RT-S Limp Home!

[Dwight]

Well, it happened to me this afternoon. Got home from work and temp was 50, decided to go for a quick ride. On my way home, about 25 miles out, cruising at 65mph and it just shut off! Coasted down to around 45 - 50 and started running again but wouldn't take throttle. Check engine light was blinking, bike would run about 50 so pulled into a roadside park. Shut it off, waited a few minutes, started it right up but check engine light was still flashing. Noticed in the display that the check engine light would come on 3 or 4 times and then I would get a DPS fault. It bounced back and forth between check engine and DPS until I got home and shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? I'm due for the first service but it's gonna be a Pain in the a-- to trailer it down to the shop. Hope this isn't something that happens very often.

Dwight

 

[Lamonster]

If you want to read the code to give to your dealer before you go do this.

Hold down the "mode" and "set" button
While holding down the "mode" and "set" button push in the turn signal button. Screen will be blank if there is no code.

This will give you the error code numbers for your dealer to look up.

 

[groundeffect]

Well, it happened to me this afternoon. Got home from work and temp was 50, decided to go for a quick ride. On my way home, about 25 miles out, cruising at 65mph and it just shut off! Coasted down to around 45 - 50 and started running again but wouldn't take throttle. Check engine light was blinking, bike would run about 50 so pulled into a roadside park. Shut it off, waited a few minutes, started it right up but check engine light was still flashing. Noticed in the display that the check engine light would come on 3 or 4 times and then I would get a DPS fault. It bounced back and forth between check engine and DPS until I got home and shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? I'm due for the first service but it's gonna be a Pain in the a-- to trailer it down to the shop. Hope this isn't something that happens very often.

Dwight

Curious to know if the steering felt any different before and after the LIMP mode occurred, or after you pulled over and drove off again? Clearly the system things there is something wrong with the Dynamic Power Steering unit/system, as it indicated by the check engine and DPS flashing on the cluster. Did you notice any change, what so ever in the steering (ie: harder to steering - more force required to steering, or any binding of sorts in the handlebar?).


Not sure, but worth a shot - are the relays and fuses all properly seated in their slots in the fuse box(es)? Give them a press in to be sure they are all in their slots and have not loosened or popped out.

Hope that helps. Between this forum and the dealer, I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of the issue one way or another.

Cheers.

 

[dave01]

If you want to read the code to give to your dealer before you go do this.

Great info to know. Thanks Lamont:2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:

 

[SpyderGirl]

My GS did something very similar in the early days of ownership... three times in the same day. Never did it again and the light never came back. I was cruising on the freeway about about 65 - 70 MPH

 

[Dwight]

Thanks for that info Lamont! I'll try that and see what I get. I didn't notice any difference in the steering. Actually didn't notice any differences at all except it was rpm limited. I will also give the fuses and relays a look. I'll call the dealer today while I'm at work, I need to schedule the 600 service and if he got my CB and GPS in I can have that done while it's there. This doesn't do much for my confidence in the RT for the big trip in June. Probably something simple (I hope!).

Dwight

 

[groundeffect]

Thanks for that info Lamont! I'll try that and see what I get. I didn't notice any difference in the steering. Actually didn't notice any differences at all except it was rpm limited. I will also give the fuses and relays a look. I'll call the dealer today while I'm at work, I need to schedule the 600 service and if he got my CB and GPS in I can have that done while it's there. This doesn't do much for my confidence in the RT for the big trip in June. Probably something simple (I hope!).

Dwight

Hi Dwight, thanks for the update. Good to hear the steering didn't feel any different.

Good luck with the service check - it will be interesting to see what codes you great from Lamont's note, and also what the dealer is able to provide with the BUDS computer system hookup.
Good luck and please keep us updated.

Cheers.

 

[2Gunns]

sounds very simular to what happened to me on my intial ride home, Everything you mentioned...then whole screen turned orange. Dealer had me turn bike off, remove key and try again. He was very insistent as to me removing the key. Bazinga...problem averted !

That was at 98 miles odometer, I'm now ready for my 600 mile service and have had ZERO issues since (knock-on-wood).

 

[scdtrd]

Just curious if BRP outsourced any of the "throttle by wire" components from Toyota.... Might have gotten a good deal on them at the time... Just sayin.

 

[Dwight]

Tried the key removal thing, didn't help. I called the service dept, they didn't have any new reports. I'm going to try reading the code when I get home, then call the service tech back and let him know. Maybe he will have some ideas then. Also going to take it in Saturday for the 600 and whatever they have to do to fix it.
I sure hope your joking about the Toyota thing:roflblack: that would just suck!

Dwight

 

[groundeffect]

Tried the key removal thing, didn't help. I called the service dept, they didn't have any new reports. I'm going to try reading the code when I get home, then call the service tech back and let him know. Maybe he will have some ideas then. Also going to take it in Saturday for the 600 and whatever they have to do to fix it.
I sure hope your joking about the Toyota thing:roflblack: that would just suck!

Dwight

Good luck this weekend, Dwight.

