HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
How hard is it to change this rod on a 2008 SM5?
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998cc How hard is it to change the Shift Shaft Rod?
- Thread starter HonorGuardVeteranK9
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pegasus1300
Well-known member
opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:
HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
Downshifted and ended up only having 1st gear. Seemed it was getting harder and harder to find neutral. I drove down to the parts store for Jeep parts just fine, left, got out to the light and down shifted, then boom, only 1st gear! The shift pedal is floppy and loose?! I guess that's the best way I can describe it.
Oil is new and at level, clutch is good, fresh fluid, and no air.
Oil is new and at level, clutch is good, fresh fluid, and no air.
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Bfromla
Well-known member
Quite likely it's the shift arm & it’s soft splines
:gaah:
Changing this is ez enough, can attempt yourself, just tighten the through bolt (has been reported removing; drill out threads; & installation of longer bolt & external nut is better) - mind, there is an indicator dot on the shaft that goes between the slot and the arm that line up.
A 13mm open end wrench can help with manual shifting (SE5 engine off)
optional longer bolt
does allow tighter clamp - Still needs splines tho.
I'm on arm #3 currently.opcorn: opcorn:
The shift shaft rod would require major engine/tranny disassembly & is not recommended.
:gaah: Changing this is ez enough, can attempt yourself, just tighten the through bolt (has been reported removing; drill out threads; & installation of longer bolt & external nut is better) - mind, there is an indicator dot on the shaft that goes between the slot and the arm that line up.
A 13mm open end wrench can help with manual shifting (SE5 engine off)
optional longer bolt
does allow tighter clamp - Still needs splines tho.
I'm on arm #3 currently.
opcorn: opcorn: The shift shaft rod would require major engine/tranny disassembly & is not recommended.
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HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
It's on good and tight. You can see the rod on the housing turning with it
HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
Quite likely it's the shift arm & it’s soft splines
View attachment 209013:gaah:
Changing this is ez enough, can attempt yourself, just tighten the through bolt (has been reported removing; drill out threads; & installation of longer bolt & external nut is better) - mind, there is an indicator dot on the shaft that goes between the slot and the arm that line up.
View attachment 209014
A 13mm open end wrench can help with manual shifting (SE5 engine off)
View attachment 209015
optional longer bolt
View attachment 209016
does allow tighter clamp - Still needs splines tho.
I'm on arm #3 currently.
The shift shaft rod would require major engine/tranny disassembly & is not recommended.
I'm an. SM5
pegasus1300
Well-known member
It can be done without removing the engine or splitting the cases. Remove the clutch cover, remove the clutch, slide the old shift shaft out, and slide the new shaft back in, make sure the shift is indexing correctly. Take lots of pictures before disassembly, especially how the indexer interfaces with the shift drum, then test to be sure you have all the gears. Reassemble in reverse order. GET THE SHOP MANUAL. In the 2011/2012 RT Manual, it is section 2, Engine Subsections 10 and 11, pages 212-215 and 260-262. I can't post the pictures, maybe someone else with the book can do it? But if you don't have one already, you really should get a manual. Good luck.
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HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
Thanks. I downloaded the "Shop" manual so I guess I have the correct literature.
I'm hoping that's all it is just the shift shaft. The clutch only has 2k miles on it. Guess I will work on pulling the plastic and the exhaust off so I can easily get to the clutch housing bolt behind it.
I swear once this is done I'm gonna trade this old classic for or towards a newer spyder. Not many accessories left out there or being made for it. But thanks to a spyder I learned I can ride again after a really bad lay down.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Please let us know how it goes. Good luck. If you can get up from a bad accident and ride again, you can do this and make it work.:clap::yes:
HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
Will do and thank you
HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
Did you have to remove the clutch basket? I finally got my cover off. The shift rod is definitely bent (parallelogram not a square hole). Just having a Dickens of a time getting the shaft out due to the bending.
Also anyone know a good source for the clutch cover gasket? Found out there were cracks and breaks in my existing one.
But I greatly appreciate all the words help and guidance I have been given.
HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
With the engine off but key on, should I be able to shift up gears all the way to 5th? I can shift down to R and up to 4 but it won't let me shift to 5?!
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Not even if you rock the bike back & forth against the gears a bit?? :dontknow:
Yours is an SM5, isn't it?? I hafta admit that it's been a minute or two since I've delved into one of them, but they're basically the same as the SE5's (minus the centrifugal clutch
) and I can't recall anything that'd stop it shifting into 5th... There again, my 'forgettory' is becoming much more active these days!! 
Must be something to do with the cold weather we're having here in Oz!? :sour:
HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
Not even if you rock the bike back & forth against the gears a bit?? :dontknow:
Yours is an SM5, isn't it?? I hafta admit that it's been a minute or two since I've delved into one of them, but they're basically the same as the SE5's (minus the centrifugal clutch
Rocking it did it. Thanks.
HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
It is done and my bike is up and running. Wierd thing is the replacement shift shaft had a larger spring on the end and seemed shorter. I had to bend my shift pedal to clear the plastics.
HonorGuardVeteranK9
New member
I want to thank everyone who gave me advice and a sounding board. My bike is up and running and about 90%.
Thank you all so very much.
As an FYI to anyone who ends up doing this procedure.
There are apparently 2 different shift shaft rods. The stock original OEM. You will know this one by the less robust spring and cylindrical spacer on the end. This shaft is longer than the second version by a significant amount.
The second version has a very robust spring and top hat shaped spacer. This part is shorter in length and will require you to either cut the plastic fairing or bend your shift pedal for clearance.
Do not heat your shift pedal in a smoker and bend it using the concrete pads of your driveway..... lol
But again thank you all for the advice and guidance
Thank you all so very much.
As an FYI to anyone who ends up doing this procedure.
There are apparently 2 different shift shaft rods. The stock original OEM. You will know this one by the less robust spring and cylindrical spacer on the end. This shaft is longer than the second version by a significant amount.
The second version has a very robust spring and top hat shaped spacer. This part is shorter in length and will require you to either cut the plastic fairing or bend your shift pedal for clearance.
Do not heat your shift pedal in a smoker and bend it using the concrete pads of your driveway..... lol
But again thank you all for the advice and guidance
