BajaRon
Well-known member
No, don't put anti-seize on the backing plate. These are the anti-seize products I use. Both work well and for the average person, will last a very long time. Any quality product will do you well.
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Brake pad rubbing noise - what is the correct way to fix this?
- Thread starter Allen42
- Start date
No, don't put anti-seize on the backing plate. These are the anti-seize products I use. Both work well and for the average person, will last a very long time. Any quality product will do you well.
Just a side note. I would suck out some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder if it were full. If not then when you compress the pistons it may make the master cylinder overflow and cause a mess that's not good and difficult to clean up. I hate spilling brake fluid. :gaah:
WRCLVR
Member
HA! I have both in my garage... have been using them for many years. Great stuff.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
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Ok since you both have both, and in my never-ending quest to learn stuff... Why do you have both? When would you choose copper vs aluminum?
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I am happy to report that I have successfully torn down both front brakes, lightly sanded the pads, applied the red stop squeal stuff (note to others…the “liberal” application in the instructions just means “more than super thin”… I squished a lot back out and had quite a mess to deal with when putting the backing plate back on), and lubed the back of the plates, the pin, and the metal on metal contact point on the edge of the pad “hooks” and where the tension spring thing contacts the pin and edge of the pads.
For now, all noises, including that nasty squeal during low speed braking, is gone!
My next project will be to buy and replace all pads, and to hunt down and eliminate the small squeak in the brake pedal or spring.
For now, all noises, including that nasty squeal during low speed braking, is gone!
My next project will be to buy and replace all pads, and to hunt down and eliminate the small squeak in the brake pedal or spring.
BajaRon
Well-known member
"Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm". Winston Churchill
BajaRon
Well-known member
I so badly wanted to report that I greased both sides of my rotors, and the noise has completely stopped, but I was afraid someone would take me seriously, and I'd end up in court.ray: :roflblack:
You jest, but I had a customer put disk quiet gel on the friction pad side.
I knew a guy that used his cd drive tray as a coffee cup holder. That didn't last long. He complained to me about the flimsy construction.
I have a picture, somewhere, of a guy who applied copious amounts of thermal paste to the pin side of his CPU. So, you're not far off.
Which brings to mind the saying that, 'If it can be done, it will be done. And if it can't be done, someone will try anyway.'
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Well now you've started it... grab a chair by the fire:
I was working tech support for a Fortune 100 company when PCs switched from using 5 1/4" floppies to the 3.5" harder "floppies". Our procedure was to answer the incoming call, and try to solve it over the phone, then go to their desk if it could not be resolved via the phone.
A senior employee calls in that the PC won't read her data. I quickly determined she wasn't very tech savvy, and was extremely frustrated, so I volunteered to come up and have a look. When I got there, she had FOLDED a 5.25 floppy and shoved it into the 3.5 slot as far as she could. When I regained my composure and figured out a polite way of asking her why she did that, she said "computers are all magic, I assumed if I got it in there, the computer would figure out how to read it." Needless to say, she was very unhappy when her data could not be recovered at all.
I have plenty of others, but that one is still my favorite.
Second, was the time I have my back to a computer 101 type of class, holding my mouse in the air for all to see, demonstrating that if I want the pointer on the screen to move to the top left, I move my mouse up and to the left. I tell the class to try it, and watch their pointer move, and to let me know if they have any problems. One guys hollers for me. I turn around, and he's holding his mouse in the air as well.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I blew my knee out in 75. Put me out of commission for quite some time. Actually 13 months to be more precise. I built a computer from components with not just 1, but 2 5-1/4 floppy drives. High end, in those days, and started to learn. Pretty much all day, every day. Not much else to do with a hamburger knee.
When I finally got back to the fire department, we had upgraded from pencil and paper to computers and I quickly became the unofficial IT guy for our county. Seeing as our official IT help came out of Sacramento. Slow and not that helpful. Had a guy call me one day saying that his keyboard stopped working suddenly. These were wired keyboards so pretty bullet proof. I went through some standard checks over the phone. None of which were successful. Then he tells me that he sat on it. Information that I could have used at the front end of our phone conversation.
Had another machine that needed a MB replaced. Ordered the parts to be sent to that station and set up a time to travel out and do the install. When I arrived the captain said he had a wiz kid that already installed the MB but that it was defective. Upon checking, I found that he had failed to use the standoffs supplied. Having bolted the MB without these, the copious solder points on the back were smashed hard against the steel case. I told the captain that 'Defective' was an understatement and that he might want to keep his wiz-kid away from any electronic devices he wanted to continue functioning properly.
