Idahorider
New member
Can the battery be changed to lithium?
Pros and cons?
Pros and cons?
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Can the Spyder's battery be changed to lithium? Pro's & Con's?
- Thread starter Idahorider
- Start date
Idahorider
New member
Can the battery have a amp hour rating higher than the spec listed 21
racoon
Well-known member
Yes, just not lower.
BajaRon
Well-known member
A battery is a battery. The ECU doesn't know, or care, where the juice is coming from. It only cares that the voltage is correct and if there is enough of it. The Spyder is power greedy so it pays to get a good battery. A lithium battery will work just fine if you follow the advice given above.
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CloverHillCrawler
Well-known member
I recently changed over and quite frankly I haven't seen any cons yet.
But I do not have a lot of equipment and lighting so I don't have any issues.
In the case of the noco I bought from lamonster along with the genius 2 charger I am plenty happy with it in the manner that I use it.
Basically with the noco you get a higher cold cranking amperage and it is a lot lighter than the OEM battery but with that comes a trade off with capacity where the lithium has less capacity.
So if I were to have an RT or a F3T or L with a lot more lighting and some people throw on amps for audio, lightning, lcd displays ,chargers,heaters and yada yada yada.
Basically with the heavier load I would stay with a lead acid for the additional capacity to drive those items without depleting the capacity of the battery.
Hope this helps.
But I do not have a lot of equipment and lighting so I don't have any issues.
In the case of the noco I bought from lamonster along with the genius 2 charger I am plenty happy with it in the manner that I use it.
Basically with the noco you get a higher cold cranking amperage and it is a lot lighter than the OEM battery but with that comes a trade off with capacity where the lithium has less capacity.
So if I were to have an RT or a F3T or L with a lot more lighting and some people throw on amps for audio, lightning, lcd displays ,chargers,heaters and yada yada yada.
Basically with the heavier load I would stay with a lead acid for the additional capacity to drive those items without depleting the capacity of the battery.
Hope this helps.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Pros of a Lithium Battery:
1-Much Lighter
2-Typically more power
3-Will give you 100% of it's rating until it's nearly dead (Lead Acid will start to fall off of it's rated capacity almost as soon as it starts discharging)
4-Life span is usually better than Lead Acid if maintained well
5-Self discharge is less than Lead Acid
6-Less susceptible to parasitic drawdown because of #3
Cons of a Lithium Batter:
1-Good ones can be much more expensive
2-Have been know to catch fire or explode. Especially if damaged or defective (though this has largely been addressed)
3-Can be more affected by extreme temperatures than lead acid (but this also applies to Lead Acid to a lesser degree)
1-Much Lighter
2-Typically more power
3-Will give you 100% of it's rating until it's nearly dead (Lead Acid will start to fall off of it's rated capacity almost as soon as it starts discharging)
4-Life span is usually better than Lead Acid if maintained well
5-Self discharge is less than Lead Acid
6-Less susceptible to parasitic drawdown because of #3
Cons of a Lithium Batter:
1-Good ones can be much more expensive
2-Have been know to catch fire or explode. Especially if damaged or defective (though this has largely been addressed)
3-Can be more affected by extreme temperatures than lead acid (but this also applies to Lead Acid to a lesser degree)
Bfromla
Well-known member
Understand that end of functionality, however please someone explain how needs specific charger but not screw up with alternator charging??!
Can you explain why a higher capacity battery is needed? Seems to me that these additional loads are switched on only while the motor is running. And while the motor is running, the alternator is providing all the power to run all the loads on the bike, plus keep the battery charged. Am I missing something?
CloverHillCrawler
Well-known member
Technically yes it would be charged by the alternator while running, but what if you were to have a lot of short start/stop cycles where the battery doesn't get enough time to fully charge in between stops. Each time you start you are pulling off the capacity of the battery.
And as I stated it would just be my own personal preference if I owned a Spyder that was running more electrical accessories. And as Ron Stated above "The Spyder is power greedy so it pays to get a good battery."
troop
Well-known member
Might this probably be the best Lith Ion for a power hungry Spyder?
antigravitybatteries.com
ATX20-HD Lithium Motorsports Battery
Hi-Power lightweight ATX20-HD lithium motorcycle/powersports battery. HEAVY DUTY version with 780 CA. Replace lead/acid YTX20, YTX15, more
antigravitybatteries.com
BajaRon
Well-known member
A good point. That is why you need to get a "smart lithium" battery with a built-in BMS (Battery Management System). This is basicially a built in converter which delivers the correct DC voltage and current that the lithium battery needs.
Not necessarily needed. Just better. If you're replacing the battery anyway, why not go better if you can. The Spyder has a relatively high parasitic draw. This means you're battery is being depleted at a significant rate when parked compared to most other vehicles. A fully charged battery on a tender or maintainer is one answer. But a more powerful battery can't hurt.
Lithium, with its ability to deliver rated power even when depleted, is an advantage. Especially with the power hungry Spyder.
I have this in mine, the only negative is the initial cost $400. on amazon! I have used them in all my bikes for years without problems, it works fine in my lowly old tech KLR650...Might this probably be the best Lith Ion for a power hungry Spyder?
ATX20-HD Lithium Motorsports Battery
Hi-Power lightweight ATX20-HD lithium motorcycle/powersports battery. HEAVY DUTY version with 780 CA. Replace lead/acid YTX20, YTX15, more
I tried a Bosch battery. Didn't fit the hold down and was a nightmare trying to fit. It's not the same size. Tried an Amazon battery, no luck either. Went back to my standard NAPA
BajaRon
Well-known member
Precise dimensions are given for batteries. It is a good idea to check size before purchasing.
Leroy73
Member
I had terrible luck with lithium battery in my Honda VTX. It was the correct size. The issue was in 50F temp it took several tries to get the engine to spin fast enough to start. Acted like a bad battery. Worked fine at 70F and above.
Later I learned in colder temps one must crank it a few times to warm up the battery. When the starter is turning slow because of a low battery there is a real danger of ruining the starter after repeated use.
I went back to the tried and true AGM, no problems. Starts first attempt at 17F.
Later I learned in colder temps one must crank it a few times to warm up the battery. When the starter is turning slow because of a low battery there is a real danger of ruining the starter after repeated use.
I went back to the tried and true AGM, no problems. Starts first attempt at 17F.
EdMat
Well-known member
You can also just turn on the lights for a few minutes. Anything to get the battery actively working.
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