2018 RT Ltd won't shift up - could it be LH Switch/Control module? Anyone else? Other possibilities?

[Billybob@1]

18 RT Limited, sometimes it won't shift into 1st. Will always go into Reverse, but to get it back to Neutral, I have to shut it off and turn it back on. Also, some times when driving it will take off ok, then mid way thru the shifting it won't up shift again. Then other times it's fine. Dealer isn't sure but is guessing it's the LH switch for a $980 installed price tag. Oil is clean and full, battery is new, reverse bracket and mechanism looks fine. When it's acting up, I can't hear it shift.

 

[mecsw500]

It's possible they are known to be intermittent or even just plain fail sometimes.

Before you replace it, give the contacts a good blast with electrical contact cleaner.

I knew those things were expensive, I hope that includes labor.

 

[Billybob@1]

It does include labor, but won't say for sure this is what is wrong. Pretty expensive for a no guarantee guess! Anyone else ran across this? Love the bike, but a grand guess is scary.

 

[Woodaddict]

Yes, there have been a few run into this problem. If you're good at taking things apart, take the left hand control apart and look at things inside.

There are other posts about this and even more direct instructions of what people have done to clean and fix this.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

18 RT Limited, sometimes it won't shift into 1st. Will always go into Reverse, but to get it back to Neutral, I have to shut it off and turn it back on. Also, some times when driving it will take off ok, then mid way thru the shifting it won't up shift again. Then other times it's fine. Dealer isn't sure but is guessing it's the LH switch for a $980 installed price tag. Oil is clean and full, battery is new, reverse bracket and mechanism looks fine. When it's acting up, I can't hear it shift.

This was a known problem with the 2018 F3 and RT machines. The left hand multi-function switch is a CANBUS module. You can take it apart or spray whatever kind of junk in there that you want, it doesn't matter. The problem is a computer/communications issue between the module and the system. These switches are not discrete switches that you picture in your mind. By 2018, they are those little covered circuit board looking deals. Pads. Unfortunately for you, the window has closed for the warranty campaign that would get BRP to pay for it. The only solution for you is switch replacement. Sorry. Your dealer is not BS'ing you. Refer to the attached document.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10144016-9999.pdf

 

[Billybob@1]

Yes, there have been a few run into this problem. If you're good at taking things apart, take the left hand control apart and look at things inside.

There are other posts about this and even more direct instructions of what people have done to clean and fix this.

Thanks for the feedback, do you know what post they were?

This was a known problem with the 2018 F3 and RT machines. The left hand multi-function switch is a CANBUS module. You can take it apart or spray whatever kind of junk in there that you want, it doesn't matter. The problem is a computer/communications issue between the module and the system. These switches are not discrete switches that you picture in your mind. By 2018, they are those little covered circuit board looking deals. Pads. Unfortunately for you, the window has closed for the warranty campaign that would get BRP to pay for it. The only solution for you is switch replacement. Sorry. Your dealer is not BS'ing you. Refer to the attached document.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10144016-9999.pdf

Thank you Snowbelt for the info. I see the switch part number 710006...


Sorry, I see the switch 710006574 in the campaign has now been replaced by 710008164, so even the switch they installed during the campaign is now obsolete. Is there any aftermarket switch that anyone knows about? Or is there any way to permanently fix the original one? Thank you for the help.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I know. The thought of putting 1000 bucks into this thing sucks. But, after 8 years, if that’s the worst it was, then you’ve done alright. Watch this video from time 8:30. Then you’ll see why there is nothing in there that you can clean, spray, adjust, repair, or replace for an electrical problem with that switch. You’ll also see why the labor cost is 300 bucks. Believe me, I hope you and your dealer can discover a different problem. But history really isn't on your side, there. Nobody else makes a replacement switch. Good luck.

 

[Billybob@1]

I know. The thought of putting 1000 bucks into this thing sucks. But, after 8 years, if that’s the worst it was, then you’ve done alright. Watch this video from time 8:30. Then you’ll see why there is nothing in there that you can clean, spray, adjust, repair, or replace for an electrical problem with that switch. You’ll also see why the labor cost is 300 bucks. Believe me, I hope you and your dealer can discover a different problem. But history really isn't on your side, there. Nobody else makes a replacement switch. Good luck.

Thank you for the help, was hoping there was a better route to go. It's still a dealership doing a recall on the drive gear assy, hopefully they find a loose connection. Lol

 

[mecsw500]

Did you try:

?

Beware, the little ball bearings can easily go for a walk.

 

[Billybob@1]

Did you try:

?

Beware, the little ball bearings can easily go for a walk.

I'll check it out. Thanks for the advice.