SE6 downshifting erratic- anyone else? Ideas/fixes?

[BamaJohn]

Anyone else had this happen?
On my 2020 RT SE6, I'm repeatedly having downshifts not engaging, requiring multiple tries to shift. Twice, I've removed the assembly cover and sprayed contact cleaner, which SEEMS to make it work more consistently for a very short time, then the same issue recurs.
It's not a major issue, and I've tried pressing the forefinger in different locations on the switch lever, only haven't found a sweet spot yet.
The upshifting works smoothly every time.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Anyone else had this happen?
On my 2020 RT SE6, I'm repeatedly having downshifts not engaging, requiring multiple tries to shift. Twice, I've removed the assembly cover and sprayed contact cleaner, which SEEMS to make it work more consistently for a very short time, then the same issue recurs.
It's not a major issue, and I've tried pressing the forefinger in different locations on the switch lever, only haven't found a sweet spot yet.
The upshifting works smoothly every time.

For the past few model years ..... PADDLE Shifters have had more than avg. amount of issues .... lots of folks here couldn't even get them re-placed because they were Back-ordered.... You'll need BUDS to bring any codes that are not accessible to you .... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BertRemington]

When (mileage/date) did this start occurring? What RPM? Does automatic downshift with foot on and off brake pedal work properly? Contact cleaner is contra-indicated as most left-hand buttons including shifter operate chemically-sensitive membrane-sealed "bubble" switches that generate CANBUS messages commanding shift.

 

[BamaJohn]

HMMMMMMM........Thanks for your reply, was not aware...duh me.
Started about 5 months ago; mileage now is 12,665miles; not RPM related that I notice; auto down-shift works, but I'll have to see tomorrow if that works with foot on & off brake pedal.
The hand selector/paddle downshifts fine if I find the exact spot to press. It's just noticeably harder and more finicky than the up-shift lever.

 

[JSRT]

You may have a broken spring in the paddle shifter. Here’s a link that may help. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?151151-2015-Spyder-RT-SE6-shifting-problems

 

[BamaJohn]

You may have a broken spring in the paddle shifter. Here’s a link that may help. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?151151-2015-Spyder-RT-SE6-shifting-problems

Thanks for that, I'll take a look at my shifter soon...a day ride tomorrow, then 5 days around north GA, SW North Carolina, Eastern Tenn., then house guests for a week. (sometimes, things come in bunches...all good!)

 

[Pooch]

Just curious.. when are you using the manual downshifting?
I might have misinterpreted your first post but to me it sounds like you are using it often.
The only time I have had to manually downshift my 21 RTL was either going up or down a VERY steep incline.
Otherwise I let the Spyder do its automatic downshift.. as when slowing down coming up to slow traffic or a light.. it downshifts itself great.
10,000 on the odometer.
Just wondering if I am not driving it correctly.. this is my first Spyder.
Thanks..

 

[ARtraveler]

Once you get the wonky shifts figured out. Another card on the pile for let the bike do the downshifting. I let it do its own thing 99% of the time. If I need to get up and go, I will downshift and hit the throttle.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Just curious.. when are you using the manual downshifting?
I might have misinterpreted your first post but to me it sounds like you are using it often.
The only time I have had to manually downshift my 21 RTL was either going up or down a VERY steep incline.
Otherwise I let the Spyder do its automatic downshift.. as when slowing down coming up to slow traffic or a light.. it downshifts itself great.
10,000 on the odometer.
Just wondering if I am not driving it correctly.. this is my first Spyder.
Thanks..

There's nothing intrinsically 'Wrong' with what you're doing, but it does pay to remember that the SE gearboxes are still inherently MANUAL gearboxes with the addition of a centrifugal (SE5) or hydraulic (SE6) clutch that'll look after itself so that you don't hafta worry about getting your hand controls right, teamed with some computer software & sexy 'Quick-shift' features courtesy of the electro-solenoid shifters, with the 'auto downshift' capability included as a 'Fail-Safe' for when you forget to down-shift yourself, or if you are in too high a gear for the throttle input & road speed, so you are risking running too much torque for the clutch et al thru the transmission!! :lecturef_smilie:

If you're coasting to slow (not engine braking) or coasting up to a stop light & basically driving/riding it so gently at that time that there's going to be little difference in your manually initiated downshifts and it's fail-safe prompted down shifts, then sure, let it trigger them most of those times, but when & if you're riding it a little more actively than that, it's STILL a manual gearbox, there's absolutely nothing about it that's 'automatic' so much as some smart 'cover your arse' capabilities, and strictly speaking, you should generally use it just as you'd use any other MANUAL GEARBOX, even if it does have the added benefit of that sexy electro-solenoid Quick-shift capability & those 'cover your arse' capabilities for when you get it wrong!!

