• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

RT Shocks or Sway Bar?

SpyderWolf

New member
With all of the talk about installing the RT shocks on the GS for better performance, I still have one question.

If you could only get 1 item, either the RT shocks or the sway bar, which would you go with for the most bang for the buck?

I suppose in this case it would also help to know my Spyder currently has 9,000 miles on it with the original shocks set at maximum.
 
Tough call---- but it concerns me a bit you're already maxed out on the shocks. Did you max them out for better handling, less bounce, ???

Do you seem to have excess roll in the curves?

If you weren't maxed out on the shocks I would say sway bar --- but since you are maxed... I would lean towards shocks 1st so you can run them down at 3 or 4 instead of max.

I would highly recommend both.......
 
Wolf, I dont know if your considering putting an air shock in the rear but the Kewlmetal version dramatically stiffens the ride. I had my front shocks maxed out as well and have since brought them down two clicks to try and soften things up. I will say this, though the rear suspension is now too stiff for my taste, it has really helped reduce instances of the VSS kicking in.

My point in all this, IMO, if you plan to change the rear end, I would do that first and then consider the front. I am certainly not an expert but just sharing my experiences thus far.:dontknow:
 
Tough call---- but it concerns me a bit you're already maxed out on the shocks. Did you max them out for better handling, less bounce, ???

Do you seem to have excess roll in the curves?

If you weren't maxed out on the shocks I would say sway bar --- but since you are maxed... I would lean towards shocks 1st so you can run them down at 3 or 4 instead of max.

I would highly recommend both.......

I maxed them out for better handling. I do not think the roll in curves is excessive, but it is there. Spyder does not ryde on rails as some have reported it doing after getting the sway bar.

Eventually I will probably end up getting both. Right now I am thinking about just one, as I still have some other things I want to do as well. I still haven't found that ever elusive money tree no matter how many yards I have looked in. :dontknow:

Heck, I could have come close to getting both with the money I have hovering out there waiting for my Juice Box Pro to be shipped. The order for that was placed April 11. :yikes:
 
Wolf, I dont know if your considering putting an air shock in the rear but the Kewlmetal version dramatically stiffens the ride. I had my front shocks maxed out as well and have since brought them down two clicks to try and soften things up. I will say this, though the rear suspension is now too stiff for my taste, it has really helped reduce instances of the VSS kicking in.

My point in all this, IMO, if you plan to change the rear end, I would do that first and then consider the front. I am certainly not an expert but just sharing my experiences thus far.:dontknow:

I am probably just going to stick with the standard shocks in the rear. I also have that one maxed out, and the ryde feels good to me from the saddle.

Between all of the mods I have already done to my Spyder and then the ones I am considering now, it is almost guaranteed that I will have to keep working until the day I die to try to keep us out of the poor house. :D
 
You need three things: the RT shocks, the sway bar, and automobile tires. Each of these costs about $200, or so. If you wait until front replacement tires are needed, the auto tires will be "free" (no incremental cost). I would not wait. Auto tires would be first on my list. Next I would do the sway bar. The RT shocks would be third only because a choice must be made. I would have done these three and delayed the juice box. The improvement in cornering and handling will be dramatic. I guarantee that you will be "on rails".
 
Last edited:
Tough call---- but it concerns me a bit you're already maxed out on the shocks. Did you max them out for better handling, less bounce, ???

Do you seem to have excess roll in the curves?

If you weren't maxed out on the shocks I would say sway bar --- but since you are maxed... I would lean towards shocks 1st so you can run them down at 3 or 4 instead of max.

I would highly recommend both.......
:agree:
 
You need three things: the RT shocks, the sway bar, and automobile tires. Each of these costs about $200, or so. If you wait until front replacement tires are needed, the auto tires will be "free" (no incremental cost). I would not wait. Auto tires would be first on my list. Next I would do the sway bar. The RT shocks would be third only because a choice must be made. I would have done these three and delayed the juice box. The improvement in cornering and handling will be dramatic. I guaranty that you will be "on rails".
:agree:
The tires made a HUGE change for the better. Falken 185/60-14 ZE912's on mine.
 
If I had it to do over again I would have bought the shocks first and then see if you think you need the swaybar. I'm still running stock front tires on mine.
 
