• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What Analog gauge replacements did you use?

Hound -- Glowshift has your voltmeter https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-622-trailer&p=1562238&viewfull=1#post1562238

And I'll be replacing the voltmeter with their clock because watching voltage is boring with the Spyder's 1KW alternator and my Shorai LFX battery (soon there will be two -- just got the cable fabrication tools).

It's not worth sending just the voltmeter to you but if you would also like an oil pressure gauge, I can build a plug-and-play kit for you and send you both gauges for cost of materials and shipping. Let me know if you are interested.

WRT to SAE port here's what I used https://www.amazon.com/OptiMATE-Cable-Weatherproof-socket-panel/dp/B01N57XLNS Very nice recommended.
 
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Replaced both. Installed a standard cigarette lighter receptacle on one side and a combo volt gauge and USB port on the other. In the center switch location right behind the middle of the handlebars, I installed another volt gauge with two USB ports. I have a battery tender lead, with a 15 amp fuse block, coming directly from the battery up to the seat where it's accessible to both driver and passenger. That lead has an SAE connecter and is primarily used for our heated clothing. All these items were purchased very economically on eBay. All these items were installed very easily and function quite well. They are also waterproof.
 
You can get blanks that go in those holes then you can cut anything you want into them!!:thumbup:
 
Mikey said:
You can get blanks that go in those holes then you can cut anything you want into them!!:thumbup:
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Yes, you can. They are plastic and are 2" in diameter. They are very inexpensive and easy to install. Again eBay is a good place to find them. If you screw one up, just get another one. I found that they don't fit quite as tight as I'd like. They can move a little bit on their own as time goes by. I believe a little bit of black silicone in one or two places world prevent that movement.
 
Do a search on the voltmeter/USB port add on that I put into one of the blank spaces on the dash, where the voltmeter and oil pressure gauge is would go on a limited. Very easy installation which took me about 30 minutes.
 
Plarimer -- I didn't know the Limited had a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge. I saw nothing indicating this on the wiring diagrams. Would you please point me towards a picture of the dashboard. Thank you.

BTW the primary reason I chose analog "pointer" gauges vice digital "number" gauges is I can't read the digital gauges in sunlight with the combination of my sunglasses and photochromic faceshield (and I can't read most of the Spyder digital display either). Besides I'm kinda old school.
 
2dogs -- good one:D:D:D As you probably know LED/LCD displays have a viewing angle and often polarization issues plus there is the matter of background/foreground differential. The GlowShift gauges are a White face with Red needle. Super easy to read in all riding conditions although tricky to photograph.

So let's examine my light path. LED/LCD is transmissive and must pass through my faceshield (Bell Panovision ProTint) then my sunglasses (kinda dark and probably polarized) and then my cataract lenses (monofocal with aspherical lenses to reduce glare) so things get dim. Meanwhile the GlowShift gauges are reflective and while subject to reflective glare they aren't to light path dimming.

In the early mornings and late evenings when I'm not wearing sunglasses I can read the Spyder's LCD dashboard without difficulty. But Hey this is California the LED/LCD-unfriendly Sunshine State so sunglasses are almost a full-time thing. GlowShift is my answer. Which is why I'm replacing the voltmeter with a clock.

WRT DMV eye exam, sitting in the second row of the El Cajon waiting area I can read the entire eye chart. My ophthalmologist is very pleased with his work and I even more so.
 
BertRemington said:
Plarimer -- I didn't know the Limited had a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge. I saw nothing indicating this on the wiring diagrams. Would you please point me towards a picture of the dashboard. Thank you.

BTW the primary reason I chose analog "pointer" gauges vice digital "number" gauges is I can't read the digital gauges in sunlight with the combination of my sunglasses and photochromic faceshield (and I can't read most of the Spyder digital display either). Besides I'm kinda old school.
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If you look at Arian’s post above, that’s exactly what I put on mine. It has an active voltmeter and two USB ports. I’m very pleased with it and it was an easy installation.
 
Do Limiteds have a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge?

Plarimer -- here's where I'm confused.

You said "... where the voltmeter and oil pressure gauge is would go on a limited."

Nothing I've read said the Limiteds came with a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge.

I thought they came with fuel level and coolant temperature gauges like my RT-S.

So would you send a picture or cite a reference to a Limited with BRP voltmeter and oil pressure gauges. Thank you.

