Ryker turning left Issues

[DickB]

I also filed a report.

Installation instructions for the Steering Update Kit are here:

https://brp.my.salesforce-sites.com/ISPublicArticleInfo/apex/BWLightningViewerWithTranslate?#id=kA03x000000YsSRCA0&googtrans(en|en_US)

Visit https://instructions.brp.com/e-instruction.html#tab=1 and enter the kit part number 219800513.

You have to remove suspension components to install the kit. Replacing the SAS is much less involved.

Due to the shape of the Ryker fuel tank and placement of the float, there are huge dead spots in the fuel gauge reading. If you add fuel at 1 bar, you will still have fuel at least partially covering the fuel pump, which helps keep it cool.

 

[gbyoung2]

Interesting - the NHTSA says my VIN isn't valid. BRP knows it's correct when I had to change the previous owners name to mine for their records.

I'll try again tomorrow.

 

[nightfalcon]

Seeing how BRP allegedly upgraded MY22+ Rykers, they are surely aware of the problem. Has anyone gone to them directly with a query? I ask this because I went to head office over the fuel pump recall, and whilst not entirely happy with the outcome, they did listen and provided me with some compensation... which I'm not allowed to discuss, but it wasn't insignificant.

 

[greer]

I did. Never got past the lady who answered the phone. She gave me a case number and told me to contact my dealer. My bike never threw a code and the service tech couldn't replicate the issue. I don't blame the dealership, I do believe they did their best but it was just a waste of time.

Sarah

 

[gbyoung2]

Interesting - the NHTSA says my VIN isn't valid. BRP knows it's correct when I had to change the previous owners name to mine for their records.

I'll try again tomorrow.

Successfully completed the recall forms today. They musta shut off their computers when they left last Friday evening due to the long holiday w/e.

 

[gbyoung2]

Showtime!

My BUDS2 and Steering Update Kit just arrived. Gonna be a thrash so I can get this thing fixed in time for me to ride it to WV in a few weeks. HOPEFULLY, the SAS will be okay.

 

[greer]

Eat your Wheaties, if it goes anything like my install you'll be working through lunch. I'd be interested to know if your factory assembly has the little shim you'll see in the kit. Good luck, and please keep us posted.

Sarah

 

[gbyoung2]

Eat your Wheaties, if it goes anything like my install you'll be working through lunch. I'd be interested to know if your factory assembly has the little shim you'll see in the kit. Good luck, and please keep us posted.

Sarah

I was wondering about that and was going to make sure to take note.

A lot going on right now, so I will probably take a couple of days to get through it.

Curious tho', did ya'll actually remove the radiator, or just move it as the instructions indicated? Also, did the kit correct your LH turn signal not cancelling?

YIA TIA, and will keep the collective informed on how it goes.

 

[DickB]

I just moved the radiator. Self cancelling was fixed.

 

[greer]

I just moved the radiator out of the way. The job is more time consuming than difficult, except for the bearings. I was at a loss there and had to call in an extra set of hands and better smarts. Hopefully I’ll know more about the SAS when I take my bike in for the sensor check/reset Thursday.

Sarah

 

[gbyoung2]

Asinine engineering…… and that’s all I have to say about that.

With that out of my system, I got started on the steering update install Monday morning and managed to get the machine stripped down to the point where it was time to disconnect the RH side steering link from the Pitman arm where the SAS is mounted. Backup a step - if they were saying to remove the SAS unit by removing the 7mm fastener hardware, forget about it. I have 7mm tools, but there was no way in Hades I could access the lower 7mm nuts. I loosened and removed the 10mm stuff instead so I could pull it off. Removing the electrical tray was also fun, but I finally got it free.

My stopping point Monday was trying to loosen and remove the nut that secured the steering rod to the bottom end of the Pitman arm. Main problem was that I didn’t have a ratcheting 15mm combination wrench, or any decent 15mm wrench - period. The other problem was just trying to gain access to the thing so I could get decent purchase on it so the nut could be removed.

Corrected the wrench issue Tuesday morning with a trip to Home Depot. Even with the 15mm wrench, decent access was still a challenge. My solution was to jack up the RH side of the vehicle and remove the top shock mount bolt so I could swing it out of the way enough to get to the rod’s nut with clearance for movement on the other end of the wrench. Keeping the RH tire from swinging in on me when wrench pressure was applied, was taken care of with a very large box wrench positioned on top of the Pitman arm and held in place to keep things from moving. Fortunately, I had thinned open end wrenches from previous motorcycle jobs to keep the inner piece of the steering joints from turning when their respective nuts were loosened and removed.

The last piece of the puzzle was removing the frame’s aluminum cross piece that supported all the steering parts. Accessing the buried nuts in the steel frame was entertaining and brought out my 10mm Metric crowfoot tool I hadn’t used in years to keep the nuts from turning. That final piece saw full daylight Tuesday afternoon. Once I get the new kit bits installed on the Pitman arm shaft, we’ll start piece this thing back together. That’ll probably happen Wednesday.

Found it interesting that the intermediate rod had two (2) hardened steel washers (506152582) on both ends, where the Pitman arm’s steering rod end had none. The BRP parts diagram shows that they’re supposed to be there.

Wednesday morning. Just pulled the bearings and single spacer from the Pitman arm shaft. The P2 spacer had not been mounted by their supposed in-house update, ‘cause it twern’t there. Also, my steeve did not look all that bad, so not sure if it was the root cause of my weird left turn handling fits. Guess we’ll see once I piece this puppy back together…… which should be interesting.

Need to determine if the new sleeve has to go in the shaft in any particular position. Looks like it can go in two ways, 180 degrees apart from one another. Comments welcome from those who have gone through this process.

Guy
PS: No beers were harmed during the above procedure.