Turns over, now STARTS!

[pjp623]

Well, finally after a week of trying everything possible--no matter how far out there--to get my Spyder running I have had success. :yes::yes::yes: I think that the original cause was vapor lock, but in the process of checking out the fuses and relays, I didn't get the ignition coil fuse back into it's proper position. :hun: Yep, combination of a long frustrating day and being tired, doesn"t bode well for working on any mechanical device.:bowdown:
But I did learn a lot, like what dealer never to patronize again, how to take a Spyder apart and put it back together, why it's important not to drop the spark plug wrench--any tips on how to get it back from underneath--and most importantly what great member support is out there from you all--THANKS.
Next I'll have to give my Spyder a name rather than calling it :cus::cus::cus:, like I have been.
Can anyone tell me where I can get a shop manual?

 

[spyder30517]

they have them on Ebay for download or you can order the CD
I think I paid $19 for mine
I think it was Midwestmanuals.com?

 

[GaryTheBadger]

Curious...is a vapor lock symptom that it cranks but doesn't start WHEN HOT, such as five minutes after stopping after a long hot ryde? Could anything else cause this symptom?

 

[pjp623]

That's my take on it, plus I had just filled it 5 minutes before I got home. I'm sure that it could have been something else as well but :cus: the fuse sure didn't help.

 

[COOLMACHINE]

could be vapor lock

Curious...is a vapor lock symptom that it cranks but doesn't start WHEN HOT, such as five minutes after stopping after a long hot ryde? Could anything else cause this symptom?

Probably not the only possible cause but vapor lock does act that way.

 

[IWN2RYD]

Curious...is a vapor lock symptom that it cranks but doesn't start WHEN HOT, such as five minutes after stopping after a long hot ryde? Could anything else cause this symptom?

VW's (1970's) are notorious for this. What has basically happened in the case of vapor lock is this....

The fuel in a particular portion of the fuel line or fuel filter has turned to vapor, and is no longer liquid. The only way to get rid of it is to allow the engine, the hose and what not to cool off enough to keep the fuel in the line from vaporizing again.

This is actually one of the problems of the past. You really only see it on newer vehicles when a person has "Modified" the areas around fuel lines. For example.... Re-routing the Headers or exhaust pipes. Or removing the stock Air Cleaner Assembly that was part of the designed "Heat" reflection or control of a part of a fuel line.

 

[pjp623]

Thanks for the clarification. I've owned and worked on a lot of 60's vintage cars and encountered this problem under similar circumstances with them. :thumbup:

 

[canam9]

Good to hear your on the road again.
Have a great summer:2thumbs:

 

[pjp623]

:yes: Thanks, you do the same. :yes:

 

[boborgera]

VW's (1970's) are notorious for this. What has basically happened in the case of vapor lock is this....

:agree:I had a VW Rabbit 76 ? 77. Vapor Lock got me one hot Summer.
I drilled a hole through the gas cap and that little bit of venting solved the vapor lock. nojoke

 

[QuadManiac]

Vapor lock was common on older model vehicles that had an engine mounted fuel pump. With the pump pulling on the fuel in the line between the pump inlet and the fuel tank, if the fuel is hot enough, the lowered pressure in the line (caused by the pull from the pump) was enough to lower the vapor pressure in the fuel causing bubbles.

This is essentially impossible in vehicles with gravity fed fuel pumps at the tank or in-tank pumps... the only place were vapor lock could occur is in the short hose between the tank and the pump (if it is external to the tank) or nowhere if the pump is internal to the tank. With EFI, the pressure in the post-pump fuel supply line is so high that vapor lock becomes impossible.

 

[NancysToy]

Vapor lock was common on older model vehicles that had an engine mounted fuel pump. With the pump pulling on the fuel in the line between the pump inlet and the fuel tank, if the fuel is hot enough, the lowered pressure in the line (caused by the pull from the pump) was enough to lower the vapor pressure in the fuel causing bubbles.

This is essentially impossible in vehicles with gravity fed fuel pumps at the tank or in-tank pumps... the only place were vapor lock could occur is in the short hose between the tank and the pump (if it is external to the tank) or nowhere if the pump is internal to the tank. With EFI, the pressure in the post-pump fuel supply line is so high that vapor lock becomes impossible.

:agree:

 

[pjp623]

I guess that I stand corrected, but it certainly acted like it was. Possibly it was fouled plugs, cause I changed them out as well and lost the wrench in the process. :gaah: It's still in there somewhere.