Just Sayin' :thumbup:

 

[EdMat]

Anyone else had this happen?
On my 2020 RT SE6, I'm repeatedly having downshifts not engaging, requiring multiple tries to shift. Twice, I've removed the assembly cover and sprayed contact cleaner, which SEEMS to make it work more consistently for a very short time, then the same issue recurs.
It's not a major issue, and I've tried pressing the forefinger in different locations on the switch lever, only haven't found a sweet spot yet.
The upshifting works smoothly every time.

Any problems shifting into reverse?

Contact cleaner is a short term answer. You might want to try CorrosionX. Remove the contacts from the housing and get a rag under it so everything does not get coated. Spray it down then work it gently to activate the contacts, both sets. Use caution when opening the housing and freeing the switch. There are 4 little balls that the switch presses against that can get lost forever.

 

[BertRemington]

EdMat -- are you saying the paddle shift switch contacts are exposed to the open air? My understanding was they were sealed under a membrane. Could you confirm this please. Thanks.

If the contacts are exposed, I suggest DeOxit after CorrosionX. Frightfully expensive though.

 

[EdMat]

EdMat -- are you saying the paddle shift switch contacts are exposed to the open air? My understanding was they were sealed under a membrane. Could you confirm this please. Thanks.

If the contacts are exposed, I suggest DeOxit after CorrosionX. Frightfully expensive though.

No they are not exposed but it seems the membrane they are housed in is permeable where the upper and lower half are joined.

Both DeOxit and CorrosionX are higher priced. I have been using the same can for years. Started using it on RC Boat receivers. Coating the insides of the receiver before installation allowed for several racing incidents involving going under water without lasting problems.

 

[BamaJohn]

Just curious.. when are you using the manual downshifting?
I might have misinterpreted your first post but to me it sounds like you are using it often.
The only time I have had to manually downshift my 21 RTL was either going up or down a VERY steep incline.
Otherwise I let the Spyder do its automatic downshift.. as when slowing down coming up to slow traffic or a light.. it downshifts itself great.
10,000 on the odometer.
Just wondering if I am not driving it correctly.. this is my first Spyder.
Thanks..

You're not doing it wrong. As for me, it depends on the kind of riding I'm doing at the time. If the mood is to just smell the roses and absorb the surroundings, I let the Spyder downshift at its whim. If on a brisk ride in the twisties, I keep the rpm's higher and manually downshift to let engine braking help...a carryover from decades of 2-wheel riding (lots of varied opinions on that subject alone). In my opinion too, is that manually downshifting is required when passing other vehicles. Bottom line: there is no single right way to ride.
(I see others weighed in with similar commentary, sorry to duplicate)

 

[BamaJohn]

Thanks to all for their posts. I don't see this as a problem...but as an irritating, occasional thing. I just want the downshifting to be as smooth & consistent as the upshifting.
About to shower, dress, and go on a daylong ride......cheers!

UPDATE 4/24/23: The issue is apparently resolved. After Saturday's 250 mile ride, the downshifting was almost impossible to accomplish manually, so I disassembled the left-hand controls module, then removed the manual shifting mechanism (on this 2020 RT, the little ball bearings are captive and don't fall out). I could find nothing that seemed out of sorts, so I then tried to shift the Spyder by pushing with my finger on the two small switches....both seemed to click each time I pushed on them, so I reassembled the assembly.
Test rides Saturday, and a longer ride Sunday, and miracles DO happen...it shifted like it was new! It downshifted smoothly and consistently throughout the ride!
I have no idea why it started being an issue, nor what made it go away, but I'm thankful for the gift.