Any Way to disable VSS/Traction control or severely dumb it down?

[Badmotorf1nger]

OK something is definitely wrong with my VSS system.
Today every time I started the bike, the first few turns I made, no matter how slow & easy I made them the SCS would kick in at front left or right tire.
After a few turns this stopped & bike rode basically normal. Didn't matter whether I was in Eco Off or Rally Mode. If I turn the bike off & start again, I go through same thing again.

I'm gonna flash the PV3 back to stock file tomorrow just to eliminate the tune as a culprit, but I doubt that's the problem. Why would the tune only make it happen for first few left & right turns?

Which sensors are primarily responsible for triggering the VSS at either front wheel? Will start by checking those to make sure they're not loose or something...

Why wait for tomorrow... I just flashed back to stock & those VSS issues disappeared.
I'm guessing something in my 2023 ECM does not like either the Dynojet PV3, or something about the tunes.
But since I'm the first guy to have a PV3 tune on a 2023 and the software doesn't show anything about VSS I'd imagine this will be very difficult to remotely pin down via e-tuning.

Will still try the wheel speed sensor bypass trick & see if that dumbs things down enough to let the tune work good enough.

 

[greer]

Try leaning FORWARD & IN to the corner, at the same time as ONLY PULLING on the inside grip of your handlebars, with no or extremely little pushing on the outside bar. Thru a lot of miles, both my own and that of the many others I've assisted, I've found that for most, pushing forwards & therefore of necessity for most over 4ft tall, also pushing downwards on the outside bar to make a corner tends to add a bunch of 'up high & outward leverage' to the outside lean of the trike, adding significantly to the body roll, and the Nanny really doesn't like that at any speed, while PULLING on the bar at the same time as leaning IN & FORWARDS, as if you were going to kiss the wrist of your inside hand on the corner, will help pull your weight & the trike's CoG into a position that the Nanny much prefers, in a way that will let you corner MUCH harder and faster than if you sit up like Jacky & push on the bars while trying to use your back & core muscles to hold you upright against all the forces that'll now be trying to throw you out & off the trike, instead of working WITH the trike & pulling yourself into leaning in and forwards, thereby aiding the Nanny in helping you get around the corner smoothly and ultimately, if you ever push it to that extreme, waaayy faster than you ever imagined possible! hyea:

Still, it's not impossible, but I doubt it's a sensor issue; it might be a steering &/or alignment issue, especially if you've never had that properly checked since the dealer assembly; & it's probably not a suspension setting issue.... But in the vast majority of Spyder/Ryker riding concerns like this, it's an operator issue. You need to come to terms with the fact that it's NOT a motorcycle like any other, it's far more like a quad or a ski-doo, and you need to adjust YOUR riding style & practices to suit. Once you do, and you start to become PROFICIENT with the necessary body english, SMOOOTH & GENTLE with all the necessary control inputs, and learn to ride RIGHT UP TO BUT NEVER TRIGGERING THE NANNY, things will fall into place and you'll find it an absolute blast, WITHOUT triggering the Nanny all the time!! :yes:

These Spyder/Ryker things are FAR more agile than you might think during the learning phase, when thru your own actions (or inactions) you might be unknowingly triggering the Nanny way more often than necessary, but the Nanny is really only trying to help you get better at doing the right thing! Every time the Nanny steps in, think a little about what YOU might have done to trigger that intervention, and what YOU could do next time to avoid triggering her that way again. For most, it doesn't take a massive amount of time, altho it might be a thousand miles or more; but for some....

Just Sayin' - again! :thumbup:

Thanks Peter, I needed this.

Sarah

 

[guber]

I have a 2023 Ryker 600. New to me maybe 400 mi. Going down the road at 45 mile per hour It seems like the brakes are being slightly applied. Can this happen without getting any kind of light in the display?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have a 2023 Ryker 600. New to me maybe 400 mi. Going down the road at 45 mile per hour It seems like the brakes are being slightly applied. Can this happen without getting any kind of light in the display?

I think what you feeling is " engine braking " ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[guber]

Would I get engine braking holding the throttle steady?

 

[DickB]

I have a 2023 Ryker 600. New to me maybe 400 mi. Going down the road at 45 mile per hour It seems like the brakes are being slightly applied. Can this happen without getting any kind of light in the display?

Could use more details. What exactly makes you feel that the brakes are being applied? Is it a steady feeling or more like pulsing on and off? Straight or curve?

