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Any reputable places to download OEM Service Manual?

broderp

New member
Hello all, this is my first post. Glad to be here. I searched before posting for "Service Manual" but found no real answer so I am asking.

My question: Aside from a Can-Am dealer, are there any reputable online places to download the OEM Service Manual? As I plan my approach to upgrade my Spyder I need a solid foundation to base those decisions on. I already have the dealer locating an OEM Service Manual (They had a hard time finding the part number to order for some reason) but would like to also purchase a digital file that I can put on my tablet for "casual reading". :) When at my bike, I want a paper book to reference.

If this question is taboo, please forgive me and point me in the right direction. With several on places claiming to offer complete "OEM Service manuals" I find it hard to believe they are all licensed or if what I get will be what they claim.




If you care to know a bit more about me:

I am a new 2023 Spyder (F3S) owner. I picked up my new ride from the dealer with 0.7 miles on the odometer one week ago today. It now only has 20 miles (the ride home) and is in the garage most likely done with riding for the season due to the cold weather and winter coming. I have plans to install several upgrades over the winter so that come spring I am ready for the riding season.

I have been riding motorcycles for several years. My current motorcycle is a Kawasaki Z900. I also own (bought for the wife for her birthday) a 2023 Ryker 600. I loved riding hers to work to "test it out" so much I needed my own. I'm a big guy (chunky would be a nice way to put it) so I opted for the F3S. I am also 50+ years old, so some days I just don't feel up to riding the Z900 on colder days. Its a totally different experience than my 2 wheel bike, but just as fun! It also gives me the opportunity to putt around with the wife on similar vehicles.

Current 2023 model year end sales, discounts, color choices (I love the Manta Green color with the matching seat stitching and two tone rims) along with a lack of changes that mattered to me on 2024 models made the $3200-$5000 more I would spend on a 2024 model a bad idea. The perfect bike discounted and right in front of me made my purchase a no brainer.

I am old school; meaning I believe that if you take a bolt out, it needs to have a proper torque spec when put back on. I also want to remove parts properly. There are YouTube video's and forums, but self help is my first choice. As I'll be adding electrical upgrades, a proper wiring diagram is needed. I know where the 3 Customer Accessory power points but I am overly OCD about detailed such as cable management, wire routing and making everything look STOCK. I make my own harnesses to proper length, route them along side OEM harness and design and 3D print custom brackets as well as have a son who is a machinist who can manufacture small parts that I powder coat.

Winter Mods and Upgrade (parts already purchased and enroute to me or in my hands):
  • Passenger Back Rest
  • Detachable Drivers Back rest
  • Windshield (Blue Ridge)
  • Dash Cam
  • Side Monitoring System
  • Heated Grips
  • Fog Lights
  • Accent Lights
  • Paint Protection Film
  • New brake Rod
  • Foam Grip covers

:cheers:
 
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Adding accent lights require a special connection so the bike’s system doesn’t know there are extra lights. A few extra LEDs won’t be a problem but more than that your best bet is TricLED lighting. LaMonsterGarage, SlingMods, Spyderpops are a few that sell all kinds of goodies.

A physical service manual can run $200+ and many use YouTube.

I got the brake rod from the dealer along with different handlebars.

I use a ceramic coating once/twice a year for protection.

You sure the bike doesn’t already have heated grips? (I have a Ltd so I don’t know what the S comes with)
 
I’m about 90% sure the F3-S doesn’t come with heated grips standard although I’m sure the dealer can install the factory version. That being said, a set of aftermarket heated grips might be better than OEM if you can adjust the temps. That’s my only complaint about the OEM heated grips on my F3 Limited…it’s just off or on. No low,medium, or high settings like my previous motorcycles have had (except for my R1200RT which had 6 or so levels).
 
:welcome: and :congrats: on your new Spyder. :yes:

Thanks!


