Recall done. Not sure they put the right sprocket on.

[Isopedella]

Recall sprocket completed.
I have noticed my belt was tracking way out, hard against the outside of the front pulley.
Noise and smelling really hot.

Pulled the Sprocket and its part number is 705503244. My washer is dark and measures 5mm.

The recall notice says it should be kit 219800553. Picture shows a bright shiny washer.



This is what I pulled off. Are they correct?



My reckoning the whole sprocket they fitted needs to move 5mm or so further out.
That will realign with the rear and fix the tracking. Wondering if the correct sprocket was fitted.

Thoughts on this?

 

[Peter Aawen]

IIRC, the 'Kit Part Number' is the Part Number for that sprocket AND the Washer, with the sprocket still having its own unique part number too! So AFAIK it looks like you got the correct Kit which is made up of the correct Sprocket as shown AND the washer you've shown. :thumbup:

Then when you install it all, the Washer should be the first thing that goes onto the shaft, as shown in your pic 2 with the washer installed on the shaft closest to the block, ie, on the Inside/motor side of the sprocket; where the sprocket should have a machined surface that mates with the washer. Then you need to put the specified locktite onto the cleaned Spline surfaces before installing the sprocket onto the shaft with the other side/outer side of the sprocket showing the Part number visible rather than facing the block; and it should then have the naked screw affixed as it is - ie, NOT with the washer supplied in the Kit between it and the Sprocket! :gaah:

So if your sprocket was installed with the washer on the outer side of the sprocket between the screw and the sprocket, then THAT WAS WRONG, and that's very likely what was causing your belt to run incorrectly on the front sprocket! :banghead:

Btw, don't forget to allow enough cure time for the locktite when you re-install the sprocket - your Spyder should stand for at least 8 hours before being ridden, or the locktite may not cure properly and therefore be unable to do what it's meant to do in order to carry it's share of preventing this 'fretting failure' that's caused the recall! :lecturef_smilie:

Good Luck! :2thumbs:

 

[Isopedella]

Cheers Peter. Was correctly installed.

Trying to figure out just why the belt is binding on the outside retaining rim of the sprocket.
Was fine and running in the in the center with the old one.

Binding. Its getting hot and i can smell and hear it. Neck minnit stuffed belt.

I just whipped it off and I shimmed it out 5 mm, then refitted it just now, gave it a run with its Ass in the air.

Its still very close or lightly rubbing the rim. More shims I guess. But then I am using 5-10 mil of the splines. Got me beat.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Can you show us a pic of the inside of the sprocket (it should be the side WITHOUT the part number showing on it... SHOULD be, that is; but then it IS a BRP part... ) from BEFORE it was installed?? :dontknow:

Those that I've personally seen have had a clearly evident machined surface that mates with the washer on the block side of the sprocket; but a few of the local 'home-spanner spinners' around here have told me that they don't think their sprockets had that, despite their installed sprockets looking to have the correct number & the same coloured ceramic coating as yours, rather than the 'White' coating that was specified for the sprockets intended to resolve the whistling noise some complained about from just before the recall hit the streets, or any of the earlier non ceramic-coated sprockets.

Don't worry too much &/or go pulling the sprocket off just to take a pic for me - it's really not a major issue to me either way; but for interests sake I would like to know/see if yours had it... Or has BRP released some of the 'Recall Kit' sprockets without the machining?? And if so, why?? :dontknow:

 

[Isopedella]

"Can you show us a pic of the inside of the sprocket"

Yup I will post up some snaps.... tomorrow.
My excuse is its just hit Brown O clock here and the Roast Lamb aromas are wafting through.
Enjoying some of the 8th and possibly 9th wonders of the world as I type.

The sprocket is silver. Its parked up and wont take 5 minutes to get it off.
Up n the jack with its Ass is the air. All covers removed.

 

[Isopedella]

Photos. Seems to be roughly machined. Grind marks visible.

Inside

Outside


Seems to be the correct part. Confirmed with a photo.
Numbers match with what was put on a a 2017 17 RTL recently.
Same part for the F3?

I'm sure I get get the belt to run correctly, by shimming beside the washer, to run without binding in the center of the front sprocket, but giving up some spline binding, and mounting bolt threads too I guess.

Cant understand why it out of line with the OEM fit up.

Not sure where to go with this.

 

[WDAVEY]

just curious, where is the belt running on the rear sprocket? Did the dealer mess with the adjusters to get the belt off/on?

 

[Isopedella]

just curious, where is the belt running on the rear sprocket? Did the dealer mess with the adjusters to get the belt off/on?

Fair question. I can adjust the belt to run just fine at the rear.
The front tracking is the problem and got me stuffed.
I have removed and refitted that belt several times, placed it nicely and central in the front, and it moves out to seriously bind with the o/s collar.

As to what the dealer did I dont know.
But the simple way to get the belt it just to walk it off. Cant imagine they would do anything different.

 

[Peter Aawen]

.....

Not sure where to go with this.

