1330cc 2015 RT SM6 Burning Oil - what are the possible causes?

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Try looking at this. They call this the blow-by connector. There's a vent tube attached to it. You can remove the vent tube and check things out. There's that o-ring shown, and also what they call a v-ring that requires valve cover removal to inspect. Not a simple job. The question though, would be what is causing the excessive blow-by in the first place, right. Sorry I didn't see that the first time. The other internal vents are venting the oil tank. They don't appear to have suction on them. If you're still interested in trying some magic juice, you might try Yamalube Ring Free. Works on boats and BMW bikes. Maybe make the first dose a double, and do an Italian Tune-up.

PS. Did the previous owner use ECO Mode a lot?

 

[PMK]

Yes, but it probably was the 4th or 5th oil change the previous owner performed on it. I don't think it was his fault. I change the oil over the weekend, all the Orings were present and it the correct location. The oil filter was all the way in and orings on the stick were correct.

Question, if the internal crankcase case vent tube was clogged, could oil be forced into the combustion chamber if the pressure is too high in the crankcase? I notice signs of pressure around gaskets on the right side engine cover as there is a light film of oil that has attracted dust where the cover attaches to the side of the engine.

More dots!
AJ

I certainly hope you find any easy inexpensive resolution.

My concern with the issue, is it seems focused on one cylinder. If the engine were pumping oil into the case vent it should affect all cylinders.
I mentioned accomplishing a cylinder leakdown earlier. One of the better methods to identify quickly areas of concern.

All the best with it. Hope the dealer you mentioned gets you sorted quickly at reasonable cost.

 

[BertRemington]

wcntech -- my question about spark plug insulator discoloration was for the portion outside the combustion chamber. The part inside is of course discolored, which you had stated before. My concern was leakage from the CC due to a break in the seal which could be caused by the CC-side insulator breaking down and shedding particles into the CC leading to cylinder wall damage.

He had just changed the oil at the start of the ride. I would say this was a rapid onset of the oil burning because it had not used a drop prior he stated.

The 1330cc dry sump engine has an oil filter followed by a strainer feeding the pressure pump which feeds, among other items, the oil spray nozzles for piston cooling and lubrication. I suppose it's possible the oil change dislodged or introduced some particle but I think it's unlikely to reach the cylinder wall to cause damage or to clog a spray nozzle. Except this possibility: if such a particle(s) was introduced after the oil filter then only a strainer protects the pressure pump and downstream components. And the strainer is coarser filtration than the filter.

PMK's leakdown test is mandatory and I recommend an oil pressure test at the same time. The test port is on the front right of the engine and is easy to access.

Best wishes.

 

[PMK]

wcntech -- my question about spark plug insulator discoloration was for the portion outside the combustion chamber. The part inside is of course discolored, which you had stated before. My concern was leakage from the CC due to a break in the seal which could be caused by the CC-side insulator breaking down and shedding particles into the CC leading to cylinder wall damage.

The 1330cc dry sump engine has an oil filter followed by a strainer feeding the pressure pump which feeds, among other items, the oil spray nozzles for piston cooling and lubrication. I suppose it's possible the oil change dislodged or introduced some particle but I think it's unlikely to reach the cylinder wall to cause damage or to clog a spray nozzle. Except this possibility: if such a particle(s) was introduced after the oil filter then only a strainer protects the pressure pump and downstream components. And the strainer is coarser filtration than the filter.

PMK's leakdown test is mandatory and I recommend an oil pressure test at the same time. The test port is on the front right of the engine and is easy to access.

Best wishes.

If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting a failed spark plug insulator damaging the #2 cylinder. Seems a possibility, but thought the owner indicated the spark plug was intact, but dark colored.

While damage could happen if the spark plug failed into the combustion chamber, if so, often the debris gets blown out the exhaust.

At this point, until more factual evidence is found and presented, the saga reminds me of “The Wizard of OZ”. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. Myself included, we are tossing out ideas and nothing more. I certainly do not know the exact cause, but do know from experience, it saves a ton of guesswork and shop rate hours to learn exactly how bad the compression is, and know exactly where the issue is.

Certainly hope his dealer gets it sorted, but expect them to just toss parts at it. Proverbial throw turds at the wall and see what sticks. The talent of skilled troubleshooting is now a lost art. Sad, but generally true.

OP, all the best with it, but consider eating light lunches so you can afford the repair bill if they tear the engine apart after removing it. Will be curiously interesting to learn what they find.

 

[Mikey]

Try looking at this. They call this the blow-by connector. There's a vent tube attached to it. You can remove the vent tube and check things out. There's that o-ring shown, and also what they call a v-ring that requires valve cover removal to inspect. Not a simple job. The question though, would be what is causing the excessive blow-by in the first place, right. Sorry I didn't see that the first time. The other internal vents are venting the oil tank. They don't appear to have suction on them. If you're still interested in trying some magic juice, you might try Yamalube Ring Free. Works on boats and BMW bikes. Maybe make the first dose a double, and do an Italian Tune-up.

PS. Did the previous owner use ECO Mode a lot?

x2:agree:

 

[BertRemington]

At this point, until more factual evidence is found and presented, the saga reminds me of “The Wizard of OZ”.

So true but I was presenting possible failure modes that might help during discussions with the dealer. I too am baffled why/how the middle cylinder failure occurred so rapidly. And is the immediately previous oil change a coincidence or a cause?

Unfortunately the oil has already been changed since purchase which is why I recommended an oil pressure check rather than an oil sample analysis.

At this point this is probably the best course of action

This weekend, I'm going to put it back together enough to get it inspected and registered, change the oil, and do some longer rides to verify it is using oil like he says it is.

 

[wcntech]

Heard back from the dealer this morning.

They diagnosed the problem as a failed clutch diaphragm. They stated the diaphragm was allowing oil into the vacuum lines and so it was getting into the combustion chamber. The parts and labor will be around $750. I can live with that. Better than a rebuild or even a used engine!

Thanks everyone who contributed to this thread. I will let you know in a couple weeks once I get it back and put some miles on it. I think before I put the plastics back on, I will change the plugs. Would you go back with the stock plug or is there a newer plug that is better?

Thanks!
AJ

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Heard back from the dealer this morning.

They diagnosed the problem as a failed clutch diaphragm. They stated the diaphragm was allowing oil into the vacuum lines and so it was getting into the combustion chamber. The parts and labor will be around $750. I can live with that. Better than a rebuild or even a used engine!

Thanks everyone who contributed to this thread. I will let you know in a couple weeks once I get it back and put some miles on it. I think before I put the plastics back on, I will change the plugs. Would you go back with the stock plug or is there a newer plug that is better?

Thanks!
AJ

Well, your middle plug can be cleaned .... 18,300 mi. on plugs for the 1330 isn't much .... I have the same engine with over 80,000 mi. on the plugs and there is no indication that they need to be changed (but I will soon!) .... However, peace of mind may be worth it ..... Good Luck, hopefully the Tech has is it right? ... Mike hyea:

 

[BertRemington]

wcntech -- you want Baja Ron's spark plug kit. Not only the correct spark plugs for the 1330cc engine but also includes the thermal paste for the threads and the silicone lubricant for the seals.

 

[wcntech]

Well, it's all back together and took it on about a 70-mile run. It's running great! I ordered the spark plug kit for BajaRon and put them in while it was all apart. I will post a picture of the clutch diaphragm later. Here she is with the 2014 Limited. Meet Smoke and Shade. Together known as Double Trouble.