Rear Trunk Gas Shock

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Well mine has finally lost some of it's pressure ( 2014 RT ), and won't keep the lid up. ..... Yes I could replace it with a new one ..... but I'm frugal ( ie. Cheap :roflblack .... so I made a solid strut from a 3/16th dia. piece of scrap metal rod. ... it's 7 1/4in. long (to be safe use 8in. you can trim if necessary ).... at 1/4in. made a 90* bend .... and made a 3/16 hole on the right side ( as you face the opening ) just below the curve of the interior trunk lip ... this is so the rod will be flush to the side of the lip when closed .... I made a slight bend 1 1/4in. from the bottom end to match the contour .... pressed the 90* bent end into the hole. .... I now can easily put the rod up into the slot where the rubber gasket is, and that rubber keeps the end from slipping.... took about 15 min. from figuring it out, to being able to use it..... money saved $25 to $40 .... and about one hour ( + ) labor...... and I left the OEM one in place. .... good luck .... PS, measure the dia. of the rod you use and then select a drill bit one smaller, this is so it will be a tight fit .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[spyder01]

Heres another way to fix trunk and or seat struts

www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?124844-Parts-list-for-Gas-Struts

 

[2dogs]

I broke open the piggy bank and went with the second strut. The second strut for the RT trunk lid and the magic mirrors, are about the only mods I can think of where you don't have to get down on your knees unless you drop something. It's sooooo worth it to have that trunk lid stay up on its own now.

 

[trikermutha]

Didn't someone use a spring assist on there stock strut awhile back? Cant remember his name off hand.

 

[PMK]

Another option

 

[2dogs]

Didn't someone use a spring assist on there stock strut awhile back? Cant remember his name off hand.

"Finless" posted the spring assist long ago. I tied it for a while but I had to remove it and stretch it back out a couple of times to keep it functioning. Otherwise, it was only good for a few months. I supposed I could've used a spring with thicker coils but then you run up against a space issue. You'd have to cut and reassemble and cut and reassemble to get it just right. The second strut is the solution.

 

[2dogs]

Another option

Is that an air fitting or a zerk fitting?

 

[PMK]

Is that an air fitting or a zerk fitting?

Shrader valve to recharge the nitrogen that raises the trunk lid / extends the rod.

Our Gasspring has yet to leak any fluid, so the seals remain fine. Gassprings are known to loose gas pressure over time, regardless of the application. My wife was no longer amused having the trunk lid falling and hitting her hands or head if looking inside.

I have since gone to a more viscous fluid to let the trunk lid raise slower without slamming open at the up position. With easy access to high pressure nitrogen, it takes about 1000 psi to recharge the Gasspring.

Wanted to add that even with a stock gas strut, the plastic support angle is under considerable stress with the trunk lid closed. This was causing bending of the plastic where the lower gas spring mount is on the trunk housing, behind the backrest.

Very simple fix, I took a section of high strength heat treated aircraft aluminum extrusion and fabricated a reenforcement doubler angle. Utilized the ball stud mount to attach it. This eliminated the bending stresses into the soft plastic.

I did get a photo, but apparently not on this IPad. If found, I will post the photo. Very simple mod, the angle matches the plastic molded angle and secures to the opposite side of the ball.

 

[2dogs]

How often do you have to refill the strut? I used large fender washers to support the plastic mounting points.

 

[PMK]

As needed but was about a year or so.

 

[Steve W.]

Our trunk lid just barely stays up. The only added weight is the Big Bike Parts tail/brake/turn light at the top. I don't mind a bit of experimentation, but prefer to do things in an organized progression. I think it would make more sense to replace the stock strut first. If that helps, but still isn't enough, THEN add the second one. In fact, I would probably just get the hardware and add the existing strut.

.

 

[Joel The Biker]

If you really want the easiest, quickest and cheapest way to keep the trunk lid open, simply put a 1/4" bolt(bolt only, no nut) thru the hole where you would put the second strut. A bolt of the proper length becomes a captured bolt when the lid is closed. When I open the lid, I simply slide the bolt over and my lid stays open!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If you really want the easiest, quickest and cheapest way to keep the trunk lid open, simply put a 1/4" bolt(bolt only, no nut) thru the hole where you would put the second strut. A bolt of the proper length becomes a captured bolt when the lid is closed. When I open the lid, I simply slide the bolt over and my lid stays open!
View attachment 186922

:clap::clap: ..........Kudo's to you Joel. I didn't think to even look at the other side bracket:banghead: ...... A 1/4 in. bolt fits perfectly ...... I tried a 4 in long one and it that will contact both sides for better support ..... I do suggest tying ( and glueing ) a strong piece of string ( like fishing line ) to the bolt and then making a small hole and tying the line to the curved bracket .... then you won't lose the bolt .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Joel The Biker]

I wont lose the bolt. I push it in and it stays in the trunk arm. It cant fall out when the trunk is closed.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I wont lose the bolt. I push it in and it stays in the trunk arm. It cant fall out when the trunk is closed.

:agree: .... however if it wanders into the HINGE Hole, good luck ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Saluda]

Had that issue a while ago, do have the interior mirror and outside rack. Went with the 2nd shock (strut).