• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Air bag issue - anyone gone full manual? Info/instructions?

1supra1

New member
I have 2012 RT Limited

Compressor died due to an air leak somewhere in the system and it kept running.

I would like to change over to manual system after we find the leak.

No compressor just direct connection air bag to the Schroeder valve is what I want, just complete manual system

Anyone done this and is there a thread I can follow on how to do and what needs to be changed on the Spyder?

Thanks


Larry
 
After replacing the air bag on my 2010 (manual system). All you need is a new air line from the air bag fitting to the air valve under the seat.
 
.

Recently did this when the system leaked itself to death. Lots of connections to leak. Just connected to bag to the Schrader valve under the seat and all is good Holds air for weeks. It's dirty/messy down there but only have to remove some left side tupperware , remove the dump valve ( the leaker ) and add a piece of 1/4" tube. I wound up doing it in 2 pieces with a quality and simple junction.

Good luck, Lew L

Edit: Joe Meyer helped walked me through it . Contact him through " Squared Away" on this site.
 
What about a full manual system with a pre-load adjustable spring. The whole airbag thing is just an annoyance to me. Anybody got specs or a part number for a spring? Might even be worth changing to a better rear shock at the same time.
 
I have 2012 RT Limited

Compressor died due to an air leak somewhere in the system and it kept running.

I would like to change over to manual system after we find the leak.

No compressor just direct connection air bag to the Schroeder valve is what I want, just complete manual system

Anyone done this and is there a thread I can follow on how to do and what needs to be changed on the Spyder?

Thanks


Larry

First thing I would do is make sure that the bag it self isn't the problem! Pump it up threw the shrader and put the soapy water to it and check it for leaks, then, like said above just put a hose from the bag to the valve and be done with the piece of crap! One of these days BRP will come up with a better mouse trap!! Good luck!! If the bag is leaking, then go to Elka, or M2 and get yourself a nice shock!!
 
My 2016 F3T has the manual air system. It doesn't hold air for even an hour now. I called yesterday and made an appointment to have it checked, before the warranty goes off.
 
One downside to manual filling is you have to have an air gun that will let you control the air flow to very low rates. The air bag is small and it doesn't take much of a squirt of air to be overinflated.
 
One downside to manual filling is you have to have an air gun that will let you control the air flow to very low rates. The air bag is small and it doesn't take much of a squirt of air to be overinflated.

Yes, you must be careful. I have a small compressor that I can set for a certain PSI and it will stop running at that point. Works great. I like my manual system for the simplicity of it. You couldn't run fast enough to give me the over complicated automatic system.
 
Les uses a bicycle hand pump. Perfect for the job. A few strokes, and it’s right on! On the road we use an aerostich compressor.
 
Larry, easy to do:
Remove Tupperware. Follow the Schrader valve to a line. Disconnect it. Follow to next component. Disconnect it. When you get to the airbag, stop. Use Teflon tape, and connect the lines to each other so you have a Schrader valve on one end, and the airbag on the other. There will be a couple of connections. Put air in the bag. 45# will do. Put a capful of dish soap in a spray bottle, add warm water, shake. Spray all over bag and connections and lines. Leaks make bubbles. Meanwhile, measure from the tip of the rear fender to the ground. Write that down. If you find no leaks, replace Tupperware. When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe
 
Larry, easy to do:
Remove Tupperware. Follow the Schrader valve to a line. Disconnect it. Follow to next component. Disconnect it. When you get to the airbag, stop. Use Teflon tape, and connect the lines to each other so you have a Schrader valve on one end, and the airbag on the other. There will be a couple of connections. Put air in the bag. 45# will do. Put a capful of dish soap in a spray bottle, add warm water, shake. Spray all over bag and connections and lines. Leaks make bubbles. Meanwhile, measure from the tip of the rear fender to the ground. Write that down. If you find no leaks, replace Tupperware. When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe

I usually fill ours to 70/75 lbs and it lasts "a long long time" (weeks, maybe months) without needing a refill. :yes:
I'm curious about what others say needs to be done here.:dontknow: As I recall (?)......all I did when my 2nd compressor failed and I gave up on BRP and my extended warranty "fixing" it, was to get to the compressor and unplug the power to it. I did nothing else. From then on I use the shrader valve to fill as noted above. Just my input.:ohyea:
 
... When you do your weekly tire pressure check, measure the fender to ground. If it is down more than an inch, add air. I manage to lose a lot of air with my tire pressure gauge; the ruler is easier! My number is below. Call me if you need help. Joe

My RT's rear suspension is at full extension over a wide range of pressures when unloaded. I can put my palms on the rear bags and give it a quick push down and it will return to the full-up position quickly. When this return response gets sluggish, it's time to check the air. It has to be well below 35psi to not top out the shock. Measuring the fender height would not work for me since it's the same (full height) at anything above 30psi or so. Mebbe it's just my RT...
 
My RT's rear suspension is at full extension over a wide range of pressures when unloaded. I can put my palms on the rear bags and give it a quick push down and it will return to the full-up position quickly. When this return response gets sluggish, it's time to check the air. It has to be well below 35psi to not top out the shock. Measuring the fender height would not work for me since it's the same (full height) at anything above 30psi or so. Mebbe it's just my RT...

Hmmmm......given that we always ride 2 up (at or "close to" the Spyder spec limit for weight):yikes::roflblack: any pressure less than 70 produces a "mushy" feeling - and sometimes a bottoming out event over some bumps:gaah::gaah: 70 doesn't create a problem for us at all. :yes::yes:

PS: I too use a marked stick of wood and check the elevation of the rear of the Spyder to the bottom of my mudflap. 7" works for us.:yes:
 
Hmmmmmmm.....what shock would that be for our 2014RTL riding 2 up as noted in my other posts ?

M2 shock. Been using it for couple seasons now.

Still have the compressor on and bag and I drained all the air and compressor never turns on.

Bike never bottoms out even riding two up.

Just have to get the correct setup for your application.
 
Back
Top