The problem that people have with computers is that they think they are smart. When, in fact, they are dumber than a rock. When coupled with an operator in the same vein, you've got problems.
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Woodenfish
Member
I worked for decades as an automotive dealership technician on European, American and a few Japanese vehicles. Whenever I did brakes or had a customer with a new vehicle who complained of brake noise, I inspected the brakes and performed the following. Remove calipers and pads; clean off all pad mounting points of rust or debris; remove any caliper slides, pins, their bushings, and lubricate with silicone brake grease. Nothing will work as well as silicone brake grease at reducing brake noise. Apply a thin wipe onto the brake pad contact points with the caliper or mount, and also onto the backside of the brake pad backing plate. Anything greased with this lubricant lightly will not create service issues. A thin coat is better than a heavy coat. Once all together again, this should take care of most noise as noise is created by a vibration.
I don’t recommend anyone use anti-seize on any brake components or basically anything other than perhaps spark plug threads. I also would never put a chamfer on the brake pad material thinking you know better than the engineering team who designed the brake pad.
The slight brake pad drag you might hear is due to the design of the brake caliper piston square cut seals. These seals are designed to flex and distort with brake pad application, and they will reform upon brake pedal release, which will allow fluid pressure to release back into the master cylinder reservoir through a compensation port. This little movement by the caliper seal is what retracts the brake pad on disc brakes. There will never be an air gap between pad and rotor upon release, so a slight noise might still be present. This could be more perceptible at times, especially when riding any motorcycle, but for the most part, it should be silent. Enjoy your ride.
I don’t recommend anyone use anti-seize on any brake components or basically anything other than perhaps spark plug threads. I also would never put a chamfer on the brake pad material thinking you know better than the engineering team who designed the brake pad.
The slight brake pad drag you might hear is due to the design of the brake caliper piston square cut seals. These seals are designed to flex and distort with brake pad application, and they will reform upon brake pedal release, which will allow fluid pressure to release back into the master cylinder reservoir through a compensation port. This little movement by the caliper seal is what retracts the brake pad on disc brakes. There will never be an air gap between pad and rotor upon release, so a slight noise might still be present. This could be more perceptible at times, especially when riding any motorcycle, but for the most part, it should be silent. Enjoy your ride.
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This is good and funny stuff, but back to the main topic, sort of... I removed the first side's caliper, and I am fairly certain I was the first person to do so. I cleaned it up a bit, but came to the conclusion there wasn't much more to do with it other than put it back on (I confirmed both pistons moved when retracting the pads before taking them out.) So I left the other caliper on.
Do you experts and techs remove the front calipers when you do a brake job? If so, what all do you do when they are off?
Do you experts and techs remove the front calipers when you do a brake job? If so, what all do you do when they are off?
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Same topic, different question: I just came across a post that says the front caliper screws torque spec is 50lbs. I had to apply a LOT more pressure than that to remove them, so I re-tightened them when I put it back on about as much as I could with a 10-inch socket without fear of moving the bike off the jack stand. This was considerably more than 50 lbs.
Question: Is there harm in overtightening them? Should I tear it back down, reapply loctite, then re-tighten them to spec?
Related question: do I generally need to reapply loctite (or permatex orange, in my case), or will the existing stuff still on the bolt suffice?
Question: Is there harm in overtightening them? Should I tear it back down, reapply loctite, then re-tighten them to spec?
Related question: do I generally need to reapply loctite (or permatex orange, in my case), or will the existing stuff still on the bolt suffice?
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Woodenfish
Member
It’s common for fasteners to require more torque to remove than to secure. I’m sure even if you tightened it up extremely tight that you are still somewhere around the proper torque, as the bolt isn’t going to stretch. Any of the factory installed locative remaining on the thread should be more than adequate.
The caliper generally needs to be removed to service the pads. Once the caliper is removed, it can be strapped to a fixed point. The low weight of the caliper on the Spyder should allow it to hang unsecured. Not the best practice, but if you’re careful, it should be okay.
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Bfromla
Well-known member
:hun:
opcorn: How does one clean everything PROPERLY without removing the caliper? :hun: Even with an air hose :hun: :hun: :dontknow: No, do not let the caliper dangle, there is enough hose to position it elsewhere temporarily. :thumbup:
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Mikey
Well-known member
One point everyone's missed on how much pressure you had to apply, was that there was loctite on the threads most likely, they put it on everything!! So, keep that in mind when you read the torque spec's and it doesn't seem right.
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:hun:
No, do not let the caliper dangle, there is enough hose to position it elsewhere temporarily. :thumbup:
What does cleaning the caliper properly entail? Other than spraying wiping the caliper surface, which really wasn’t bad?
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