BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I have a 2014 RT and swapped out the OEM FRONT speakers to JBL 2 Ohm ... 5.25 ( the same size as the OEM's ). ..... Mike :thumbup:
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Starting a New Audio Project - 2018 RTL
- Thread starter mkess
- Start date
I have a 2014 RT and swapped out the OEM FRONT speakers to JBL 2 Ohm ... 5.25 ( the same size as the OEM's ). ..... Mike :thumbup:
Here is a JBL that has the lowest response of the JBLs at 55Hz. JBL Stadium 52F. I am curious if they will fit in her 2018. I will have to think thru how to figure that out. I would definitely like 5.25's in the front. What model are yours?
I am trying to track down this DSP - ADDSP46. They are currently out of stock - prolly due to the chip shortage. But it's the one I have decided to go with. I am happy with the bass blockers on the tweeters up front and don't have any plans to revisit for now. This DSP would allow for the 4 main speakers to be managed. However, while the DSP is out-of-stock, I will continue to solve for my solution as I outlined previous and if it is good enough, I may stop. But already, I continue to have the weird urge to keep raising the bar on what the definition of done is.
One thing I don't understand is that some people are using 2ohm speakers but my stock speakers are 4ohm (3.6 to be precise). What is the theory of the effect of replacing 4 w/ 2? I know people have done it and report no issues, but I want to know what the theory of the concern is.
Joel The Biker
Member
I completed my upgrade on my 2021 RT. Rockford Fosgate 400watt amp, custom harness, all plug-n-play. 1/4 volume is like being at a concert.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Here is a JBL that has the lowest response of the JBLs at 55Hz. JBL Stadium 52F. I am curious if they will fit in her 2018. I will have to think thru how to figure that out. I would definitely like 5.25's in the front. What model are yours?
I am trying to track down this DSP - ADDSP46. They are currently out of stock - prolly due to the chip shortage. But it's the one I have decided to go with. I am happy with the bass blockers on the tweeters up front and don't have any plans to revisit for now. This DSP would allow for the 4 main speakers to be managed. However, while the DSP is out-of-stock, I will continue to solve for my solution as I outlined previous and if it is good enough, I may stop. But already, I continue to have the weird urge to keep raising the bar on what the definition of done is.
One thing I don't understand is that some people are using 2ohm speakers but my stock speakers are 4ohm (3.6 to be precise). What is the theory of the effect of replacing 4 w/ 2? I know people have done it and report no issues, but I want to know what the theory of the concern is.
I have GTO 528's in front and 508c in the rear , both are 5.25 in. size .... they are now out of production ...... Ohm theory - if you have 18w at 4 ohm's, that will mean 36w @ 2 ohms effectively speaking. If the head unit is for an 8 ohm system I wouldn't have tried it. But the folks at JBL said from 4 to 2 wouldn't be an issue. Read what " Joel The Biker " achieved - it may be a miracle :clap: ..... MIke :thumbup:
SpyderPops played my stock 2018 next to a stock 2021 that was in the shop same time as ours. The 2021 blew ours away. It was way clearer and louder. I am going for more clarity and a little more volume. Rockford Fosgate is my brand of choice so I definitely dig your setup.
I had some Kicker 10PS5250 5-1/4" 2-way motorcycle speakers (2-ohm) and I tried them out today. They did great. Way more volume and very clear. I don't know if I can get them to fit the rear slots. I know they won't fit the front. I'll be doing some dremmell-ing on the enclosures and grinding on the metal speakers to get them to fit. Still have concerns on if my year model is 2-ohm stable. I will probably put a potentiometer on them, so I'll have the ability to reduce the watts on demand if issues arise.
I'm back at it
After I nailed the sound I wanted in my tests, I put down the audio project for another project. Seemed like a good stopping point to pick right up at later. So I packed it all away until now as I am back at it. I got the front tweeter speakers with the bass filters installed. I have relocated the 2, small, single speaker amps to the front and they are mounted under the speaker housings on each side. They are mapped to the front mid-woofers - 1 each. They will be hidden by the plastic moldings when I reassemble the shell of the bike. The rear speakers are sitting on my work bench, but even with out them, the bike is incredibly loud and clear with just the front 4 speakers. For one of the rears, I finished the dremmell hole and grinded the stickout corner of one of the Kicker 10PS5250 5-1/4" to get it in the rear housing and it fits perfect. I am done for the week as I am headed out of town tomorrow.
