Seat/Frunk Latch Release not working - any suggestions? Anyone else?

[loopd]

I put too much pressure on the seat release at the ignition switch and something snapped. Now both the frunk and seat release latches do not operate. When I turn the key neither of the latch release cables tighten at the latches. Note that this happened when the frunk was open, and I was able to get the seat off. So I have visibility on both of the latches.

Looking for any thoughts or suggestions as to what might be broken. Or anyone else who may have experienced this problem. And any guidance on how to get to the potential problem. I have searched posts and youtubes with little success.

I did find the videos on emergency frunk/seat releases, and I will probably do that if I cannot figure out how to get this repaired.

Thanks, loopd

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I put too much pressure on the seat release at the ignition switch and something snapped. Now both the frunk and seat release latches do not operate. When I turn the key neither of the latch release cables tighten at the latches. Note this happened when the frunk was open and I was able to get the seat off. So I have visibility on both of the latches.

Looking for any thoughts or suggestions as to what might be broken. Or anyone else who may have experienced this problem. And any guidance on how to get to the potential problem. I have searched posts and youtubes with little success.

I did find the videos on emergency frunk / seat releases and I will probably do that if I cannot figure out how to get this repaired.

Thanks, loopd

I have heard of one or the other breaking but not both at the same time. So I suspect it's on the Ignition switch it-self. ..... Fixing the seat latch is simple, just put a piece of wood or foam or folded up cardboard in the LATCH to keep it from closing ..... The Frunk is going to need a cable pull put on the Latch LEVER. .... run the cable to the left front grill area, it's out of sight there .... I did both on my 14 RT about 8 years ago Good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[safecracker]

On my 2011 I had that happen to me. What I did was follow the cable from the seat latch and cut the cable as it started going up to the handle bars. I then drilled a hole in the glove box and threaded the cable into that. Stripped about 4"s off, looped the end, and put a ferrule on it. On the frunk I removed the left front light housing and I cut the cable as it started going into the handle bars. I then ran it over to the left side, side panel. Stripped and put a loop and ferrule on that end. Problem solved. Since mine is a 2011, I also have a frunk release switch to unlatch the frunk. Bruce

 

[2dogs]

Don't know which Spyder you have, but with my '14 RT I can pop out the speaker covers and get a good view of the mechanism from either side. Do the same and you can follow the cables and search out the problem.

 

[Peteoz]

It will help if you tell us which model and year you have, loopd, as body panels (and thus, access), vary significantly.

Pete

 

[Columbia]

BlueKnight
I can't insert a photo in a PM, so I'm putting them in this thread.
Below are two photos, the second is my seat latch, showing the post's hole and the locking tab. The first shows foam in the post hole, and an arrow pointing to where foam might go to hold an unlocked cable possible location to jam foam to keep unlocked tab out of post hole. What a sentence! I'm not at all clear on where foam is supposed to go....

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BlueKnight
I can't insert a photo in a PM, so I'm putting them in this thread.
Below are two photos, the second is my seat latch, showing the post's hole and the locking tab. The first shows foam in the post hole, and an arrow pointing to where foam might go to hold an unlocked cable possible location to jam foam to keep unlocked tab out of post hole. What a sentence! I'm not at all clear on where foam is supposed to go....

View attachment 199556 View attachment 199557

I sent you a PM ..... I can't see the RELEASE CABLE in either pic..... take more pics with better lighting .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[2dogs]

On my '14 RT that key "push and twist" disengagement system totally sucks! But it is what it is, and I have to learn to live with it. I/you must be very deliberate to make that system work properly. Carefully lubing each latch helps immensely. Also, I had to readjust my seat latch to make it function more easily. Now when I release the seat, I exert a slight downward pressure with my hand on the seat directly over the seat latch and it opens flawlessly. Good luck

 

[JayBros]

I too have a '14 RT-S but I purchased a Comfort Seat as part of the OTD deal and whoever installed the CS left the lug, PN 705002223, with more slack in it that really needed, probably for my convenience. Very early on I carefully took out some of the slack but ultimately left what was adequate free play in it when the seat was latched. With a little periodic lubrication, white lithium grease and spray silicone, everything has worked fine through close to 82K miles.