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2013 ST won’t crank

james199

New member
Drove the st all day not one problem all day got home shut it off and that was the last time it’s run as now it won’t crank. It powers up but when I hit the start button all I hear is the fuel pump, no starter and I can’t get the bike into diagnostic mode. Could it be the computer.
I have checked every fuse and relay I even swapped the relays with my other bike and still nothing.

Any ideas
 
Is it an SE or an SM? If it's an SE, could it just be that you aren't pressing hard enough on the brake pedal when you try the starter?? No brake, no start, especially if you shut it down while it was still in gear; and the brake micro switches can get a little sticky & dirty. :dontknow:
 
:agree: Step on brake , check battery connections :thumbup little odd however the pump starts with key not start switch. :dontknow:Least on mine
 
The battery is new and I have checked every fuse and relay. All I get is fuel pump but no start, I did try and jump the start solenoid and it will run as long as the start button is mashed. The bike has manual transmission ( with clutch) it’s in neutral parking break in gaged, I mean I have drove this thing forever and now it’s dead. I just wish I could get a code or something but like I posted earlier the bike won’t go into diagnostic mode either so I’m kinda lost. If I buy the Buds will it check all sensors and such.
 
Just cos the battery is new, it doesn't necessarily mean it couldn't be the problem.... I reckon you'd be surprised at the number of problems we've seen here that have been fixed by replacing 'new & supposedly good' batteries! :shocked: So if you haven't already, and you can manage a multi-meter, check the battery's charge condition 'cold'; and then check it again while you're trying to start it! It might even pay to put the battery on a good charger for 8 hours or so anyway, at least by doing that you can confirm the battery has a good cover charge, but even then it may still fail to have sufficient charge when put under load, and if you can't get the starter to actually crank, you won't be able to test that with just a readily available & relatively cheap multi-meter!! :rolleyes:

That said, jumping the starter solenoid and getting it to run while the start button is mashed does sorta suggest that something else is going on in the wiring &/or circuitry. :dontknow: Maybe it IS time for a trip to a dealer, or better yet, a reputable & knowledgeable Spyder Tech.... ;)

Good Luck! :thumbup:
 
Just to rule out things,

Key on, run/stop switch in down position, foot on brake, press and release mode button, Verify green N is lit for trans in neutral, pull in clutch, press start. If you do ALL of those and it still does not start you will need BUDS to find out which of those switches is not working.
 
Just to rule out things,

Key on, run/stop switch in down position, foot on brake, press and release mode button, Verify green N is lit for trans in neutral, pull in clutch, press start. If you do ALL of those and it still does not start you will need BUDS to find out which of those switches is not working.

I have done all of those steps a 100000 times and even more since it’s hasn’t started. I have tried EVERYTHING to get it into Diagnostic mode to no avail. I am going to buy the buds I just hope it tells me something.
 
Elaborate on this statement.
What runs, the starter motor or the engine is firing?

What are the steps you are taking to enter diagnostic mode?
Bike will Not go into Diagnostic mode, the Only thing that runs is the fuel pump when the start button is in gagged.
 
If by diagnostic mode you mean the 3 button press to get the error codes, there is nothing to display unless the check engine light is on. If the light is not on, the ecm thinks everything is fine. Using BUDS you will need to test each of the start interlock switches to determine which one is not working correctly.
 
If by diagnostic mode you mean the 3 button press to get the error codes, there is nothing to display unless the check engine light is on. If the light is not on, the ecm thinks everything is fine. Using BUDS you will need to test each of the start interlock switches to determine which one is not working correctly.

I get no codes so I guess I’ll spend the cash and order buds. My local shop where I bought my bike is now permanently closed and when I bought my bike I paid for a extended warranty only to find out I don’t have said warranty or my money so I have to fix my own bike now. Today when I turned on the ignition & I didn’t have to press the mode button to start, my cluster just came on & the bike now just boots up ( the cluster comes on ) no matter how long the key is off and away from the bike.
 
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