1" riser

[truck 85]

Ok I am 6'1" and even though its not that bad on short runs (40-50 miles) should i do the 1" riser or change bars i can do the work my self but would like to keep the center consold is there any way to do that with out cutting the bars. and which ones do you use and what are the pros and cons.

thanks for your help:dontknow:

 

[nudle]

:2thumbs: NMN 3" or 4" are the way to go.

 

[WackyDan]

Helibar has a setup that maintains the stock center and bars... Expensive when compared to the ESI risers though.

I'll be installing the Helibar risers next week. I got mine for free.

ESI Pros -

Adjustability
Affordable
I believe you can leave the new grip tubes longer if you so need to.

ESI cons -

Not a factory look... but who cares?

Helibar pros -

Very much a factory look - High quality product.
Can add optional Ram mount and powerlet outlet
No need to cut stock bars

Helibar cons -

Cost
Only moves bars back in one axis. Pretty much straight back 4.5 inches.


Risers are all a matter of opinion. Either setup should help with comfort. I don't think you can go wrong with either depending on your budget.

 

[Al Bragg]

My wife put the 1" riser on her spyder befor she put on the NMN 3".

I rode her spyder with the 1" riser on for a couple of weeks. It was a noticable differance.

B ut I put the 4" NMN risers on my spyder. I'm 6'3" and those risers are perfect for me.

 

[BillGargan]

The HeliBar riser is up 1" and back 4.5".

That is what I have and I love it.

 

[Al Bragg]

The HeliBar riser is up 1" and back 4.5".

That is what I have and I love it.

Would you happen to have pic you could post?

I am alway looking for different and new ideas.

 

[Neez]

Ok I am 6'1" and even though its not that bad on short runs (40-50 miles) should i do the 1" riser or change bars i can do the work my self but would like to keep the center consold is there any way to do that with out cutting the bars. and which ones do you use and what are the pros and cons.

thanks for your help:dontknow:

Truck, I tried the 1" riser and it turned out to be all I needed. But then I'm 5'8", might be different at your height. You can also get 2 and 3 inch risers of the same style in the aftermarket, but if you go to the 3 inch you wont be able to lock your handlebars with the key anymore.

 

[BillGargan]

Would you happen to have pic you could post?

I am alway looking for different and new ideas.

Sorry, I don't and my Spyder is in storage. There have been pictures in the past of what it looks like but I don't remember where -- except for the HeliBar site. Check out http://www.helibars.com/proddetail.php?prod=HR08016 and http://www.helibars.com/popup/canam/hr08016/01.html

Fundamentally what happens is they pull your bar and install the riser over the spot where it was. The ignition keyhole stays where it was and they include a cover to dress and protect it. Then the bar is mounted on the -- now rearward -- riser. Cables and wires all extend sufficiently to accommodate this and still can if you add the BRP 1" riser under the HeliBar riser.

I believe that some of the install work has challenges and/or requires special tools or skills -- particularly the initial removal of the handlebar assembly.

 

[WackyDan]

Bill,

I'm probably going to photo/video document my install this next week.

The instructions for the Helibars note that while you can use the brp 1" riser in combination, the cables tend to be too tight. The only real difference it seems is that you get one more inch of rise... and only 1/2" of rear travel if you also use the BRP Riser. I was going to get the BRP 1" to use as well until I read the instructions and what read like a disclaimer on the brp riser. I guess I'll have a good idea next week if the BRP riser would make things too iffy.

Sorry, I don't and my Spyder is in storage. There have been pictures in the past of what it looks like but I don't remember where -- except for the HeliBar site. Check out http://www.helibars.com/proddetail.php?prod=HR08016 and http://www.helibars.com/popup/canam/hr08016/01.html

Fundamentally what happens is they pull your bar and install the riser over the spot where it was. The ignition keyhole stays where it was and they include a cover to dress and protect it. Then the bar is mounted on the -- now rearward -- riser. Cables and wires all extend sufficiently to accommodate this and still can if you add the BRP 1" riser under the HeliBar riser.

I believe that some of the install work has challenges and/or requires special tools or skills -- particularly the initial removal of the handlebar assembly.

 

[sabunim5]

Truck, I tried the 1" riser and it turned out to be all I needed. But then I'm 5'8", might be different at your height. You can also get 2 and 3 inch risers of the same style in the aftermarket, but if you go to the 3 inch you wont be able to lock your handlebars with the key anymore.

I believe they come from another site sponsor, Spyder City and allow you to keep the center console and not cut the bars. I do not have them myself, I have the BRP 1 inch, which is fine for me at 5'8". A lot of different ergonomic factors go into what is comfortable besides height. Good luck on find something comfortable with the look you want. Kewmetal changes the bars entirely but I think you lose the center console. Lots of options.

 

[bjt]

I'm 6'4" and I couldn't really tell much difference in my Spyder with the BRP 1" riser and without it. I got the ESI 3" riser (in addition to the BRP 1" riser) and it made a huge difference. I would go with the ESI risers for cost, installation ease and comfort reasons. With a pipe / tubing cutter, cutting the stock bars was easy and the black ESI risers look really good on the Spyder.

 

[SpyderWolf]

I also think for someone of your height, the 1" riser is not going to make a noticeable difference. I am 5'9 and it works fine for me, but my wife has the 3" and absolutely loves them. To me it changes the bike from a sporty look to a cruising look.

 

[bone crusher]

I'm 6'4" and I couldn't really tell much difference in my Spyder with the BRP 1" riser and without it. I got the ESI 3" riser (in addition to the BRP 1" riser) and it made a huge difference. I would go with the ESI risers for cost, installation ease and comfort reasons. With a pipe / tubing cutter, cutting the stock bars was easy and the black ESI risers look really good on the Spyder.

I'm with you...I had the 1" riser and it was a small help...ESI's 3" on top of that is amazing! You can also fiddle around with the angle to get it just right. ESI's risers also effectively eliminate vibration, in my opinion. I have a throttlemeister that reduced vibration by about 50%, but after the riser addition, there is virtually NO vibration.

Go with ESI, you'll be more than happy that you did!

 

[Barbwire]

I have a set of NMM 4" with handlebars and bar end plugs for sale. The NMM riser did not bring the bars back enough for me so I had the Heli adapter installed. Had to order a new set of handlebars to make the change over that's why I have the complete set up.

 

[bone crusher]

I have a set of NMM 4" with handlebars and bar end plugs for sale. The NMM riser did not bring the bars back enough for me so I had the Heli adapter installed. Had to order a new set of handlebars to make the change over that's why I have the complete set up.

Did you rotate them toward you a little? ESI's bars, if they come out on plane with the original handlebars, just raise the grip up a little, making you grip higher, but not bringing your body up at all...if you rotate them a little towards you, you'll be more upright...