 

[guber]

Straight flat road. It would be random pulsing. Could be slight stumble in the engine but at the high RPMs doesn't seem likely. or maybe?

 

[DickB]

It could be something faulty in the stability control, such as a bad Steering Angle Sensor or Yaw Rate Sensor, but I've only seen problems reported in curves. As you are under warranty, I would have your dealer check it out. whatever it is, it's not normal.

 

[BajaRon]

Straight flat road. It would be random pulsing. Could be slight stumble in the engine but at the high RPMs doesn't seem likely. or maybe?

Could be belt slippage. Have you checked your CVT air filter?

 

[DickB]

Could be belt slippage. Have you checked your CVT air filter?

At 400 miles?

 

[greer]

Does it happen only at that speed, guber?

Sarah

 

[guber]

Okay I checked it again. I found it appears/I noticed it when I had the cruise control on. So it must be the engine modulating the speed. Not the smoothest operation.

 

[greer]

I've not used cruise control a whole lot, so I can't comment there. But I'm glad to hear the bike's okay.

Sarah

 

[Cobranut]

I'm still looking for a way to selectively disable traction control and VSS on my 2015 F3S SM6.
I haven't found a way to do it with BUDS or the Dynojet PV4.

I'm thinking of the possibility of adding a switch to connect the rear wheel speed sensor to one of the fronts, making the ECU think the wheel speeds are the same.
What I'm concerned about is the service manual mentions that the cruise control will disconnect if it detects clutch slippage.
Of course I wouldn't have TCS disabled when using the cruise, but if it has that capability, would the ECU think it was clutch slippage when the engine speed increases while the rear wheel speed doesn't. I'm thinking it might put it into limp mode.

Has anyone else attempted such a mod, and what were the results?
I may have to be the first to try this, but I'm a bit concerned about cutting into the harness without knowing if I'll be able to accomplish my goal.

Thanks for any input or thoughts on this mod. It would be fun to be able to light up the tire and drift the trike at relatively low speeds.

 

[Raven]

This has come up before.
There is a way, Treal Performance was able to do it to run a Ryker on a dyno.
YouTube video of the dyno run.
Maybe they could help you.

 

[Cobranut]

This has come up before.
There is a way, Treal Performance was able to do it to run a Ryker on a dyno.
YouTube video of the dyno run.
Maybe they could help you.

BUDS has a dyno mode to allow for testing, but as soon as the front wheel speed exceeds a few MPH it disengages.

That does give me another idea though, perhaps disconnecting both front sensors would allow it to stay in dyno mode, but would likely need to be re-engaged after every start cycle, so not a practical solution.

 

[BajaRon]

This is a very dangerous pursuit. BRP hires retired professional racers to test their vehicles. Lamont and I were, at one time, privileged to be able to sit and talk with these guys. With a skill level easily above all of us. They warned of dire consequences suffered with the VSS off line.

They told us of test vehicles that had switchable VSS. They were very adamant that it was not a good idea to run without VSS engaged. They said that the Spyder will throw you like a lawn dart if you turn it off. That you will find yourself face down in the dirt before you can react. Intimating that it was a 'Been There, Done That' moment for more than one of their professional riders.

It is not uncommon to think that we are better riders than we actually are. Including myself. Don't find out the hard way that these guys are right.

 

[Jackhartjr]

Badmotorf1nger.
No disrespect meant at all here.
You remind me of guys I know that want to tune a Detroit Series 60 to 700 and 800hp.
We tell them not to, that the motor will probably blow. And normally, sooner than later, it always does!
A lot of folks here have given you good advice!
Please don't blow your motor, or your life sir!

 

[Mikey]

This is a very dangerous pursuit. BRP hires retired professional racers to test their vehicles. Lamont and I were, at one time, privileged to be able to sit and talk with these guys. With a skill level easily above all of us. They warned of dire consequences suffered with the VSS off line.

They told us of test vehicles that had switchable VSS. They were very adamant that it was not a good idea to run without VSS engaged. They said that the Spyder will throw you like a lawn dart if you turn it off. That you will find yourself face down in the dirt before you can react. Intimating that it was a 'Been There, Done That' moment for more than one of their professional riders.

It is not uncommon to think that we are better riders than we actually are. Including myself. Don't find out the hard way that these guys are right.

Well said Ron!!

 

[nightfalcon]

By leaving the engine turned off, you will not only disable VSS, but you'll also ensure that you won't face plant... Win win, when ya think about it.