2021 F3-S - is new Thread Lock necessary when refitting body panels?

[Hogmonster]

Hi all, my fellow Spyder riders.

I have been removing body panels from my F3 to clean it over winter, I have noticed that BRP seem to thread lock everything, is it necessary to apply new thread lock to the screws attaching the body panels when refitting them and also after removing some a few times?

I obviously would if it was a safety item, that said I obviously don't want the panel screws backing out.

Many Thanks.
Andrew (UK)

 

[Isopedella]

Gidday Andrew. 1st up - I'm a Belt n Braces bloke, favorite tools are digital calipers, inch pound torque wrench and 6 point sockets. :2thumbs:

If the threads have lots of dried up left over locker in them, I would gently run a tap through and also clean up the screw threads with a wire brush. Then refit with a drop of the thread-locker.

I use a lot of 243 Blue in the overall scheme of things as I put it on almost every thread.
Then I'm sure I don't have to over-tighten it and it will stay in place.

Best advice I can share, so there you have it.

Iso

 

[JayBros]

:agree:, Except for the belt and braces; live dangerously there!

 

[Hogmonster]

Gidday Andrew. 1st up - I'm a Belt n Braces bloke, favorite tools are digital calipers, inch pound torque wrench and 6 point sockets. :2thumbs:

If the threads have lots of dried up left over locker in them, I would gently run a tap through and also clean up the screw threads with a wire brush. Then refit with a drop of the thread-locker.

I use a lot of 243 Blue in the overall scheme of things as I put it on almost every thread.
Then I'm sure I don't have to over-tighten it and it will stay in place.

Best advice I can share, so there you have it.

Iso

Hi Iso,
Thanks for your reply, I too share a lot of your traits; 6 sided sockets for sure, Vernier calipers (not digital), & a big �� up on the torque wrench; but I had to check on the Loctite - I use 242, I believe 243 is the "new improved" version?

Thanks again, Andrew...

 

[Isopedella]

Haha. For a moment there I thought I was getting mixed up with my 2-4s mixed with my preference of deer rifle calibers. I mostly use the .243win.

Found this
What's the difference between Loctite 242 and 243?
Loctite 243 thread locker is an upgraded version of Loctite 242, and is more of a general-purpose member of our “blue crew.” It is designed to have improved oil tolerance with surface-insensitive properties (plated fasteners no longer require primer), combined with the same overall benefits of the original Blue ...10 Aug 2016.

I use the digital caliper version as I can read it more clearly. 1/2 blind in 1 eye, no surprise there I guess and the other is just getting old and tired.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I've had my 14 RT for 9 years .... have removed Panels too many times to remember , I have yet to add anymore LokTite to any threads ..... good luck .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[FrogmanDave]

I've had my 14 RT for 9 years .... have removed Panels too many times to remember , I have yet to add anymore LokTite to any threads ..... good luck .....Mike :thumbup:

Totally agree with Mike.

 

[Gwolf]

Agree with most of the above opinions. You sure don't need to put the yellow Locktite back on most places where it was used. Unless the manual calls for a specific Locktite any place on the Spyder, I just use the blue Locktite Sticks to get a little on the threads before reassembly. The blue will not require heat to get the parts back off next time.

There are some toothbrush looking wire brushes with metal bristles always hanging on the side of my toolboxes. They will clean the old Loctite out of most places. The small, straight wire brushes will get it out of internal threads.