A physical service manual can run $200+ and many use YouTube.
I got the brake rod from the dealer along with different handlebars.
I use a ceramic coating once/twice a year for protection.
You sure the bike doesn’t already have heated grips? (I have a Ltd so I don’t know what the S comes with)

I'm not rich by any means, but even at $200, the OEM paper shop manual is money well spent. It's way over-priced compared to what I have paid for my other motorcycles, but it's Can-Am - it's all over-priced! :D

I bought a brake rod from the dealer, but it didn't work. The Spyder came in position 3 with a position 3 rod. The brake pedal sits way too high and is awkward. I thought a position 2 rod would lower it to where I needed. Well, it did lower the pedal - lowered it to the point of making the brakes non-functional! :sour: So I need to source a custom or adjustable rod.

I will also be ceramic coating the paint. But will be using clear 3M film on a few places. like the tank cover where my jacket would rub and scuff the piano black color.

The F3-S does not come with heated grips. It's pre-wired for it and it's a plug and play option, it just makes you take all the panels off top and sides access the connection points. Just another reason why I need the Service Manual. ;) (See the image I uploaded below)


Adding accent lights require a special connection so the bike’s system doesn’t know there are extra lights. A few extra LEDs won’t be a problem

Can you elaborate a little on this? I only plan on adding glow lighting (cool factor and makes you more visible at night) and maybe an LED or two. I plan on using one or two of the 3 Spyder's Customer electrical connections. I assumed they just output a switched 12VDC and as long as I do not exceed the circuit (10A) I would be good. I do have some concern for changing some of the bulbs (brake, backup etc.) to LED because I am seeing that some reviewers are saying the can bus will think the bulb is burned out and hyper flash or worse. I also have a set of LED's for the headlights. Put a set in the wife's Ryker and they are MUCH better than the stock yellow bulbs.


Sent ya a PM...

Got it, Thanks!


I’m about 90% sure the F3-S doesn’t come with heated grips standard although I’m sure the dealer can install the factory version. That being said, a set of aftermarket heated grips might be better than OEM if you can adjust the temps. That’s my only complaint about the OEM heated grips on my F3 Limited…it’s just off or on. No low,medium, or high settings like my previous motorcycles have had (except for my R1200RT which had 6 or so levels).

I pondered going with after-market, but since I've never had heated grips (or heated gloves for that matter) and the OEM ones are plug and play and fairly inexpensive (got a set for about $250) I went that route. I don't plan on doing a ton of super cold riding, so anything is better than nothing, and thrre's no extra wires to tap, splice, or battery terminals to add wires to.

Thanks everyone for your input!
 

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I picked ( bought ) up an adjustable brake rod. Perfect. Got it right where I preferred it, and it still operates correctly.

That was after I made a 5 to replace the 4 it came with, it was new to me with 2 previous owners.

bar 2 1 20220524_084136.jpg bar 1 2 20220524_084110.jpg brake rod s-l1600.jpg
 
I picked ( bought ) up an adjustable brake rod. Perfect. Got it right where I preferred it, and it still operates correctly.

That was after I made a 5 to replace the 4 it came with, it was new to me with 2 previous owners.

View attachment 206052 View attachment 206053 View attachment 206054


That rod is $130. I had that in my shopping cart of things to buy but I opted to get the OEM "position 2" rod from the dealer for $30 (assuming it would work) in an effort to save $100. Looks like I may need to get it after all. Thanks for the endorsement, it's nice to know when something works from an actual person, not a guy in a video trying to sell it to you. :cheers:
 
Hey no worries.
I made a list of things I wanted to change to make it more ride able, comfortable and servicing.
Then sorted them in order of need.

In the end settled with a cheap digital voltmeter off the Ali Express, higher bar block ( im a 6'2" munchkin) , extra set of bar end mirrors, 6 point sump plugs and a F4 screen and biffed those oem tyres. I had a smart battery maintainer to fit already. No garage woes with a no start situation from a flattish battery you read so often about.

Then I did push the boat out I admit. Saved up a bit for about a year.... then...for my riding pleasure ..
Fitted a PedalBox to wake up that 1330 ( no more blur blur and SFA happening cept instant power) and a sway bar with links.
WOW NIGHT and DAY!

