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Parking brake fail - any ideas on where to start? Many factors to consider....

Wmoater

Active member
I’ve got a mess going on and not sure where to start. I took my spyder in for the intermittent sprocket recall. I hit a huge rain storm last week and it’s squealing like a bad fan belt on a car. Let off throttle and I hear a clunk/squeak from sprocket. 3 days later after it all dried out barely no noise. They Didn’t replace the sprocket but put a different pin, replaced a bolt, used the higher torque specs given by BRP made mark and said it needs to come in next couple weeks. Also re mollyed everything. If it rotates 4 degrees or more the sprocket gets replaced even though it met the correct measurements and just a speck of red dust. While there, my insurance warranty part after almost 1 year wait came in so the removed the frunk and replaced the fog left fog light assembly. They call and everything done. I go to pick up and it starts just fine. Release parking brake and the steady brake light comes on won’t release. Shut down, beeps for 20 seconds. Hit kill switch, wait till everything shuts down. Wait for 10 seconds. Turn kill switch back on, turn key,push eco, put foot on brake and start. Starts fine, Release parking brake, and it’s still engaged. Walk inside and ask what’s going on to mechanic. He comes out and we go through process again. Same thing. I say grab a 12mm wrench and let’s loosen the brake, back up and forward and see if something locked. Mechanic loosens brake and I back up, pull forward. Hit parking brake even though it’s not engaged and light goes off and parking brake motor engages for sure. Pulled loose cable forward. We tighten brake back in and test again. Works perfect! Test 2 more times, perfect! Drive to front of store and load into trailer. Turn off and go to turn on one more time and brake light stays on but now I get this ebd malfunction. WaLk back in and mechanic says I’ll have to look at on Friday. It was literally the end of the day. We loosened brake cable and I drove it back in garage. Oil levels looked good he said, we pulled the main relay and restarted. Everything the same. Here’s all the stuff leading up to it I question. Could battery since it was removed with frunk need retightened? It engaged fine 3 times after it was removed and tightened, so to me it’s possibly the brake motor? The parking brake dash switch was replaced, when I hit the deer originally last October. The original dash switch was busted and crushed so it could be the new dash switch, don’t think so but maybe. I’m sure he’s going to charge me for the diagnosis even though it went in fine and he parked it yet it was broke when I tried to move it. Not sure if the recall removes or loosens rear wheel but maybe some sensor moved. My feelings, add a spoon of brake fluid, retighten battery, loosen parking brake and maybe wipe the little switch by the cable wheel on the right side to make sure there’s no dirt in there, assemble and test again. If not it has to be motor or dash switch correct? I can hear the relay click as I push the dash switch but nothing moves on the cable wheel. What would cause the EBD malfunction? Strange it worked fine and then that error.
 
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I don't have your answer but when I searched 'parking brake failure' I got an evening's worth of reading fodder.
 
I had the same problem with the parking brake. There were codes for the switch and the motor for the parking brake. The dealer replaced them both and no more issues.
 
had the problem. resolved the problem by properly adjusting cable from actuating wheel located on rt side to brake caliper, also check micro switch which turns indicator light on and off. I believe if cable is too tight it will lock the brake in on position. If too loose there is the possibility the cable will disengage from actuating wheel. I do carry a wheel chock in the event it happens again i can release the caliper and get home.
 
Bottom line is your parking brake system is acting up after being in the shop for other work and now it's back in the shop awaiting diagnosis. Is that right?

If so, I'm not clear on what you're asking of the SL community at this point.
 
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Bottom line is your parking brake system is acting up after being in the shop for other work and now it's back in the shop awaiting diagnosis. Is that right?

If so, I'm not clear on what you're asking of the SL community at this point.

I guess how to determine what might be wrong and causing the EBD failure. Every thread I’ve read is primarily about the adjustment of the cable and adding a teaspoon of oil to make the parking brake work again, but very few solutions or comebacks on what the EBD failure cure is. Most stated, replaced everything like MNDK mentioned above. The parking brake warning light is popular but the EBD failure isn’t, so what could be the culprit? Oil, battery, switch, relay, motor, micro switch, brake pedal? What’s the process others have done to eliminate each part to figure out how to get rid of the EBD failure. I’d like to have and idea and game plan myself so I have and idea how he’s going to diagnose it.
 
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At the dealership the mechanic told me he disconnected and reattached the battery. Added 2 squirts of brake fluid under the seat. Loosened, removed, sprayed cable lube in the rubber tube, connected, and readjusted the brake cable on the rear tire. Removed the side panel and wiped a thin cloth through the micro switch and applied electrical spray to the microswitch connectors and motor. Sprayed cable lube at motor end of cable and tube. Blew out both brake pedal switches with air. Attached to machine and cleared the codes. Started and all was good. Dealer did not charge anything which I was very surprised and appreciated. Ran it today and tested it probably 20-30 times and worked perfect. No EBD failure warnings and parking brake light removed after pushing dash switch like it was suppose to. Just passing on what cured my EBD warning failure.
 
Glad to hear everything worked out for you. Was following this thread for future reference. Thank you for posting the solution.
 
had the problem. resolved the problem by properly adjusting cable from actuating wheel located on rt side to brake caliper, also check micro switch which turns indicator light on and off. I believe if cable is too tight it will lock the brake in on position. If too loose there is the possibility the cable will disengage from actuating wheel. I do carry a wheel chock in the event it happens again i can release the caliper and get home.

:agree: I never leave home without my (2) small wheel chocks:lecturef_smilie:


wheel chocks.jpg
 
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