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P0351 error and Check Engine Light on - any help/advice?

Will report back... on hold as I'm in Texas for awhile for my father's memorial and helping mother. Will circle back in a few weeks. Thanks for the information everyone... this is always a great site to visit and learn from. :) Great Spyder community!
 
Home from Texas heat... if it's the ECM, can I replace without BUDS? I see a number of them for my year are offered on Ebay... or other sources? I'm sure it will be expensive if dragged to a dealer. Thanks. Glad to be home after many miles in the cage.
 
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WisconsinDavid said:
Home from Texas heat... if it's the ECM, can I replace without BUDS? I see a number of them for my year are offered on Ebay... or other sources? I'm sure it will be expensive if dragged to a dealer. Thanks. Glad to be home after many miles in the cage.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure that starting with the most expensive fix is the way to go. The OEM spark plug wires are notorious for giving you misfire issues. If you've got 20k or more on your Spyder, even if the ignition wires aren't the cause of your current issues, you're going to need them sooner or later anyway. Put new Iridium IX plugs in while you're there. Take the opportunity to check for oil in the airbox, clean your possibly sticking, gummy throttle bodies (from the oil in the airbox) and replace the 2 small vacuum hoses on the throttle body as well. You might be happily surprised at the results.

If not, you can always move on to the more expensive options.
 
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BajaRon said:
I'm not sure that starting with the most expensive fix is the way to go. The OEM spark plug wires are notorious for giving you misfire issues. If you've got 20k or more on your Spyder, even if the ignition wires aren't the cause of your current issues, you're going to need them sooner or later anyway. Put new Iridium IX plugs in while you're there. Take the opportunity to check for oil in the airbox, clean your possibly sticking, gummy throttle bodies (from the oil in the airbox) and replace the 2 small vacuum hoses on the throttle body as well. You might be happily surprised at the results.

If not, you can always move on to the more expensive options.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll start there first... time to start taking the shell off the arachnid!
 
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WisconsinDavid said:
Thanks, I'll start there first... time to start taking the shell off the arachnid!
Click to expand...

I hope the advice is helpful and ultimately resolves your problem. But in any case, it will be interesting to discover the culprit. You might want to consider a canister-ectomy and crankcase vent mod in the process.
 
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Got the spyder opened up... got the air box cover off... now how the heck do I get to the front plug? Pulled the wire from the coil and it definitely is the front cylinder not firing. Ughh... an engineer sure did not think of the poor slobs that have to work on these things! :( Thanks for any help on getting where I need to get... under the box? Thanks
 
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Is there any secret to getting the thing out of there? I have it loose but cannot slide it out. Giving up for the night before my language turns foul.
 
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Won the battle - new plugs/wires! Still got a check engine light tho.
Replacing the coil next and then the ECM.

Anyone know if an ECM swap needs BUDS to reprogram it in?

Thanks....

From a Guy with greasy hands and a few less bottles of beer. :)

Thanks for the help!
 
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How many beers did you have, are you sure the plug wires are on tight?:2thumbs: Did you have as hard a time getting them in as you did getting them out?
 
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Well... we're down to the ECM as the next fun thing to try before dragging it beyond me. New coil and wires and plugs - no love. Still firing on one cylinder only. How do I remove the ECM from under the dash? Anyone remember on the RS how to release things there? Sigh. Thanks for all the help... this board is the best.
 
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The dash cluster is held by 2 clips on the top edge. There are 2 holes in the upper cover, seen from above, which give access to the 2 clips which can be depressed with a small screwdriver to release the cluster.
 
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Thanks Freddy... will travel that path next. Also, does anyone know if the ECM needs to be 2010 RS specific or is the same part used across years? Starting to search for one on Ebay as that's about the only place I've seen them this many years out from production of a 2010 RS Spyder. I'll let you know if I have success as the days go forward, or if I have to trailer it to a Dealer for further repairs. Thanks again for all the kind help here. Also, again does anyone know if an ECM change needs BUDS to make it valid, or is it just plugging the new one in and you're good to go?
 
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I have gotten a used working ECM from a vendor on eBay... from same year and model of Spyder RS (2010 SM5). More exploring leads me to believe that the key will be rendered non-working using a different ECM. Is there a way for someone with BUDS to clone my old ECM's settings? I have doubts that a dealership will help me. Can the ECM be tested apart from the bike? So many questions for the Spyder's brain from a less powerful brain, namely me. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
 
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WisconsinDavid said:
I have gotten a used working ECM from a vendor on eBay... from same year and model of Spyder RS (2010 SM5). More exploring leads me to believe that the key will be rendered non-working using a different ECM. Is there a way for someone with BUDS to clone my old ECM's settings? I have doubts that a dealership will help me. Can the ECM be tested apart from the bike? So many questions for the Spyder's brain from a less powerful brain, namely me. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

No, you have the first version of DESS. Replacing an ECM doesn't affect your ignition key programming. (the change to the newer version was made in 2014) There may be other initialization steps, however, that require BUDS when an ECM is replaced, such as for the Throttle Position Sensor. (But, it could very well work without doing that, too) IIRC, they got rid of the throttle cables and went to throttle-by-wire in 2010. You don't "clone" your new ECM from your old one, per se. You could benefit from a shop manual. 25 bucks. There will be an entire section on replacing an ECM and what needs to be done. I don't have one here for a 2010 RS, just an RT, so I'm not going to do any guessing. This is probably going to all work out for you just fine, just follow the procedures.

https://canammanuals.com/product/20...air-and-maintenance-manual-master-collection/
 
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Swapped out the ecm today and no love... just limp home mode and won't start. Replaced orig ecm after cleaning and same error code. Will put back together and drag it in to the dealer for them to troubleshoot and repair. Then... will sell it. I am moving up to a gently used 2014 RTS that I purchased today... this retiring guy is going to have a proper retired guy machine. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
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