Zero Farkels that do nothing but please the eye. Good things take time.
 
broderp -- building jumper harnesses so you don't have to use wire taps is an excellent approach to ensure the integrity of the Spyder electronics. I can't speak to your generation of Spyders but mine uses AMP SuperSeal and Deutsch DT in many of the point of interest. For other connectors I recommend Ballenger https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109?osCsid=hbvamp9a7cc1kti2pihd5db7o1 as a source. They even have unique connectors such as the receptacle side of 3-pin pressure sensor connectors (eg, transmission oil pressure).

What dash cam and side monitoring system are you installing.

Post pictures!
 
https://brpmanuals.com/product-category/rykers-spyders/
This place sells an electronic version of the shop manual for $24.50. I bought one in August for my '23 RTL. I have used only the wiring diagram so far but found it to be accurate.

Thanks for letting me know. Is the quality of the PDF file good? Can you zoom in with clarity? Are the images clear and text sharp? As I wait for the dealer to get back to me on the cost and availability of a hard copy, I will likely look into this. Even the dealer knew of this website. LOL

broderp -- building jumper harnesses so you don't have to use wire taps is an excellent approach to ensure the integrity of the Spyder electronics. I can't speak to your generation of Spyders but mine uses AMP SuperSeal and Deutsch DT in many of the point of interest. For other connectors I recommend Ballenger https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109?osCsid=hbvamp9a7cc1kti2pihd5db7o1 as a source. They even have unique connectors such as the receptacle side of 3-pin pressure sensor connectors (eg, transmission oil pressure).

What dash cam and side monitoring system are you installing.

Post pictures!


Thanks for the link to those connectors! I have a lot of experience in making harnesses, but no longer have contacts to find specialty ones for personal projects for making "proper" harnesses for my Kawasaki and now my Can-Ams :D


For my Spyder, I'm going basic in regards to install complexity. I'm going to try a INNOVV K6 Dash Cam with a 2K front camera and a 1080p rear. This camera runs on USB power so I will need to design a power supply housing for a PCB voltage regulator and hard wire it to a relay distribution block from one of the 3 customer accessory locations.
https://www.innovv.com/product-page/innovv-k6-dash-cam-motorcycle-version

I am also going to try installing their version of a blind spot monitoring called "ThirdEYE".
https://www.innovv.com/product-page/thirdeye-mirror-version

I will try and get some images of the install and share.:cheers:
 
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The Innovv products are excellent design and quality. A member here (Latrappe) is looking at the K5 and considering the ThirdEYE. I purchased a ThirdEYE but it's complicated.

There is an ambiguity between concurrent LCA and RCW. I have suggested to Innovv that RCW be distinguished with flashing indicators and LCA with steady indicators. We had a failure to communicate. So I bought another BSD from blindspotdetector.com (sold on eBay at half the price of a ThirdEYE) which provides the desired flashing/steady indicators for the EOL MT-04 model but not the new MT-05 replacement. And like the Innovv folks they weren't interested in changing back to flashing RCW.

So I was going to install the ThirdEYE in my Transit Connect and the MT-04 in my Spyder (I can explain why if anyone is really interested). But the indicator cables need to be lengthened for the TC and there's no way I can peel apart those thin 4-conductor cables. So install the MT-04 on the TC (easier to modify cables) and procrastinate on the Spyder.

Why another BSD when the TC already has a BSD? The TC BSD is near-field ultrasonic while the ThirdEYE and MT-04 are 50 meter 77GHz radar. The two BSDs complement each other.
 
The Innovv products are excellent design and quality. A member here (Latrappe) is looking at the K5 and considering the ThirdEYE. I purchased a ThirdEYE but it's complicated.

There is an ambiguity between concurrent LCA and RCW. I have suggested to Innovv that RCW be distinguished with flashing indicators and LCA with steady indicators. We had a failure to communicate. So I bought another BSD from blindspotdetector.com (sold on eBay at half the price of a ThirdEYE) which provides the desired flashing/steady indicators for the EOL MT-04 model but not the new MT-05 replacement. And like the Innovv folks they weren't interested in changing back to flashing RCW.

