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K&N Air Filter Orientation issue - any better solution than just jamming it in?

From what I understand the K&N Filters pass too much dirt. I used one in our Dodge Magnum R/T and after a month I took it out to inspect and found the downside MAF sensor was coated in oil. This filter was pre oiled from the factory!
I yanked it out and threw it in the trash can and put the OEM filter back in. After that I did some research and found that most of the car and truck enthusiasts say that they pass too much debris and coat downstream sensors. I've never used one since and I definitely wouldn't put one on my Spyder. There's nothing wrong with the stock air filter that comes from the factory on any vehicle. YMMV.
 
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Well, if it's just oil from the filter I see no problem at all, it takes vapor from your crank case every time you ride it down the road. Now if it was passing dirt that would be another thing, wouldn't be? I have used them in a lot of different applications and think they're the bee's knees. Matter of fact, when I tried to get a filter for my chevy pick up there was some kind of shortage going on and I quickly found a K&N filter and never looked back, had one in the RT also.
 
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How can the K&N filter flow more air without also letting more dirt in? Oil I guess is the answer. That Oil mist adheres to your downstream sensors, throttle bodies, and eventually to the cylinders. I'm not posting something that I just made up. Go online and look it up.
 
How can the K&N filter flow more air without also letting more dirt in? Oil I guess is the answer. That Oil mist adheres to your downstream sensors, throttle bodies, and eventually to the cylinders. I'm not posting something that I just made up. Go online and look it up.

This may be true, but only if you over oil the filter. The MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow) is located just downstream from the air filter in the center of the airflow. It is an extremely sensitive component. If it gets coated with anything it will not work properly. K&N has had extensive and intensive research done in this regard. You can read the test data report here.
https://www.knfilters.com/maf/massairfindings.htm

With a properly oiled filter (which is not difficult to achieve), there is absolutely no issue with oil going downstream. I ran a K&N air filter in my 998 for over 30,000 miles before switching the the JT A1-F system. I cleaned and re-oiled it once at about 20k. Zero issues. I've done this with other vehicles as well with the same results.

Service the K&N filter properly and it will work just fine.
 
I wonder if BRP would warranty any problems associated with an oil film problem from a K&N air filter. As far as any documentation from K&N of course they will say their product is best. I don't buy it.
I respect your input Ron, but as a mechanic myself for 40 years, and a motorsport guy I feel as do many others in the field usually the stock parts work just fine, and always fit.
I'm not just someone who decided to share bogus info. Do as you please as most folks on here will. That's fine and dandy. Your machine your decision. I'm just starting what I and others have found.
By trade I'm a retired advance hydraulic design engineer, Diesel tech, gas turbine tech, Cummins diesel tech, automotive tech and everything in between. I've seen and done plenty. One thing I have learned in all those years in most cases where the design engineers spec out a part, it's usually a compromise of cost, performance, and longevity of the component. Not necessarily ease of service, as we all know. Again, it's a personal choice how people decide to service their equipment. Just be informed.
 
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I wonder if BRP would warranty any problems associated with an oil film problem from a K&N air filter. As far as any documentation from K&N of course they will say their product is best. I don't buy it.
I respect your input Ron, but as a mechanic myself for 40 years, and a motorsport guy I feel as do many others in the field usually the stock parts work just fine, and always fit.
I'm not just someone who decided to share bogus info. Do as you please as most folks on here will. That's fine and dandy. Your machine your decision. I'm just starting what I and others have found.
By trade I'm a retired advance hydraulic design engineer, Diesel tech, gas turbine tech, Cummins diesel tech, automotive tech and everything in between. I've seen and done plenty. One thing I have learned in all those years in most cases where the design engineers spec out a part, it's usually a compromise of cost, performance, and longevity of the component. Not necessarily ease of service, as we all know. Again, it's a personal choice how people decide to service their equipment. Just be informed.

Did you read the article that I linked to?
 
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I did read it, but not convinced enough to ever use one. I know what I've seen. Did it screw my car up to the point it wouldn't run correctly? No. But it has the potential in my and other users opinion to cause problems. Why even risk it? What does BRP Say?
 
I did read it, but not convinced enough to ever use one. I know what I've seen. Did it screw my car up to the point it wouldn't run correctly? No. But it has the potential in my and other users opinion to cause problems. Why even risk it? What does BRP Say?

Not trying to convince anyone to use one. Just was interested to know what you thought about the article.

One of the things I do like about the K&N type of filter is for the CVT side of the Ryker. A K&N will typically flow more air dirty than a paper filter will flow new. The CVT flows a lot of air all the time and the paper filter can get clogged pretty quickly. We've seen this on several Rykers. A few have lost belts prematurely because of overheating. Belt life is very dependent on this large amount of air flow. Some are saying that the oil from the filter will get on the belt and make it slip, which is not true. There are hundreds of customers running this type of filter on their Ryker with zero issues. I did a good deal of research on this subject before recommending the K&N for this application.

I'm sharing my experience, you're sharing yours. Beyond that, it's up to each individual to decide what they want to do.
 
Not trying to convince anyone to use one. Just was interested to know what you thought about the article.

One of the things I do like about the K&N type of filter is for the CVT side of the Ryker. A K&N will typically flow more air dirty than a paper filter will flow new. The CVT flows a lot of air all the time and the paper filter can get clogged pretty quickly. We've seen this on several Rykers. A few have lost belts prematurely because of overheating. Belt life is very dependent on this large amount of air flow. Some are saying that the oil from the filter will get on the belt and make it slip, which is not true. There are hundreds of customers running this type of filter on their Ryker with zero issues. I did a good deal of research on this subject before recommending the K&N for this application.

I'm sharing my experience, you're sharing yours. Beyond that, it's up to each individual to decide what they want to do.

Agreed
 
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