BTW I was amused to see Arion added an analog "pointer" clock to his Spyder. Probably for the same reason I'm replacing my GlowShift voltmeter with a GlowShift clock -- sunshine readability.
 
BertRemington said:
2dogs -- good one:D:D:D As you probably know LED/LCD displays have a viewing angle and often polarization issues plus there is the matter of background/foreground differential. The GlowShift gauges are a White face with Red needle. Super easy to read in all riding conditions although tricky to photograph.

So let's examine my light path. LED/LCD is transmissive and must pass through my faceshield (Bell Panovision ProTint) then my sunglasses (kinda dark and probably polarized) and then my cataract lenses (monofocal with aspherical lenses to reduce glare) so things get dim. Meanwhile the GlowShift gauges are reflective and while subject to reflective glare they aren't to light path dimming.

In the early mornings and late evenings when I'm not wearing sunglasses I can read the Spyder's LCD dashboard without difficulty. But Hey this is California the LED/LCD-unfriendly Sunshine State so sunglasses are almost a full-time thing. GlowShift is my answer. Which is why I'm replacing the voltmeter with a clock.

WRT DMV eye exam, sitting in the second row of the El Cajon waiting area I can read the entire eye chart. My ophthalmologist is very pleased with his work and I even more so.
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I get what you're say'n. I've been wearing prescription sunglasses with a G-15 polarized lens rating for years. I worked on the water which causes constant glare issues. Because I had gauges I needed to keep an eye on, I had 2-power bifocal lenses made on the very bottom of the lens. Worked very well because I didn't have to move my head to see both what was in front of me and what my gauges were telling me. Also works perfectly on my spyder. Just look down then up. Don't have to keep bobbing my head up and down. I don't use a helmet face shield. Too much distortion with glassed, faceshield and sometimes the windshield.
 
BertRemington said:
Plarimer -- I didn't know the Limited had a voltmeter and oil pressure gauge. I saw nothing indicating this on the wiring diagrams. Would you please point me towards a picture of the dashboard. Thank you.

BTW the primary reason I chose analog "pointer" gauges vice digital "number" gauges is I can't read the digital gauges in sunlight with the combination of my sunglasses and photochromic faceshield (and I can't read most of the Spyder digital display either). Besides I'm kinda old school.
Click to expand...

I’m sorry I really don’t know what kind of a spider you have, but my RT has a blank round cover on each side of the dash. If you remove that cover you will find some wiring for the gauges that could go in there. I don’t remember the exact hook up but with the Number gauge I put in, it is very bright and can be read in the daytime with no problem. It also has two USB ports.
 
Plarimer said:
I’m sorry I really don’t know what kind of a spider you have, but my RT has a blank round cover on each side of the dash. If you remove that cover you will find some wiring for the gauges that could go in there. I don’t remember the exact hook up but with the Number gauge I put in, it is very bright and can be read in the daytime with no problem. It also has two USB ports.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify for those who may not be aware but are interested, the Limited & some other up-market RT's leave the factory with an Analogue Fuel Gauge on the left, and an Analogue Coolant Temperature Gauge on the right. :ohyea:

From the 2014 Spyders & on, those analogue Fuel Gauges were a lot more accurate & reliable than the 2013 & earlier gauges, but both the gas remaining level & the low fuel warning light indication continued to be inconsistent & not reliably a heap better than a 'vague indication' of how much gas you had left in your tank, largely due to the poor location & behaviour of the sender in an odd shaped tank (btw, a tank that comes with NO Reserve - despite some of the BRP people & bunf trying to convince people otherwise! :p ) but the Coolant Temp gauges on most were pretty reliable & handy. However, if you disconnect BOTH of those Gauges (disconnecting just one of the 2 won't help!) then the Spyder that started out with these analogue gauges would revert to displaying the slightly more reliable digital fuel & temp gauges included in the dash display. :thumbup:

So only the base model Spyders & some of the 'not quite so spiffy' models came with those "blank round covers on each side of the dash". ;)
 
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Peter -- thanks for the clarification. I thought Plarimar had been confused thinking my voltmeter/oil pressure gauge modification was standard on the Limited. I have an RT-S and it appears the original owner (I'm the third) did some "up-market" additions like adjustable handlebars, fancy floorboards, etc. Anyway the voltmeter is getting replaced with a clock and the oil pressure will become oil&air pressure when I finish replacing the air suspension.
 
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