Suspension compressor leaking again

[jwmorrow]

32000 miles on a 2015 RT Limited. Replaced the suspension compressor August of 2019. Solo I hear it run sometimes. Two up it runs A LOT. Heard at most stop signs. Almost certain the leak is not in the suspension air bag. Sitting over night bike does not sink down any from previous measurement. Currently at the dealer, looking for the leak. My question for you experts, have very many guys by-passed the compressor all together or bite the bullet and replace it again?
If I remember correctly the difference between the RT and the RT Limited is Chrome, GPS, and the automatic leveling system. Correct?

 

[safecracker]

After second compressor. I have bypassed the compressor. If you keep a compressor I would check the check valve. I believe that is the weakest part of the system. It gets gummed up.

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

32000 miles on a 2015 RT Limited. Replaced the suspension compressor August of 2019. Solo I hear it run sometimes. Two up it runs A LOT. Heard at most stop signs. Almost certain the leak is not in the suspension air bag. Sitting over night bike does not sink down any from previous measurement. Currently at the dealer, looking for the leak. My question for you experts, have very many guys by-passed the compressor all together or bite the bullet and replace it again?
If I remember correctly the difference between the RT and the RT Limited is Chrome, GPS, and the automatic leveling system. Correct?

If leaking it will go sown overnight, mine did. I had the compressor replaced and still kicks in at every stop when 2 up just as the old one did. It just doesnot leak down overnight now. I started listening and when you hit the brakes and the nose drops, it thinks the back is too high and instantly dumps air. let off of the brake and it airs up.
I think it is just way to sensitive and should have about a 10 second delay before it starts dumping air. That would stop the problem at every stop, and then the compressor would not run so mush and burn up either.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The " air ride system " has been problematic " since 2010 , for various reasons ..... not just the compressor itself but the connections in the tubing. .... I suggest going the MANUAL route ..... some here have had some success switching to a different ( after-market ) compressor ( Viair ? ) but it cost money and the dealer won't cover it ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[mrbios]

Spyder SE5 2012 w/ 15K miles blown rear shock oil leaked out & Air suspension bypass

32000 miles on a 2015 RT Limited.... many guys by-passed the compressor all together or bite the bullet and replace it again?

My friend's 2012 SE5 Spyder RT with 15K miles has two problems:

1. Rear shock blown and all the oil leaked out - bottom wet with oil.
2. Code on computer running in Manual Mode only.

My Game plan:
1. Remove and dissemble the shock / coil spring and replace the shock with the Can-Am OEM shock ~ $200 new.
2. Bypass the Air Compressor load leveling system but ... I would like a link to a guide or video for doing this.

Thanks

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

My friend's 2012 SE5 Spyder RT with 15K miles has two problems:

My Game plan:
1. Remove and dissemble the shock / coil spring and replace the shock with the Can-Am OEM shock ~ $200 new.
2. Bypass the Air Compressor load leveling system but ... I would like a link to a guide or video for doing this.

Thanks

Hey mrbios. Defeating the system is not too hard.

1 - If you have access to BUDS, just go to the configuration page and turn the system off - uncheck the box.
2 - If not, defeat the air compressor by removing relay R1 in the front fuse and relay box. Defeat the vent valve by unplugging it from the harness. The plug is a little hidden, most likely tie wrapped to a frame member behind the valve.

Now check for leaks. Just put about 50# in it and let it sit overnight. Check pressure in the morning. Keep in mind that it will lose 1 to 2 pounds each time you check it and another pound if ambient temperature cools quite a bit. If it holds pressure, you're good to go.

If not, first make sure that the valve innards inside of the Schrader valve are tight. Otherwise, just re-plumb the system and run tubing from the air bag straight to the Schrader valve under the seat. Bypasses everything else. Run a leak test again. If it still leaks, then at least you have it narrowed down to the air bag and just two fittings. Make sure the tubing that you may buy will handle the pressure and temperature in the area.

The position sensor for the system is on the left hand side. You'll want to disconnect that linkage arm before you remove any bolts on the shock. If not, the sensor will probably break from the weight of the swing arm hanging by the sensor. Plus it allows the swing arm to drop further. Even though you are defeating the air system, you probably didn't want to break the sensor.

If your friend's machine needs a rear tire, now is the time to do that work, too. Plus, with the wheel removed, you'll have a lot better access to everything. Using a new OEM shock is just fine. Be safe. Good luck.