Next milestones are to finish the rear mounting of the speakers, run the wiring for the fullsize amp, then add the powered subwoofer. My wife is insisting on the frunk holding the main amp (rear speakers) and the amp/subwoofer (uses the pass-passthrough signal from the main amp.) I still have a lot of electrical to do. More to come.
After I nailed the sound I wanted in my tests, I put down the audio project for another project. Seemed like a good stopping point to pick right up at later. So I packed it all away until now as I am back at it. I got the front tweeter speakers with the bass filters installed. I have relocated the 2, small, single speaker amps to the front and they are mounted under the speaker housings on each side. They are mapped to the front mid-woofers - 1 each. They will be hidden by the plastic moldings when I reassemble the shell of the bike. The rear speakers are sitting on my work bench, but even with out them, the bike is incredibly loud and clear with just the front 4 speakers. For one of the rears, I finished the dremmell hole and grinded the stickout corner of one of the Kicker 10PS5250 5-1/4" to get it in the rear housing and it fits perfect. I am done for the week as I am headed out of town tomorrow.
Next milestones are to finish the rear mounting of the speakers, run the wiring for the fullsize amp, then add the powered subwoofer. My wife is insisting on the frunk holding the main amp (rear speakers) and the amp/subwoofer (uses the pass-passthrough signal from the main amp.) I still have a lot of electrical to do. More to come.
rjinaz86323
Active member
I have been an audio buff since the 60's. Everything from a cheap stereo to multi thousand dollars speakers plus equally expensive electronics. But have never done anything on a scooter. When on anything but around town I always wear a full face helmet so all of my music is piped into the helmet. If only doing a local ride I wear a half helmet and really not interested in listening to music. While I applaud you guys tenacity to improve the sound on the Spyder, I am glad I haven't gone down that rabbit hole. LOL
canamjhb
Well-known member
You guys are talking about stuff that is WAY above my audio knowledge level. But, I will interject one thing learned some time ago when upgrading speakers on one of my bikes. The new and "better" speakers didn't produce desired results because of the limited size of the speaker box. I ended up removing some shroud blockage behind the speakers giving them a lot more air on the back side. They then began to preform like I wanted. (They were Polk Audio Marine speakers)..... Just my 2 cents..... Jim
Adding a amp to my 2015 can am spyder rt limited factory audio
Blueknight, I was wanting to add a amp to my bike. I've already upgrading my front/rear speakers with infinity 5.25 (rear) and hertz 6.5 (front). now my question is could you please provide me some information as to how you went about connecting your amp to your audio and still able to control your music volume, etc through the handlebar control system. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Blueknight, I was wanting to add a amp to my bike. I've already upgrading my front/rear speakers with infinity 5.25 (rear) and hertz 6.5 (front). now my question is could you please provide me some information as to how you went about connecting your amp to your audio and still able to control your music volume, etc through the handlebar control system. Your help is greatly appreciated.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
You have a Spyder that has NEW instrument panel that has the Audio incorporated in it ..... So far the only person to solve the stereo issue has been " Joel The Biker " ..... It took Him awhile but He did it ...:clap::clap::clap: ..... Just a speaker swap will help but there are other issues ..... Mike :thumbup:
pps:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
After swapping out the OEM speakers and using 2 ohm JBL's @ 5.25 in. for all Four .... My sound got 200% better both quality & volume .... And all this with the OEM radio ...No AMP ..... this was only possible on Spydwers up to 2017 in 2018 CanAm went a different route with the integrated instrument pod ..... Mike :thumbup:
UPDATE - I have gotten both 5.25" speakers in the rear pods finally. I did what most do. I dremmel'd the hole to be bigger and used a bench grinder to grind down the one corner that stuck out. I am moving on to wiring the fullsize amp in the frunk and route the wires to the rear speakers.
But first, I am headed to Darlington for the race this weekend. But I do have to get this done by October for a motorcycle trip we have, so I hope to have everything (with or with out the sub) and it be stable. I'll tackle the sub after in a separate project if I can't deliver before October.
