Well I'm in Illinois so it's closer for me to face west.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
- Thread starter Lamonster
- Start date
Well I'm in Illinois so it's closer for me to face west.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I think this is due to initial offerings from China that were absoulte junk. Just like when Japan started making things their stuff was junk.
China has been working on their quality control issues. They still put out a lot of junk and I'm not saying their bearings are as good as those made in the US.
On the other hand, some China bearings may be as good. They are certainly much better than they were. But they did earn a reputation and it will take quite some time to live that down.
Plus, there is a growing animosity towards products made outside the US (since almost nothing is made here anymore). Another reason you may be getting this statement for your parts guy.
Trouble is, even many good old US made bearing name brands are now being produced in China or elsewhere.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
It's not bad but I would have your dealer do it if you've never done it before.
The nice thing is you can take the hub apart so you can knock the bearing out from the back side without a special tool.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
Got my bearings and they look pretty good. :doorag:
They are made in China.
The inner race seems to be a little thicker than stock.
They turn smoother than the stock bearing I have in hand now.
The two black bearings are the new ones and the red bearing is the stock one.
They are made in China.
The inner race seems to be a little thicker than stock.
They turn smoother than the stock bearing I have in hand now.
The two black bearings are the new ones and the red bearing is the stock one.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
I had one spin in the hub at 36,000 miles. The others seem to be fine.Lamont have you replaced yours yet? Mine feel fine at 10500 miles when will this be an issue in your opinion?
opcorn:
SpyderGirl
New member
Just got a call from the dealer telling me that they have the "outer" bearing, but not the other two and that they are backordered until the 26th. He said that the bearings look good and we gave him the okay to replace the "outer" bearing. He tells me it's $22 for this part that they do have.
Do you think I'm running a risk of bearing failure if I let the other other two go until after my 6000 mile trip? I have 15K miles now.
Any information would be helpful.
Do you think I'm running a risk of bearing failure if I let the other other two go until after my 6000 mile trip? I have 15K miles now.
Any information would be helpful.
Last edited:
capt.jim
Member
The hub bearing is larger and wider, cost me $72, made by National, part #5106-wcc, looked on the back of the box, "made in China", even the bearing salesman was surprised, haven't installed it yet, hope it's a good one. The dealers should stock at least one of every wear and tear item, brake pads, belt, bearings and seals, exhaust seals, it's not like their going to sit on the shelf forever, I'm lucky if they have oil filters in stock.
Last edited:
Firefly
Active member
That's way too much for that bearing--- if we're talking about the same one -- here are the OEM bearings and prices:
The Wheel:
Product Number: 293350055
Description: BALL BEARING for 2008 Can-Am Spyder GS 990 5-Speed Order
Unit Price: $7.49
The Hub:
Product Number: 293350065
Description: *BEARING for 2008 Can-Am Spyder GS 990 5-Speed
Unit Price: $18.49
All I'll say is that I know someone who replaced the front wheel bearing on his GMC pickup 3 times in 6 months, they were all made by National (made in China). I realize it's apples to oranges, but just sayin'.
These were sealed hub units that can't be over tightened. He used the same brand because the parts store was replacing them under warranty. He eventually switched to a Timkin unit that hasn't been a problem.
krb1945
New member
If anyone happens to have a ....
GL1500 rear wheel bearing set handy. They might be the same... don't have any on the bench or cabinet but if memory is working today... it seems one of the rears was a wide big bearing and the other was a smaller one. I just dumped my junk bucket and the old ones went to scrap metal. Boy I wish I had measured it. The last time I bought one of them it was about 50 bucks and they were good quality Japanese bearings... made in Japan. /Ken
GL1500 rear wheel bearing set handy. They might be the same... don't have any on the bench or cabinet but if memory is working today... it seems one of the rears was a wide big bearing and the other was a smaller one. I just dumped my junk bucket and the old ones went to scrap metal. Boy I wish I had measured it. The last time I bought one of them it was about 50 bucks and they were good quality Japanese bearings... made in Japan. /Ken
GaryTheBadger
New member
Has it been determined if aftermarket rear wheel bearings are better than OEM? If so, is there a current list of the recommended aftermarket replacement parts for a complete rear wheel bearing R&R?
Should all the seals and o-rings be replaced at the same time as well? Any special tools required for bearing or seal pulling (as the service manual states)?
Anything else we need to know?
Time estimate start-to-finish for someone mechanically saavy?
This is all for a 2008 GS.
Should all the seals and o-rings be replaced at the same time as well? Any special tools required for bearing or seal pulling (as the service manual states)?
Anything else we need to know?
Time estimate start-to-finish for someone mechanically saavy?
This is all for a 2008 GS.
Last edited:
Freddy
Active member
rear bearings & seals-aftermarket
Driven pulley takes a 30BD40DF2 (double row) Also Known As: 30BG05S5G2DS or 5006-2RS 30x55x23mm.
Wheel takes 2 of 6205 2RS bearings. Seals are 37x55mm two needed but will need OEM as they're an odd size
Three O-rings 15IDx3mm needed and one 60IDx3mm
The O rings and seals are cheap so replace all. Allow a couple of hours, no need to rush. Circlip pliers needed and usual hand tools. The OEM pulley bearing doesn't seem to last terribly long - usually the first of the 3 to go and indicated by belt track moving and/or click/rattle (but this can be caused by other things too.)
Edit: and you'll need a tool of some specific sort to remove one axle bearing.
Driven pulley takes a 30BD40DF2 (double row) Also Known As: 30BG05S5G2DS or 5006-2RS 30x55x23mm.
Wheel takes 2 of 6205 2RS bearings. Seals are 37x55mm two needed but will need OEM as they're an odd size
Three O-rings 15IDx3mm needed and one 60IDx3mm
The O rings and seals are cheap so replace all. Allow a couple of hours, no need to rush. Circlip pliers needed and usual hand tools. The OEM pulley bearing doesn't seem to last terribly long - usually the first of the 3 to go and indicated by belt track moving and/or click/rattle (but this can be caused by other things too.)
Edit: and you'll need a tool of some specific sort to remove one axle bearing.
Last edited:
