28k miles service

[PatrickH]

Thanks. Good to know. Question: can I just lay on the garage floor beneath the left saddlebag, look up and see this pre-canister thingy above me (to see whether it's serviceable or whether I have to buy a replacement for it)? Or do I have to take off saddlebag or some other tupperware first? Patrick H

 

[JayBros]

You do not have to take off the left saddlebag; the pre-filter us just forward of the bag. You cannot see the condition of the pre-filter without disassembling it for inspection. FWIW, I tried to focus a mirror on it and could not see it. Of course I didn't lift the bike, but for me, despite my advanced age I am still very agile but I would prefer to remove the Tupperware. I don't want to work in a confined space and laying on my back to remove the filter. If you want to remove panels, you must remove the mirror, side panel and rear side panel. That's five minutes of work if you've done it before, ten if it's the first time. If you're planning on doing all or the major portion of a 28K service you're going to have to remove those three panels on the right side to replace the fuel filter. The most intimidating task if you've never done it before is removing a mirror. Watch this link, https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw&feature=youtu.behttp://, and starting at about 11:00 you will see the correct method of removing a mirror.

 

[trikermutha]

Its easier to jack up the bike a bit to give your the height to remove and service the canister. You dont need to remove tupper ware but you can if you like.

Its behind the left saddle bag mounted to the rear frame.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have a 2015 RTL with 27k miles. According to the manual there is a 28k miles service. The dealer quoted $2k to do the full service and $1k to do the HCM oil filter, canister pre filter, fuel filter, air filter and coolant. He said the front clip will have to be removed to do the coolant. His quote
"Gone are the days of removing an 8mm hex head and draining the coolant at at the water pump, there is nothing easy on these spyders." And don't suggest I do it myself; too old to do that kind of work now.
What have you guys done and how much do you think is necessary?
Thanks for your input.

The biggest pain is changing the spark plugs. After I pulled mine out they looked like I could have left them in for another 28,000 miles. I'd be inclined to skip that part of the 28,000 list. For my experience see this thread: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?115352-RT-1330-Spark-plug-changeout-Part-1

 

[cyclerambler]

Please forgive a dumb question...I just purchased a 2014 with 27.2k on the odo...it had an oil change and new tires put on at 26.6k. I'm going to do the 28k service myself...will I have to drain the oil to replace the HCM filter (why change fresh oil if I dont have to)?
tnx
Tom

 

[JayBros]

When you remove the HCM filter you are going to get some oil, I have no idea how much, draining out. The simplest method, IMO, would be to put a pan under that part of the Spyder and measure how much comes out and just replace that amount. You have to remember though that the longer the engine full of oil is not running the more oil flows out of the dry sump tank. For that reason it might be wise to drain the oil. When I did my last HCM filter at 56K I had drained the oil, from both the crankcase and clutch cover and I just placed a rag under the HCM filter before I removed it and there was so little oil on the rag it wasn't even a messy clean up; used the same rag to wipe down the gasket surface before installing the new HCM filter.

 

[cyclerambler]

Ok...when you said drained from the crankcase does that include the transmission? (2 ports)

 

[BajaRon]

You don't need to change the oil to swap out the HCM filter. You will get very little oil loss from the change. Ride for at least 5 miles after the swap and check your oil level. It might not be enough difference to bother adding anything.

 

[JayBros]

Ok...when you said drained from the crankcase does that include the transmission? (2 ports)

There are two drain plugs on the 1330 ACE engine with SE6 transmission; the crankcase plug that takes a T45 Torx bit and the clutch cover, aka transmission, plug that takes a 6mm Allen.

While he talks a heck of a lot, Sean Smoak has a good video on doing a 1330 oil change.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw

 

[cyclerambler]

+1 on the pan idea...just in case

 

[cyclerambler]

Ok...bad news...hoping someone can point me in the right direction on this.....

Got the oil changed and HCM filter changed...got it all back together...starts up...good deal..........no throttle response...twist and nothing.

Any ideas?

 

[Peter Aawen]

Ok...bad news...hoping someone can point me in the right direction on this.....

Got the oil changed and HCM filter changed...got it all back together...starts up...good deal..........no throttle response...twist and nothing.

Any ideas?

No throttle response, as in, engine revs but Spyder won't move?? Or won't the engine rev at all?!? :dontknow:

It might be a long shot, but did you put the HCM the right way around?? :dontknow: They can go in backwards, and if that's the case, the engine runs but the trans won't engage....

 

[cyclerambler]

No throttle response, as in, engine revs but Spyder won't move?? Or won't the engine rev at all?!? :dontknow:

It might be a long shot, but did you put the HCM the right way around?? :dontknow: They can go in backwards, and if that's the case, the engine runs but the trans won't engage....

Thanks Peter...the engine will not rev...regarding the HCM...I just replaced the filter...I think that goes on just one way...
It doesnt seem to be giving any failure/code info....

If the throttle was cable driven I'd swear the cable broke...thats what it feels like.

Started new thread on this one........