Done.
Results: Sounds Incredible. Full range of sound. Incredibly clear (compared to stock). Bass guitars sound incredible.
Issues: Heat can build up in the Frunk. - would love to receive ideas on mitigation strategy.
Total Build Cost: around a 1,000 bucks. This doesn't include the SMD tool which I will keep for other audio project now that I am on a path to becoming an audiophile. Nor does it include various test speakers purchases which I will redeploy on other projects or just sell off.
Final Config:
Kept the stock Front Tweeters
- I installed 600Hz bass blockers to clean up the sound. - Crutchfield Bass Blockers
Kept the stock Front Mids
- Installed 2 (1 per speaker) Rockford-Fosgate-PM100X1 and used these setting:
- Set the pass filter 100Hz (available settings are 60,80,100Hz)
- Set the ohms to 4 (available settings are 2 or 4 ohms). I measured all stock speakers to be around 3.6 ohms.
Changed out the rear speakers to these Kicker 10PS5250 5-1/4" 2-way motorcycle speakers (2-ohm).
- Speakers are bigger and required modification of the rear mounts. I ordered a set from Ebay from a wrecked 2019 RTL. I did not want to modify our originals. Bonus – they came with additional stock speakers so I guess I have spares.
- These speaker are controlled by an amp in the frunk.
Amp for rear speakers - Rockford Fosgate PM300X2
- Converted rear speaker outs to rca and ran wires from back of bike to front.
- In the same fabric-taped homemade harness, I ran the speaker outs from the amp to the rear speakers.
- I tapped into the power wire of the USB port in the rear trunk for remote power wire for the amp. When the ignition is on, the USB charger has power. I use this wire to tell the amp to turn on since it is directly connected to the battery.
Amp-powered subwoofer added to the Frunk - Sound Ordnance B-8PTD
- Midway through the fabric-taped wire harness, I split off from the remote amp wire to a switch in the middle of the rocker switch panel. I inserted back into wire harness headed to the front. This wire controls the amp on the subwoofer. Now I can turn it on or off at will, but on only when ignition is on.
- I also added a remote dial in the center storage compartment and injected that wire into the harness going to the frunk.
NOTES
- The big amp on the rear speakers is tuned way down. It is probably pushing 50 Watt RMS max to each of the 2 rear speakers – even though the amp is rated for 150 watts per channel. The overkill on the amp is to get the expanded tunning controls that don’t come on a smaller amp.
- The stock speaker-outs from the radio are so low that both the big amp to the rear speakers and the powered subwoofer required the connection be wired to the rca low-level inputs instead of the high-level inputs. This should tell you something.
- I used a D'Amore SMD DD-1+ to determine where distortion starts in the radio. Conveniently, you can set the volume on the radio at 12 o’clock on the main volume screen/home volume screen. I don’t know what position that is on the sub-menu volume screen but it equates to like 1:30 or 2 or something. My wife is instructed not to go higher.
- Tuning the big amp for the amp built into the subwoofer are both tuned way down. the gain is nominal and the bass boost on both is set to 0. My goal was loud and clear, not loud as hell and shake the bike. The result has exceeded my expectations.
Other parts list:
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XDCLR2S/JL-Audio-XD-CLRAIC2-SW.html
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142EXTAPEB/Scosche-EXTAPE.html
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142R12/EFX-Marine-RCA-Patch-Cables-12-foot.html
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142R15/EFX-Marine-RCA-Patch-Cables-1-5-foot.html?tp=1694
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8BX/EFX-PA8BX-Wiring-Kit.html
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK10/Crutchfield-CK10.html
I'll gather up some pictures and create a fresh post with this content at a later date. Cheers!
Results: Sounds Incredible. Full range of sound. Incredibly clear (compared to stock). Bass guitars sound incredible.
Issues: Heat can build up in the Frunk. - would love to receive ideas on mitigation strategy.
Total Build Cost: around a 1,000 bucks. This doesn't include the SMD tool which I will keep for other audio project now that I am on a path to becoming an audiophile. Nor does it include various test speakers purchases which I will redeploy on other projects or just sell off.
