No tail lights or brake lights after installing LED's - any ideas?

[Accord911]

I took off my fairing to paint it and put it back on. I then put some led lights on it. Now I turned the key and dashboard. I pushed on the Cluster and the gauges started working. I notice my tail lights are not working. On the right fuse block, the second to the last fuse makes the third to the last fuse come on. I'm need help.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Just a thought, might not help any, but it could be worth a shot...

LED's will only work if they're connected with the polarity wired the right way, so if you've reversed the polarity on them by installing them backwards, they won't work. Maybe you should try swapping them around?!

 

[Hypurone]

Hmmm, the way I read this it sounds like you have done some wiring that is not kosher on those LED's where they tie in for power. I would remove that connection and rethink how it is made and/or move it to another lighting source...

 

[Snoking1127]

I took off my fairing to paint it and put it back on. I then put some led lights on it. Now I turned the key and dashboard. I pushed on the Cluster and the gauges started working. I notice my tail lights are not working. On the right fuse block, the second to the last fuse makes the third to the last fuse come on. I'm need help.

Maybe you should clarify the above statement, as it does not read well. Are these new front LED driving lights? Did you cut into wires and splice things? Fuse block statement is about as confusing as the other statements.

 

[srteach]

Isn't the lighting on the Spyders a CANBUS? If so and you spliced wires or took signals incorrectly, it could cause this.

 

[Snoking1127]

Isn't the lighting on the Spyders a CANBUS? If so and you spliced wires or took signals incorrectly, it could cause this.

Thread 'A little Can Bus tutorial'

Jan 11, 2016

There has been some misunderstanding here about what the Can Bus is and isn't on our Spyders, and what it affects. CAN refers to Controller Area Network. Can Bus generally refers to a communication protocol among various components on the Spyder. Here is a overview of the network.

Brake lights, tail lights, and headlights all are powered by 12 volt lines controlled by switches and relays. Turn signals are the only lights tied into the Can Bus, and then not directly. TS are operated by the cluster which...

• IdahoMtnSpyder
• Replies: 36
• Forum: Spyder General Discussion

 

[srteach]

Thread 'A little Can Bus tutorial'

Jan 11, 2016

There has been some misunderstanding here about what the Can Bus is and isn't on our Spyders, and what it affects. CAN refers to Controller Area Network. Can Bus generally refers to a communication protocol among various components on the Spyder. Here is a overview of the network.

Brake lights, tail lights, and headlights all are powered by 12 volt lines controlled by switches and relays. Turn signals are the only lights tied into the Can Bus, and then not directly. TS are operated by the cluster which...

• IdahoMtnSpyder
• Replies: 36
• Forum: Spyder General Discussion

Got it.
So, unless the added lights are turn signals, no effect from CANBUS.

 

[Accord911]

Maybe you should clarify the above statement, as it does not read well. Are these new front LED driving lights? Did you cut into wires and splice things? Fuse block statement is about as confusing as the other statements.

I'm sorry, I read it and it wasn't clear. I took all my panels off to get painted at the paint shop, then I took off my fairing to paint it because it has a mold for single din stereo. I had led lights on my bike, I took them off to replace them because they were old. I tapped into the brake wire because my new lights had a brake wire so when I apply the brakes everything turns red. Next I put my fairing back on the bike and turned the key, the dash didn't light up so I shook the wires behind the Cluster and everything started working but my tail lights, head lights and brake lights. I then unplugged the led lights but nothing changed. I tested the fuses on the right side of the bike and fuses F1 and F2 are reading 3 volts. My old led lights were on F1 but they don't work on F1 because of the voltage so I put them on another constant fuse and they work fine. Also, I took that apart from the front to the back looking for a wire that's shorting, I found nothing touching or unplugged. Please help.

Ps: The added lights do have a turn signal wire and the turn signals work fine with the led lights on both sides. I was looking at my bike this morning and I remembered, I added another antenna to my radio and there was a flat silver wire on the right side that was bolted to the old antenna ground and now it's not connected. Will this affect my lights?

 

[Accord911]

...

Ps: The added lights do have a turn signal wire and the turn signals work fine with the led lights on both sides. I was looking at my bike this morning and I remembered, I added another antenna to my radio and there was a flat silver wire on the right side that was bolted to the old antenna ground and now it's not connected. Will this affect my lights?

I grounded the strap but no lights came on.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Have you actually tried swapping the polarity anywhere?? Maybe even on the Spyder end?

More than one member here has been caught out by the Spyder's wiring being the reverse of what it's meant to be &/or what the documentation says it should be, and swapping the polarity shouldn't hurt the LED's either individually or as a kit; but the bottom line is that if you've got one LED or a string of LED's connected the wrong way around, they just won't work, even if the filament globes you just took out of that circuit all worked a moment before.

So again, I'd suggest you check the polarity of your LED's - heck, if you're concerned, just connect the + & - wires of the kit &/or each individual LED in turn to a suitably fused lead direct from the battery; and if they don't work one way, try them the other way! At the very least, you'll establish that the LED's in the kit DO actually work... or not! And along the way, you juuuust might find out why they don't work the way you've currently got them installed.

It shouldn't take long, and it shouldn't hurt anything - LED's connected with their polarity the wrong way around don't blow, they just don't work, exactly what you've told us they're doing at the moment. And even if they still don't work, you will have positively exclude polarity as being an issue.

 

[Accord911]

Have you actually tried swapping the polarity anywhere?? Maybe even on the Spyder end?

More than one member here has been caught out by the Spyder's wiring being the reverse of what it's meant to be &/or what the documentation says it should be, and swapping the polarity shouldn't hurt the LED's either individually or as a kit; but the bottom line is that if you've got one LED or a string of LED's connected the wrong way around, they just won't work, even if the filament globes you just took out of that circuit all worked a moment before.

So again, I'd suggest you check the polarity of your LED's - heck, if you're concerned, just connect the + & - wires of the kit &/or each individual LED in turn to a suitably fused lead direct from the battery; and if they don't work one way, try them the other way! At the very least, you'll establish that the LED's in the kit DO actually work... or not! And along the way, you juuuust might find out why they don't work the way you've currently got them installed.

It shouldn't take long, and it shouldn't hurt anything - LED's connected with their polarity the wrong way around don't blow, they just don't work, exactly what you've told us they're doing at the moment. And even if they still don't work, you will have positively exclude polarity as being an issue.

My leds works find, my headlights, tail lights and brake lights in the back don't work. Fuse F1 and F2 has 3 volts. That's my problem.