You need three things: the RT shocks, the sway bar, and automobile tires. Each of these costs about $200, or so. If you wait until front replacement tires are needed, the auto tires will be "free" (no incremental cost). I would not wait. Auto tires would be first on my list. Next I would do the sway bar. The RT shocks would be third only because a choice must be made. I would have done these three and delayed the juice box. The improvement in cornering and handling will be dramatic. I guaranty that you will be "on rails".

Thanks! That makes sense as well. I have been reading about others switching to the car tires on the front, and it all seems positive so far. That actually sounds like a very good plan.

The Juice Box is necessary to cure my lean running condition since I have the Hindle and K&N filter installed in the air box. I really want the extra performance the JB is going to give; however, since Two Bros currently has no ETA on the shipping of the unit I may be better off to buy another stock air filter to use for now. Then I could cancel the order and get a couple of these other items.

Decisions, decisions. :dontknow:

:agree:
The tires made a HUGE change for the better. Falken 185/60-14 ZE912's on mine.

Mike, did you have any trouble with fitment on the front fenders when going with the 185's? That size definitely opens up a lot more choices in tires, but does anything need to be modified in order to make them fit?
 
If I had it to do over again I would have bought the shocks first and then see if you think you need the swaybar. I'm still running stock front tires on mine.

Thanks Lamont, that is some very encouraging news as I know you have ridden yours hard through the twisties! That could also be done easily enough with my current plans, and then I can see where things go from there.

All this flopping back and forth is making me a little sea sick. :roflblack:

I really do appreciate everyone's advice, and opinions, on this topic though. :thumbup:
 
I guess my opinion goes against the grain...so what's new?

But I think I'd go with the sway bar first. I was able to lighten up 2 notches on my front shocks with the sway bar both improving the ride and stability at the same time.

I have not replaced the front shocks so I lack that experience. But the sway bar works on both sides at the same time effectively increasing shock spring rate without making the suspension stiffer. It uses the weight of the unloaded side to level the loaded side instead of making each side stiffer as heavier shocks would do.

I agree that adding the RT (or a stiffer shock of any kind) is a good idea, though I have not yet done this.
 
Just for reference:
I just got back from the mountians (First time on the Spyder)
I have shocks maxed and sway bar. Stock tires. Got plenty of practice.
I was happy with the coner speed but this thing is no sport bike. I venture to say I could not have kept up with a good rider on a Gold Wing.
When I got back I ran this test and it will geve perdictable results so I can compare as I mod.
We have a traffic circle in town. It is a small circle as circles go.
My bud on his GXSR1000 can take it (round and round) at 85mph constant speed.(He is a knee dragger)
I tried it last night. I used to race 4 wheelers on a dirt track.
I was hanging off to the max and could get hit 55mph for a second or 2 before it lifted a wheel and shut me down. I could maintain 50mph like my budy maintained 85mph.
This should give some perspective of the potencial. Can you improve the handling? Sure ... but it anit no sport bike....
 
if the damping is still ok on rs shocks can you just replace the springs with rt springs if they will fit, would be a lot cheaper
 
if the damping is still ok on the rs can the springs be replaced with rt springs. if they fit it would be a lot cheaper than replaceing shocks as well
 
I agree . . . . .

. . . . with BajaRon above.

The Sway-bar would be first, since it will affect the shocks AND handling.
It would probably make new shocks a nice-to-have, but would take care of your immediate problem/craving. ( not the Money Tree one )

Then, like Spyder1026 suggests, replace the tires with car tires - though, I plan to do it when the originals need replacing.

If you still feel you need to do the shocks, then doing them with the new tires would be the easiest, but they could be done anytime you found a good deal on them.

I really agree with Spyder1026 on the JuiceBox. ( though I need to say, that I think JBs are a poor [nicest word I could come up with] add-on to a Spyder, unless you ride like Doc, Seth & Deb :D )

Cancel the order for the JB and get your Sway-bar. Better handling NOW is far more exciting than a JB that is backordered.

Tom
 
The JB pro would be overkill for the average rider... the regular JB is pretty good for keeping you from running too lean with better intakes/exhausts. The Spyder already runs too lean... leaning it out more with intakes & exhausts isn't good.

That being said, I'm still not running as good with the JB as I was when I just cranked up my fuel pressure. Going to increase the fuel pressure just a bit and see if I can find some common ground.
 
Cancel the order for the JB and get your Sway-bar. Better handling NOW is far more exciting than a JB that is backordered.

Tom

Juice Box is backordered?! Hard to believe as I don't have any problems getting them. Who doesn't have them?
 
Back
Top