Final Config:
Kept the stock Front Tweeters
- I installed 600Hz bass blockers to clean up the sound. - Crutchfield Bass Blockers
Kept the stock Front Mids
- Installed 2 (1 per speaker) Rockford-Fosgate-PM100X1 and used these setting:
- Set the pass filter 100Hz (available settings are 60,80,100Hz)
- Set the ohms to 4 (available settings are 2 or 4 ohms). I measured all stock speakers to be around 3.6 ohms.
Changed out the rear speakers to these Kicker 10PS5250 5-1/4" 2-way motorcycle speakers (2-ohm).
- Speakers are bigger and required modification of the rear mounts. I ordered a set from Ebay from a wrecked 2019 RTL. I did not want to modify our originals. Bonus – they came with additional stock speakers so I guess I have spares.
- These speaker are controlled by an amp in the frunk.
Amp for rear speakers - Rockford Fosgate PM300X2
- Converted rear speaker outs to rca and ran wires from back of bike to front.
- In the same fabric-taped homemade harness, I ran the speaker outs from the amp to the rear speakers.
- I tapped into the power wire of the USB port in the rear trunk for remote power wire for the amp. When the ignition is on, the USB charger has power. I use this wire to tell the amp to turn on since it is directly connected to the battery.
Amp-powered subwoofer added to the Frunk - Sound Ordnance B-8PTD
- Midway through the fabric-taped wire harness, I split off from the remote amp wire to a switch in the middle of the rocker switch panel. I inserted back into wire harness headed to the front. This wire controls the amp on the subwoofer. Now I can turn it on or off at will, but on only when ignition is on.
- I also added a remote dial in the center storage compartment and injected that wire into the harness going to the frunk.
NOTES
- The big amp on the rear speakers is tuned way down. It is probably pushing 50 Watt RMS max to each of the 2 rear speakers – even though the amp is rated for 150 watts per channel. The overkill on the amp is to get the expanded tunning controls that don’t come on a smaller amp.
- The stock speaker-outs from the radio are so low that both the big amp to the rear speakers and the powered subwoofer required the connection be wired to the rca low-level inputs instead of the high-level inputs. This should tell you something.
- I used a D'Amore SMD DD-1+ to determine where distortion starts in the radio. Conveniently, you can set the volume on the radio at 12 o’clock on the main volume screen/home volume screen. I don’t know what position that is on the sub-menu volume screen but it equates to like 1:30 or 2 or something. My wife is instructed not to go higher.
- Tuning the big amp for the amp built into the subwoofer are both tuned way down. the gain is nominal and the bass boost on both is set to 0. My goal was loud and clear, not loud as hell and shake the bike. The result has exceeded my expectations.
Other parts list:
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XDCLR2S/JL-Audio-XD-CLRAIC2-SW.html
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142EXTAPEB/Scosche-EXTAPE.html
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142R12/EFX-Marine-RCA-Patch-Cables-12-foot.html
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142R15/EFX-Marine-RCA-Patch-Cables-1-5-foot.html?tp=1694
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8BX/EFX-PA8BX-Wiring-Kit.html
- https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK10/Crutchfield-CK10.html
I'll gather up some pictures and create a fresh post with this content at a later date. Cheers!
DONE (in pics)
Visible through the air venting grill once the body plastic is installed. Marine grade so I would rather have it where it gets air and can also see the power on/off light.
This is just a hasty, functional install of wires. I got it operational for the upcoming trip to TOTD, but I have already ordered new wires that are long enough for me to hide them where the come up from the bottom behind and/or beside the amps.
Center button turns on/off the powered subwoofer. I doubt my wife will ever turn it off except to show someone the difference it makes.
Subwoofer AMP potentiometer - Dial up or down the bass. My wife already says she'll probably always keep it at 11.
The battery and charging system handle everything with no problem. She can idle with all her lights on, the stereo at full, do several engine starts, and when I put it on the charger, it goes to green in less than a minute. I observed some issues with heat build up in the frunk on one occasion, but by adjusting the fader on the radio to one notch off-of-center toward the front speakers, the drive was reduced just enough to bring the amp temp down tremendously. I can tell there is less sound from the rear speakers but my wife cannot.
