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Towing - To cover, or not to cover?

doncanfix2

Member
Hello All towing enthusiasts! I've read the previous threads on this topic so please don't ping me on that! A year ago I bought a gently used '21 Stinger (Thanks again John M.) to haul the RT behind our motorhome. Now that I have some experience doing that, uncovered as most recommend, I see the bike gets really dirty but no rock damage, yet! On our longest trip so far, all interstate, we drove through a heavy rainstorm on the way back from Myrtle Beach last year, what a mess! Even on dry runs she gets nasty dirty. So me is athinkin', how to protect better, and I have a few ideas? But covered would be so much easier were it not for the abrasion from cover buffeting. So I ask, who out there has covered in transit and regretted it? I am thinking of covering, and with additional straps, but first using a Track Tape Wrap in critical areas. Ideas?
Track Tape Wrap.jpg - Bay Star w_Spyder in tow lowres.jpg
 
I ride it wherever I go so I'm not confronted with the should I, shouldn't I. I have also ridden for multiple hours in absolutely frog strangling rain and my roadster has come out quite filthy, but I'd rather wash a filthy Spyder than discover what a flapping cover can do to a roadster finish. It's your money and your toy.
 
Sue and I towed our Spyder from Maine to Yellowstone this May and we did not cover it. We encountered rain and snow. No issues. Towed Spyder over 6,000 miles.


Trailer.jpg - Trailer1.jpg
 
The low pressure zone formed behind your RV would be sucking dirt etc. in as you drive, so the best solution would be to fully enclose (all 6 sides) your trailer. Not the cheapest, but the best.

If you can't/won't do that, then TapeManBlue Plastic Protection film should help as long as it'll stay attached at highway speeds. Otherwise, leave it uncovered & plan to have to give it a good clean on arrival.
 
We've towed our 2020 RTL, on our 12' alum trailer, behind our Winnebago View several times now this year. We had one bad experience with rain going from Az to Co this last spring (May 2025). I've described the issue from back then here:


Long story short - It rained hard all the way there, then after we arrived and fired up the Spyder, we heard an extremely loud static noise coming out of the dash speakers. Nothing I could think of solved it (switching music sources, volume all the way off, fader etc.) Ended up disconnecting the front speakers for the time we were there. After getting home and things drying out, I hooked the speakers back up and it hasn't happened since. It may have been too much water hitting the amp connections.

Last month, I finally got around to wrapping some diamond plate around the front of the trailer (see pics). It's still quite low, but I'm hoping it helps some anyway. Haven't hit bad weather again since that trip (yet). Plan to add this nylon curtain splash guard:


to the back of the RV in hopes that will help some as well.

No experience with Track Tape, but just took a look at it on Amazon, and the reviews were not very favorable (leaving sticky residue, etc.) Maybe others have had better luck.

An enclosed trailer would be the best solution, if money and storage space were not an issue.

As far as the finish goes (aka terribly soft OEM paint and clear coat), I plan on adding ceramic coating to the painted surfaces in the next few weeks, in the hope that that too, will help when trailering. I would still not open trailer it with a fabric cover.

Great looking motorhome and Spyder BTW!!

20250727_090007.jpg - 20250727_085948.jpg
 
We've towed our 2020 RTL, on our 12' alum trailer, behind our Winnebago View several times now this year. We had one bad experience with rain going from Az to Co this last spring (May 2025). I've described the issue from back then here:


Long story short - It rained hard all the way there, then after we arrived and fired up the Spyder, we heard an extremely loud static noise coming out of the dash speakers. Nothing I could think of solved it (switching music sources, volume all the way off, fader etc.) Ended up disconnecting the front speakers for the time we were there. After getting home and things drying out, I hooked the speakers back up and it hasn't happened since. It may have been too much water hitting the amp connections.

Last month, I finally got around to wrapping some diamond plate around the front of the trailer (see pics). It's still quite low, but I'm hoping it helps some anyway. Haven't hit bad weather again since that trip (yet). Plan to add this nylon curtain splash guard:


to the back of the RV in hopes that will help some as well.

No experience with Track Tape, but just took a look at it on Amazon, and the reviews were not very favorable (leaving sticky residue, etc.) Maybe others have had better luck.

An enclosed trailer would be the best solution, if money and storage space were not an issue.

As far as the finish goes (aka terribly soft OEM paint and clear coat), I plan on adding ceramic coating to the painted surfaces in the next few weeks, in the hope that that too, will help when trailering. I would still not open trailer it with a fabric cover.

Great looking motorhome and Spyder BTW!!

View attachment 251130 - View attachment 251131
Mine rides on a Primo trailer also. Hooker was trailered from Az to Wa and back twice and now Hookie is going to take that role now that Hooker was sold. Never covered.

Mine rides on a Primo trailer also. Hooker was trailered from Az to Wa and back twice and now Hookie is going to take that role now that Hooker was sold. Never covered.
Here's a couple of things I learned along the way. The Spyder does not like to back over the Erickson wheel chocks behind the front tires and one has to be very careful that the Erickson straps are locked into the tracks correctly. I replaced the front tire rear chocks with flat Erickson plates. So on long trips, I use belt and suspenders. Back in 2021, I turned around the front lower bolt and used SS ring in place on the nut to create a strapping point.
 
Here's a couple of things I learned along the way. The Spyder does not like to back over the Erickson wheel chocks behind the front tires and one has to be very careful that the Erickson straps are locked into the tracks correctly. I replaced the front tire rear chocks with flat Erickson plates. So on long trips, I use belt and suspenders. Back in 2021, I turned around the front lower bolt and used SS ring in place on the nut to create a strapping point.
I did not use chocks for the rear tire because of the backing over things issue. I used a milled Nylon cutting board to create a wider area for the rear tire to sit on. You can actually see the black rubber on the e-track where I tried to back out of wheel chocks behind the front tires. This was before adding the Nylon pieces.

Mine rides on a Primo trailer also. Hooker was trailered from Az to Wa and back twice and now Hookie is going to take that role now that Hooker was sold. Never covered.
The 12 foot trailer was a result of towing the Spyder North the summer of 2021 after my wife passed, as the vehicle I had at that point was a Ford Edge ST (twin turbo 2.7L V6) and I need the space to carry more "stuff" for the summer in Washington, and installed the box in front of the Spyder. Well that turned out to have been a good decision, as another tow vehicle and toy entered my life.
 
So many great thoughts from everyone, thanks!! But more thoughts on that later!

However on the tie-down method, I found this has worked great for the front! My initial method was using straps, but that has its limitations so I went with turnbuckles; all hardware is 304SS. Since the Stinger has NO axle suspension, tying to the Spyder wheels/suspension is mandatory! The rear wheel has one strap (and a secondary looser, backup) going through the wheel and between the spokes (no pic yet), but I lined the wheel with a custom-cut 1/4" thick layer of EPDM rubber sheet to avoid abrasion from the strap. There are no suspension hard points on the rear, or anything that could easily be added, so I relented and went through the wheel. My overall objective with my fastening methods were to: 1) make it safe & secure, 2) avoid wheel abrasion, and 3) make it quick to attach/remove. The only thing that might make the front quicker is the Quik-load turnbuckle (nothing found in SS!). Anyone in the future looking for further guidance, I have a lot more pictures and am always willing to share methods and material acquisition ideas. Once an engineer, always an engineer!

Front Shackles 240702.jpg - Front Shackle lowres 240702.jpg

Original Tie-down Method lowres 240618.jpg - BQL-both.jpg
 
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