So I was going to install the ThirdEYE in my Transit Connect and the MT-04 in my Spyder (I can explain why if anyone is really interested). But the indicator cables need to be lengthened for the TC and there's no way I can peel apart those thin 4-conductor cables. So install the MT-04 on the TC (easier to modify cables) and procrastinate on the Spyder.

Why another BSD when the TC already has a BSD? The TC BSD is near-field ultrasonic while the ThirdEYE and MT-04 are 50 meter 77GHz radar. The two BSDs complement each other.

I need to get up to speed on the acronyms. (RDW, LCA, BCD, TC etc.) :read: I'd love to understand your rationale and thoughts on the pros and cons of the two technologies.

I read a couple of reviews on the ThirdEye and since I was hemorrhaging money on upgrades and mods for the new Spyder, said "Eh, why not." Not quite sure where I'm going to mount it as it needs to be fairly high to work effectively but I'll get to that bridge when I have it in hand.
 
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Yeah story of my life. People say I'm too wordy if they aren't saying I use to many abbreviations.

RCW Rear Collision Warning LCA Lane Change Assist BSD Blind Spot Detector TC Transit Connect

Most cars are near-field BSDs use ultrasonic ranging and detection.

There are two far-field BSDs that use microwave ranging and detection: 24GHz out to about 50 feet and 77GHz out to about 150 feet. The ThirdEYE and MT-04 are 77GHz.

Discussion continued in the other thread.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-Spot-Mirror-or-a-Blind-Spot-Detector-or-Both
 
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FYI, I got the service manual from brpmanuals.com. Very pleased, with the content but I believe I have already found 2 errors in it. Lol.
 
FYI, I got the service manual from brpmanuals.com. Very pleased, with the content but I believe I have already found 2 errors in it. Lol.

Not too surprising. In the past we've seen inconsistencies between different years of manuals and within a specific year's manual. Documentation is not a really strong part of the BRP quality assurance program, IMO. If you get a paper copy you'll most likely see the same errors in it. It's my understanding that the online PDF copies are copies of the original printing PDFs. My personal speculation is the copy you bought is essentially a pirate copy but BRP does not officially publish an electronic copy so that's our only choice. I also speculate that whoever is producing and selling the BRP manuals is known to BRP but they are operating in an unreachable jurisdiction and there wouldn't be enough revenue from publishing the PDFs to make it worth BRP's while to do so. Unless things have changed you will not find any Intenet info about the seller such as who owns the website.
 
Not too surprising. In the past we've seen inconsistencies between different years of manuals and within a specific year's manual. Documentation is not a really strong part of the BRP quality assurance program, IMO. If you get a paper copy you'll most likely see the same errors in it. It's my understanding that the online PDF copies are copies of the original printing PDFs. My personal speculation is the copy you bought is essentially a pirate copy but BRP does not officially publish an electronic copy so that's our only choice. I also speculate that whoever is producing and selling the BRP manuals is known to BRP but they are operating in an unreachable jurisdiction and there wouldn't be enough revenue from publishing the PDFs to make it worth BRP's while to do so. Unless things have changed you will not find any Intenet info about the seller such as who owns the website.

I got my manual from the link below (not an endorsement), and it is a super clean copy of whatever source material they used if it is indeed a pirated copy. Pirated or not, until BRP and my dealer can get me a hard copy I will use this. I have no clue where they are from, I paid with Paypal and I got exactly what I was needing.

https://brpmanuals.com/product/2023-can-am-spyder-f3-series-repair-and-maintenance-manual/


https://www.google.com/search?clien...HS2cCEgQBSgAegQIGBAC&biw=1176&bih=541&dpr=1.1

Many links and has links to previous posts on this forum about manuals..........


Searched that and got the same results. Nothing found for a hard copy for my year. I wont get one for another year even if it's similar just in case BRP made changes. Last thing I want to do is splice into a wire thinking it's positive when its negative based on color, or troubleshoot something wrong or test a circuit incorrectly because of a design change. Been there done that. That can of worms and second guessing is the worst.
 
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