I would like to thank all the posters on here that gave me bits and pieces of my own puzzle - how to modify the rear speaker pods, that it is ok to use 2-ohm speakers (which I made even safer by having a high-quality amp in front of them), some speaker models to try (and not bother trying), and more. Cheers!
Visible through the air venting grill once the body plastic is installed. Marine grade so I would rather have it where it gets air and can also see the power on/off light.
This is just a hasty, functional install of wires. I got it operational for the upcoming trip to TOTD, but I have already ordered new wires that are long enough for me to hide them where the come up from the bottom behind and/or beside the amps.
Center button turns on/off the powered subwoofer. I doubt my wife will ever turn it off except to show someone the difference it makes.
Subwoofer AMP potentiometer - Dial up or down the bass. My wife already says she'll probably always keep it at 11.
The battery and charging system handle everything with no problem. She can idle with all her lights on, the stereo at full, do several engine starts, and when I put it on the charger, it goes to green in less than a minute. I observed some issues with heat build up in the frunk on one occasion, but by adjusting the fader on the radio to one notch off-of-center toward the front speakers, the drive was reduced just enough to bring the amp temp down tremendously. I can tell there is less sound from the rear speakers but my wife cannot.
I would like to thank all the posters on here that gave me bits and pieces of my own puzzle - how to modify the rear speaker pods, that it is ok to use 2-ohm speakers (which I made even safer by having a high-quality amp in front of them), some speaker models to try (and not bother trying), and more. Cheers!
K80Shooter
New member
I agree, I couldn't give up the frunk space unless I towed a trailer.
acdcking12
Member
I would pay you money to do this with my 18 F3L
Bluesman280
New member
Great write up mkess.
Good to see someone else going the distance on their audio system. Adding an amp is definitely a game changer on the sound quality and volume. I run 3 amps on my Harley.
Good to hear the charging system holds up fine. I didn't have many doubts, but you don't know until you try.
I'll be starting on my wife's 2016 RTS hopefully this week.
I've done lots of Harley upgrades, but this will be the first Spyder
It Sounds like you went the same route I was planning. Just went off the speaker leads to a Line level converter to RCAs into an amp, and off to the speakers.
The amp I'll be using is the Stinger SPX 700 4 channel amp. It's a motorsports amp that works great on bikes. I've used them with great success on Harleys.
I have Polk 5.25" MM1 speakers for both front and rear speakers that I can try out. Not sure if there is enough room but im hoping I can find a way to install a set of 6.5" Mmats coax sor Hertz SX165 SPL peakers in the front fairing using a 5.25" to 6.5" speaker adapter.
Good to see you used the SMD DD1 to set up your gains. Great tool to have. I have one here as well.
I see you were considering using a DSP. The new Ground Zero HKI mini is popular on Harleys. I've also used the Dayton 408, but it can cause some engine noise using RCAs, so most guys wire it in with high level inputs, which may not work if we have to use A Line level to RCAs.
Wish me luck on my adventure, lol
Rock on, and play it LOUD!
Good to see someone else going the distance on their audio system. Adding an amp is definitely a game changer on the sound quality and volume. I run 3 amps on my Harley.
Good to hear the charging system holds up fine. I didn't have many doubts, but you don't know until you try.
I'll be starting on my wife's 2016 RTS hopefully this week.
I've done lots of Harley upgrades, but this will be the first Spyder
It Sounds like you went the same route I was planning. Just went off the speaker leads to a Line level converter to RCAs into an amp, and off to the speakers.
The amp I'll be using is the Stinger SPX 700 4 channel amp. It's a motorsports amp that works great on bikes. I've used them with great success on Harleys.
I have Polk 5.25" MM1 speakers for both front and rear speakers that I can try out. Not sure if there is enough room but im hoping I can find a way to install a set of 6.5" Mmats coax sor Hertz SX165 SPL peakers in the front fairing using a 5.25" to 6.5" speaker adapter.
Good to see you used the SMD DD1 to set up your gains. Great tool to have. I have one here as well.
I see you were considering using a DSP. The new Ground Zero HKI mini is popular on Harleys. I've also used the Dayton 408, but it can cause some engine noise using RCAs, so most guys wire it in with high level inputs, which may not work if we have to use A Line level to RCAs.
Wish me luck on my adventure, lol
Rock on, and play it LOUD!
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