PW2013STL
Active member
Spent the weekend doing the 28,000 mile service on my 2020 RT. What I did was change the oil and both motor and transmission filters, the gas filter, Sparkplugs, and the brake pads
Once I got it lifted to make it easier to work on. I placed jack stands under each A-arm and wood blocks under the rear wheel to make it even. I removed all side panels. The lower panels com off in one piece. I remove the floor boards on both sides and the brake lever as that also have to come off. Once those and the top three panels are removed there is one bolt, 10mm head, (under the front of the saddle bags), and a T30 screw on the top of the panel. The rest are pop rivets (one on each side close to the A-arm is the type that looks like a screw head) the panel can then be lifted from the front and out to remove.
Once all the panels were removed I started draining the oil. Once drained I removed the oil filter and the trans filter, replaced both, put the drain plugs back in and filled with T6 oil.
Next was the gas filter which is located on the right side just above and rearward of the parking brake wheel. Interesting in that the OEM filter was a Wix 33095 filter (printed on the filter).
I then went to the brake pads as I was more concerned about the wear. Turns out only one pad was paper thin and that was the inside pad on the right front wheel. Changed the all anyways.
Waited the next day to do the sparkplugs as I know from past Spyders what a pain it is to do.
I removed both headlights and then the computer boxes on both sides as that gave me access to remove the alum bar that the bottom of the air box clamps to. I then remove the air cleaner filter and the ring clamp inside the back of the airbox that locks in the flexible air tube. I cut the plastic zip tie that connects the two flexible air tubes together, and removed the two screws (one on each side) that hold the top of the air box down.
To remove the left side air box I had to remove three black bolts (10mm heads) that hold the top plastic frame on and lift as I pulled the airbox clear. For the right airbox I removed it from the throttle body, but was unable to pull it out. I found that I could push it into the headlight cavity to get the clearance needed to RR the right sparkplug.
Once started it took me 4 hours the do the sparkplugs and put everything back together. The hardest part was reattaching the flexible air tube to the clamp ring inside the airbox as it's hard to turn the ring and you have to do it by feel.
Once I got it lifted to make it easier to work on. I placed jack stands under each A-arm and wood blocks under the rear wheel to make it even. I removed all side panels. The lower panels com off in one piece. I remove the floor boards on both sides and the brake lever as that also have to come off. Once those and the top three panels are removed there is one bolt, 10mm head, (under the front of the saddle bags), and a T30 screw on the top of the panel. The rest are pop rivets (one on each side close to the A-arm is the type that looks like a screw head) the panel can then be lifted from the front and out to remove.
Once all the panels were removed I started draining the oil. Once drained I removed the oil filter and the trans filter, replaced both, put the drain plugs back in and filled with T6 oil.
Next was the gas filter which is located on the right side just above and rearward of the parking brake wheel. Interesting in that the OEM filter was a Wix 33095 filter (printed on the filter).
I then went to the brake pads as I was more concerned about the wear. Turns out only one pad was paper thin and that was the inside pad on the right front wheel. Changed the all anyways.
Waited the next day to do the sparkplugs as I know from past Spyders what a pain it is to do.
I removed both headlights and then the computer boxes on both sides as that gave me access to remove the alum bar that the bottom of the air box clamps to. I then remove the air cleaner filter and the ring clamp inside the back of the airbox that locks in the flexible air tube. I cut the plastic zip tie that connects the two flexible air tubes together, and removed the two screws (one on each side) that hold the top of the air box down.
To remove the left side air box I had to remove three black bolts (10mm heads) that hold the top plastic frame on and lift as I pulled the airbox clear. For the right airbox I removed it from the throttle body, but was unable to pull it out. I found that I could push it into the headlight cavity to get the clearance needed to RR the right sparkplug.
Once started it took me 4 hours the do the sparkplugs and put everything back together. The hardest part was reattaching the flexible air tube to the clamp ring inside the airbox as it's hard to turn the ring and you have to do it by feel.
hyea:
