Can someone please assist, on my 2012 Can-Am Spyder RT we had a brake failure warning, and the code displayed is C1282 Low pressure. I was able to reset the code, but a few miles later the warning came back on, the brake fluid was full and the brake pedal was firm, and all brakes engage and release with no issues. I know I can rest the warning light, but I am sure it will come back on, someone did tell me it could be master cylinder failure, but if that was the issue I don't think the brake pedal would be firm. Forgot to mention that the Emergency brake works fine and there are no leaks. Before I take it to a dealer and pay a fortune to have it fixed, I was hoping for some help from others who might experience this issue.
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C1282 Code Low Pressure Brake Failure - any ideas??
- Thread starter Knipper
- Start date
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
How it works…..
There are two switches on your brake pedal linkage on your 2012. As you depress the pedal, the first switch to actuate is the brake light switch. You know what that one does. As you continue to depress the pedal, a second switch then actuates. That is the low pressure switch. That switch actually measures the amount of brake pedal TRAVEL. When that switch actuates, it signals the ECM to check brake system pressure. If the pressure has not exceeded 500# with that amount of pedal travel, then you get C1282. So, it’s a brake pressure vs pedal travel check.
The pedal can still feel firm, it has just travelled too far before pressure built up, based on what the engineers expected.
Historically, this is usually a sign that your brake system is overdue for a flush and replace with new fluid. Any idea if that has ever been done on that machine? It also can be a sign that brake pads are over-worn and need replaced. You asked about front brakes a couple years ago. Did they get replaced?
There have been folks that have had issues with road dirt and muck building up inside of that little enclosure where those two switches are. It interferes with operation and causes the switches to stick or not release when required. They’re just micro switches with little actuation arms on them. It doesn’t hurt to rinse out that area. The switches are sealed. Crawl around under there and you’ll find it.
Seldom is it actually a leak or master cylinder failure. 99% of the time, it just needs maintenance.
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Thanks for the info, I did flush out the front brakes, but I am having an issue with the rear, it's difficult to get a wrench on the bleed port, but now I think take it to the shop and see if they can flush them on a machine. The front pads are in need of replacement and I will get it done soon. Thanks for the help I let you know how it works out.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Some things to consider....
I would use EBC pads FA474V...assuming you're talking about the front ones. Those are the ones BajaRon sells - he did all of the research and those will for sure fit. Plus you know that you will get the clips. Recommend you buy them from Ron in order to support forum vendors. You can click on his banner on the forum home page and then just scroll down on his product page. Make sure that you bed-in the pads as suggested and go ahead and use the anti-squeal compound if you want, as you re-assemble everything.
If you jack up the Spyder under the main frame with your motorcycle type jack - provided that you have one - that will raise the frame and allow the rear caliper to drop below the muffler somewhat and get you better access. However, there's still going to be a bit of crawling around on the floor involved for that rear caliper. So, it all depends on your level of ability.
Using Speed Bleeders makes bleeding / flushing a brake system stupid easy, and eliminates all of the issues with synchronizing your operation of the bleeder valve with the operation of the brake pedal. I would go straight to the source and avoid any possible copy cats.
http://www.speedbleeder.com
While you are flushing the system and replacing brake pads, make sure that you keep the ignition key off in order to avoid tripping any codes. Then, after you are all done and have pumped up the system with the pedal and topped off the reservoir- and it all feels great - then turn on the key and ride it. Of course, if you have BUDS, then that's not really a concern, since you can reset any faults with BUDS.
If history prevails, once you finish flushing the system and replace the front pads, follow the procedure I gave you in your other thread, (https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...liper-Piston-on-2012-RT&p=1674910#post1674910) and your C1282 should reset and stay reset.
Have fun.
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BertRemington
New member
Snowbelt said
This is important to ensure proper parking brake operation when you turn on the key. You want the pads seated on the rotor.