 

[krb1945]

check for...

loose fuses. My SM did that one time and the only thing found was a loose fuse in the trunk fuse box. After pushing it back tight... everything started working normally. I don't remember which one it was. Maybe this will help your problem. /Ken

 

[groundeffect]

loose fuses. My SM did that one time and the only thing found was a loose fuse in the trunk fuse box. After pushing it back tight... everything started working normally. I don't remember which one it was. Maybe this will help your problem. /Ken

Hi Ken, does your front fuse box cover have foam installed on it to help keep pressure on the fuses, so they stay in? My RS 2010 SM5 does, from the factory.

Cheers.

 

[Dwight]

Update

OK, got home from work and started up the RT. No check engine light, no DPS fault, everything is ok!! Went ahead and checked both fuse boxes and pushed on all of the fuses and relays. Couldn't tell if any were loose. Checked oil just in case. 40 degrees and rain so I didn't ride it. Not finding anything wrong with it after it sat all night worries me more than finding something! I think I'll wait until next week to take it in for service, that will give me a chance to ride it some more and see if anything happens again. Maybe I need someone to give me a gremlin bell!!

Dwight

 

[Lamonster]

If you want to read the code to give to your dealer before you go do this.

Hold down the "mode" and "set" button
While holding down the "mode" and "set" button press thee "PTT" button.

This will give you the error code numbers for your dealer to look up.

I just tried this on my RT and it didn't work. I made a call and either it didn't show a code because I don't have any codes to show or maybe you have to hit the PTT button 5 times real fast to get it to work "if" you have a code. As soon as I know for sure what the deal is I'll let you know.

 

[Dwight]

I did try that to see if I had any codes, couldn't get anything to come up. Same deal, maybe I didn't have any codes? Let us know if you come up with some other way.

Thanks
Dwight

 

[bikeguy]

The shop manual I ordered off eBay says to read the codes by holding down "mode" "set" and push the "turn signal" button. My Spyder hasn't come in yet so I can't try it to see if it works. Incidentally, the manual also gives you a chart showing what the codes indicate.

Cotton

 

[Lamonster]

The shop manual I ordered off eBay says to read the codes by holding down "mode" "set" and push the "turn signal" button. My Spyder hasn't come in yet so I can't try it to see if it works. Incidentally, the manual also gives you a chart showing what the codes indicate.

Cotton

It could be they changed t on the production units. Mine is now up to production specs so maybe that's why it's not working the old way. I'll try it the other way. Thanks.

 

[Wheeler~]

Well, it happened to me this afternoon. Got home from work and temp was 50, decided to go for a quick ride. On my way home, about 25 miles out, cruising at 65mph and it just shut off! Coasted down to around 45 - 50 and started running again but wouldn't take throttle. Check engine light was blinking, bike would run about 50 so pulled into a roadside park. Shut it off, waited a few minutes, started it right up but check engine light was still flashing. Noticed in the display that the check engine light would come on 3 or 4 times and then I would get a DPS fault. It bounced back and forth between check engine and DPS until I got home and shut it off. Anybody got any ideas? I'm due for the first service but it's gonna be a Pain in the a-- to trailer it down to the shop. Hope this isn't something that happens very often.

Dwight

I'm experiencing some of the same problems, At first, around 650 miles to about 1100 miles, my check engine light came on about 5 times and stayed on between 30 seconds and about five minutes but then always disappeared. I took it into the dealership and a diagnostic check showed the engine had been lugged 207 times. I've noticed in Cruise Control mode it seems to have to work to maintain the set cruise speed on even the slightest incline. Since then, between 1100 miles and the 1364 miles I have on it today, that DPS light, the one with the red circle with the exclamation point in it, has shown up twice for about 30 seconds each time. The dealership contacted BRP about the diagnostic and BRP said I need to bring in my bike until the dealership experiences the same warning lights and they experience the lugging. I have a couple of rides planned and Bike Week Daytona coming up and told the dealership I'd bring it in after these events. They said that shouldn't be a problem. I sure hope it won't be!

 

[NancysToy]

I'm experiencing some of the same problems, At first, around 650 miles to about 1100 miles, my check engine light came on about 5 times and stayed on between 30 seconds and about five minutes but then always disappeared. I took it into the dealership and a diagnostic check showed the engine had been lugged 207 times. I've noticed in Cruise Control mode it seems to have to work to maintain the set cruise speed on even the slightest incline. Since then, between 1100 miles and the 1364 miles I have on it today, that DPS light, the one with the red circle with the exclamation point in it, has shown up twice for about 30 seconds each time. The dealership contacted BRP about the diagnostic and BRP said I need to bring in my bike until the dealership experiences the same warning lights and they experience the lugging. I have a couple of rides planned and Bike Week Daytona coming up and told the dealership I'd bring it in after these events. They said that shouldn't be a problem. I sure hope it won't be!

I am not sure how a diagnostic shows actual lugging, unless by that they mean rpm below the idle setting...or knock sensors going off. The DPS warning indicates something more than mere low rpm excursions under load, though. I would not trust it for a trip, no matter how disappointing. Meanwhile, here are a couple of other things to consider:

1. I had trouble with spark plug fouling. It will make the Spyder start poorly and idle poorly...or even stall. It could also cause "lugging" and poor performance. Pays to check or replace.

2. Be sure you are running the recommended premium fuel. If the knock sensors cut back the timing to compensate for a lower grade fuel, I suppose it could be interpreted by the diagnostics (or the tech) as "lugging".

Let us know how you make out.