It does look/sound like it's all the right bits; and you've aligned the back end of the belt properly a couple of times already, haven't you?? So why is the belt running so far out on the front sprocket??? I too don't really know where to go with this.... :banghead:

However, I can say that the inside collar in those pics of yours doesn't really look like those on the sprockets I've seen, which have all had a clearly visible & shiny 'machined collar section' with no ceramic coating on them that matches up with the washers when assembled.... but then, they were all early examples of the 'final fix' sprockets, & not necessarily the eventual production run versions of the latest sprocket, so maybe that explains the difference?! :dontknow: Still, if that shiny machined section IS meant to be there but somehow it hasn't been machined properly on the sprocket you've got there, then surely the sprocket should be running further OUT when fitted onto the shaft with the washer in place, so if it's an improperly finished sprocket, the belt should bind on the INSIDE of the sprocket, shouldn't it?? Only it clearly isn't doing that....

You've got it off atm, don't you?? Juuuust a 'grabbing at straws' thoughty here, is it worth fitting the sprocket up to see what the belt alignment looks like if you put the sprocket on the other way around, ie. with the part number facing in?? Proper fitting otherwise; washer first; then sprocket; then screw - just to see if that changes where the belt ends up?! If you haven't already tried that of course, do you reckon it's worth a shot? :dontknow:

 

[Freddy]

If the belt can be got to track correctly on the rear sprocket, that's all that matters surely. Who cares where it is on the front? It can't come off. Sure it might get hot, but it's bolted to the engine.

 

[Isopedella]

If the belt can be got to track correctly on the rear sprocket, that's all that matters surely.
Nope
Who cares where it is on the front?
I care.
It can't come off.
What the belt or the sprocket?
Sure it might get hot, but it's bolted to the engine.
Its the hot and binding belt.

I care because its binding real hard up against the outside flange.

It generating heat, enough to stink the shed out when I get home.

I care as I believe over time it will destroy the belt and require a new one.

I care as its not right.

 

[Isopedella]

Picked up some washers and getting them trimmed by a bloke with a Lathe so they fit well. I will try putting it on ass-backwards and take some measurements with my micrometer. Hell even give it a run with its ass in the air , then a road phang around our hill and home again.

Doing my head in.

 

[Freddy]

The belt can't come of the front sprocket with flanges both sides.

What you're smelling may not be the belt.

I care because its binding real hard up against the outside flange. How did you determine that?


I can understand that you care, but I don't think that there's anything to care about IF the belt tracks correctly on the rear. :cheers:

 

[Isopedella]

The belt can't come of the front sprocket with flanges both sides.

What you're smelling may not be the belt.

I care because its binding real hard up against the outside flange. How did you determine that?


I can understand that you care, but I don't think that there's anything to care about IF the belt tracks correctly on the rear. :cheers:

Well it stinks of rubber...... The belt is really hot when I put my hand on it. How do I know, why I can see it.




HOWZATT!

 

[BajaRon]

Well it stinks of rubber...... The belt is really hot when I put my hand on it. How do I know, why I can see it.

View attachment 205989 View attachment 205990View attachment 205991


HOWZATT!

I agree that if your belt is rubbing the front flange with any force at all, it needs to be corrected. You are wise to pursue a fix. The fact that your belt can't come off is comforting, short term. But not a good idea for any length of time.

Shimming is a solution. But I have a feeling that something is amiss with the install or they used the wrong spacer. Your micrometer shows 4mm width when I believe it should read 5mm. I would have to check that to be sure.

Your belt is running too far left on your rear pulley. It should be no more than 1mm~2mm from the inside flange. Basically, as close as you can get it without rubbing. I'm not saying that will resolve your front pulley issue. But it would be a step in the right direction.

The picture below is about as far out as you want your belt to be. A bit closer, in your case, would be a good idea.

 

[Isopedella]

I sure would appreciate you checking on the size of the replacement washer.

Also is it possible to get a measurement say from the outside of the sprocket to the engine.
And also the gap from engine to inside of the sprocket? Belt and braces I guess.

The recall notice shows a shiny washer....post 1 photo #2 .....mine is grey. #4

I have some shims and could add 1 mm to make 5mm, and will have another go.
I have been running out to 10 but thats too much and didn't work, and haven tried +1 mm or so I confess.

I am getting some washers turned put to match the ID of the OEM one, 18mm from memory by a mate with a small lathe.

In the supply shop I eye matched them with ID the oem one, got home and tried to slip it on, dammit 1/2 a mil or so too small to slip over the shaft.

I have set up that belt perfect central in the front 1 cc in the rear at least 3 times.
Start her up idling in gear on the jack and ...the front walks out every time.
Then I have had a play with the adjusters while running and tried to get the front to walk back in. No joy...yet.

So now im now waiting out for these washers to be available and I can reassemble it, he has the OEM grey at a his place down the road.

 

[Freddy]

With respect Iso: Start her up idling in gear on the jack ... is not the way to check alignment.

 

[Isopedella]

Ah ok. I set it up and get it as good as I can. Ass in the air, then take it for a run.

What is the correct way?

 

[Freddy]

Ride it forward a short distance, stop and check.

I take the couple of tools with me to adjust it as needed each stop until correct.

 

[Isopedella]

Yeah I hear ya. But after the run the rear spacing is ok but the front has walked out. How do I stop that?