Thanks for all your help all brakes have been flushed, still have brake failure. When I run codes is still shows C1282, low pressure. However, when I push down on the pedal, I hear one click and not two. Could the switch be bad? If it is the switch, why is the low-pressure code displayed? I flushed the brakes with a friend of mine and went to take it to the dealer, but they wanted $600 just to flush the brakes using their BUDs system, thought that was crazy high. The brakes seem fine, barely put any pressure on the pedal and the bike stops.
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Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Did you try the reset procedure I gave you in your other thread? And yes, you don’t always hear the second click. C1282 is a code that seals in. You have to either reset it by that procedure, or reset it with BUDS. And pressing the pedal HARD, means HARD. It doesn’t reset all on its own the way other codes do.
Remember that the switch does not measure brake system pressure. It measures pedal travel distance. When that switch gets actuated, it tells the ECM to measure brake system pressure. If the pressure is not above 500#, that's what triggers your fault code. In other words, the pressure has not gone above 500# by the time the pedal has travelled that distance. But again, a low pressure fault that you have now can just be the leftover fault, from before, that hasn't been reset yet. It's not a live, updated, reading of current pressure. Your brake system is probably fine. The fault code just needs to get reset.
One possibility that's been reported on here before, is that goop and muck can accumulate inside of that little enclosure where those two switches are. It will cause the switches to stick. You'll need to crawl under there and follow the brake linkage, and you'll see it. A stuck switch could cause this. Just flush it out.
If all else fails, anyone with BUDS can clear codes for you. Then you can see if it returns. Wish you were closer.
Remember that the switch does not measure brake system pressure. It measures pedal travel distance. When that switch gets actuated, it tells the ECM to measure brake system pressure. If the pressure is not above 500#, that's what triggers your fault code. In other words, the pressure has not gone above 500# by the time the pedal has travelled that distance. But again, a low pressure fault that you have now can just be the leftover fault, from before, that hasn't been reset yet. It's not a live, updated, reading of current pressure. Your brake system is probably fine. The fault code just needs to get reset.
One possibility that's been reported on here before, is that goop and muck can accumulate inside of that little enclosure where those two switches are. It will cause the switches to stick. You'll need to crawl under there and follow the brake linkage, and you'll see it. A stuck switch could cause this. Just flush it out.
If all else fails, anyone with BUDS can clear codes for you. Then you can see if it returns. Wish you were closer.
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Coolvirgo54
New member
make sure your park brake is adjusted properly as well. The park brake pushes directly onto the caliper piston. If you hold your foot on the brake while you engage park you will feel the brake pedal move downwards. When the pads are worn the pedal will travel a fair way and it is common that it triggers the low pressure switch unless handbrake adjustment is corrected. Has happened to me every time time the pads are nearly worn out. 1330's have a different engagement mechanism and don't seem to have the problem.
NorwegianRT
Active member
I just had the same code on my 2012 RTS.
It popped up after I had flushed the brakes (not the abs pump) Pedal felt fine and not as much travel distance as before.
Also took it for a test drive and brakes operate better than before flushing.
Found this method in another thread and it got rid of the code in my case.
I stepped on the brake pedal with full weight, turned on ignition and waited for the startup session to finish. Pushed "mode" button (no need to start engine) and waited 30 seconds.
Then turned off the ignition while remaining on the pedal until the computer was completely shut down.
Stepped off the pedal and did a normal start up and everything was good, no more fault message or codes!
My brake pads are fairly good still and not that worn that they should throw this code, so I reckon it was something I did while bleeding the brakes.
It popped up after I had flushed the brakes (not the abs pump) Pedal felt fine and not as much travel distance as before.
Also took it for a test drive and brakes operate better than before flushing.
Found this method in another thread and it got rid of the code in my case.
I stepped on the brake pedal with full weight, turned on ignition and waited for the startup session to finish. Pushed "mode" button (no need to start engine) and waited 30 seconds.
Then turned off the ignition while remaining on the pedal until the computer was completely shut down.
Stepped off the pedal and did a normal start up and everything was good, no more fault message or codes!
My brake pads are fairly good still and not that worn that they should throw this code, so I reckon it was something I did while bleeding the brakes.
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