which is just as good if not better then any crap Auto Zone sells which is pretty much the same grade stuff. Trust me I am not defending Harbor Freight as I know some of there stuff is bad but I hate it when people buy the wrong tools and then bash a company because it failed. Not mention I have pulled two crank bearings with this set on an ATV engine and no problems, it is very heavy metal. Not sure how you bend a bearing puller when you are supposed to pull straight?? I'm not trying to create a war just giving my 02.

The $16 cheapo unit from HF was one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html

Not really the right tool for this job-- but shouldn't have bent. Cheapo Chinese crap is about all HF sells.


The unit in the photos above was from Auto Zone and was FREE to borrow for a day or so....:thumbup:

 

[Freddy]

sprocket bearing no.

30BD40DF2 NSK double row. Wheel takes 2 of 6205 2RS bearings and the seals are 37x55 - two needed.

Three O-rings 15IDx3mm and one 60IDx3mm also needed to complete the job.