What do I do to read Ryker fault codes to see what's happening?

[Raven]

Had the battery disconnected.
When hooked it back up and started the bike the ABS and engine warning lights came on.
Thought I saw the Limp home light flash.
Just wanted to try a get some fault codes to get some idea of whats happening.
Tried the search function and owners manual and came up with nothing.

 

[Elwood58]

How to read the fault code using the multifunction Gauge
Note: A fault code must have the "Active" state to be displayed in the multifunction gauge. Other fault code states must be read using the BRP diagnostic software (BUDS2).
If a fault is detected, an indicator light and a fault message may come on in the gauge.
Proceed as follows to view the fault codes:
1. Turn vehicle ON by pressing start button without activating brake pedal.
2. Push lower multifunction gauge button until Settings menu appears.
3. Hold lower button to enter the Settings menu.
4. Press the lower button until Codes menu appears. This menu will only appear if active faults are present on the vehicle.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Had the battery disconnected.
When hooked it back up and started the bike the ABS and engine warning lights came on.
Thought I saw the Limp home light flash.
Just wanted to try a get some fault codes to get some idea of whats happening.
Tried the search function and owners manual and came up with nothing.

There's a very good chance that those codes & flashing lights were just transients, probably due to low battery voltage. nojoke

Carefully ride your Ryker for a bit to see if any of them remain, and if you get more than one showing after a 10+ mile ride, then the very first thing to do is to Load Test your battery - if it shows anything below 12 volts at any stage during said testing, then it's not up to supplying sufficient power (especially on start-up, where 10.5v might be OK for less computer/electronically sensitive vehicles, but it's blatantly insufficient for our power hungry Spyders and Rykers :cus: as a poor battery charge/insufficient power will flash all sorts of random transient codes! ) so get a new full spec battery (NOT one of the latest BRP sub-par offerings! ) and properly charge it (for at least 8 hours) BEFORE installing it! DO NOT RELY on the Retailer to properly charge any new battery - even the best of them will rarely do this properly, maybe for a variety of reasons including the cost, time etc; but ultimately it's just not in their best interests to do so - and if they don't do this, even if they've told you they did... then YOU will very likely be paying for a new battery again, probably sooner rather than later, but usually juuuust outside the battery's warranty period!! :gaah: :lecturef_smilie:

 

[Raven]

Thanks, will see what I can find.
Battery was showing 12.8 volts after I started it.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thanks, will see what I can find.
Battery was showing 12.8 volts after I started it.

I hope that was at idle revs, cos that's not necessarily great voltage - if the engine is running, the charge system should've kicked in and the battery should be charging at something closer to 14 volts!! However, I'm not sure of the Ryker's charge profile - maybe it doesn't pick up the voltage until the revs get higher?? Anyone know??

Still, checking the voltage AFTER you've started the engine will really only help diagnose any charge system issues - it's not really 'load testing' the battery at all!! To do that, you really need to watch what the voltage does WHILE you're cranking the starter BEFORE the engine fires for the first start of the day - that's when the battery is under the greatest load! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[Raven]

The 12.8 was with the engine off.
Went to the settings and nothing showed.
I have been installing a under Max Mount taillight and found I had knocked a connection loose.
Plugged it back in, started the bike and no faults showed up.
Life is good.

 

[Raven]

Forgot to say "THANKS" for the help.
Now I know how to pull fault codes in case I do need to.

 

[DickB]

However, I'm not sure of the Ryker's charge profile - maybe it doesn't pick up the voltage until the revs get higher?? Anyone kniw??

The magneto is quite robust even at low RPMs. I get 14.6V at idle with accessories on.