trikermutha
New member
Well lets all say its a 36mm nut :thumbup: That's what the OP was asking anyway.
Nut side , axle side , whatever works for you is fine with me.
Nut side , axle side , whatever works for you is fine with me.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Rear tire removal
- Thread starter Hokiev
- Start date
h0gr1der
New member
I've done it both ways, and pulling on the nut side while pulling the wrench towards you will almost always result in the axle shifting and the belt running out of alignment. I now use a small ratchet strap on the right non drive side to pull the axle forward to keep the adjusters seated, the belt tension keeps the left drive side adjusters seated, and tighten the nut pushing up on the torque wrench. What a pain in the rear!
Yep, tightening forces in the rearward direction toward the belt adjusters, otherwise you'll change the belt alignment. With the rear wheel off the ground and the spyder secured, start it up and put it in first gear. With the wheel spinning while torqueing the axle you can watch the belt walk across the pulley. 166 lb. torque is way over reasonable. JMHO though.
PinkRosePetal
New member
Yep, I'm with you on that one. But my technique is slightly different, I nip up the axle tightening on the sprocket side, quite firm but not rigid tight. That little spanner tool I made, shown in the picture a few replies back, is on the silencer side and I give the end of it a couple of whacks with a hammer to ensure the axle and right adjuster is firmly seated forward then finally tighten the axle to spec. Works for me.
PinkRosePetal
New member
Agreed...
Peteoz
Well-known member
Yeah, 166 (+/- 10) meant the purchase of some extra gear, 2dogs. I had the gear for up to 100. Since i had to buy, I ended up buying 3/4” drive. Made the job very easy. Just call me Tim the Tool Man:thumbup: Like you, I do still wonder though why they felt the need to nearly double the torque over the pre 2014 models.
Pete
Pete
Yeah, 166 (+/- 10) meant the purchase of some extra gear, 2dogs. I had the gear for up to 100. Since i had to buy, I ended up buying 3/4” drive. Made the job very easy. Just call me Tim the Tool Man:thumbup: Like you, I do still wonder though why they felt the need to nearly double the torque over the pre 2014 models.
Pete
Yep, lug nuts are 70. As you know the rear axel is a tube, not a solid shaft. I don't read every post but to date I don't recall seeing any justification here for a 166 lb rear axle torque, other than that's what the specs call for. Why did BRP nearly double the torque specs? I don't want to name names here but you and I both know people who are running around with 80/90 lb torque settings.
Pete
Yep, lug nuts are 70. As you know the rear axel is a tube, not a solid shaft. I don't read every post but to date I don't recall seeing any justification here for a 166 lb rear axle torque, other than that's what the specs call for. Why did BRP nearly double the torque specs? I don't want to name names here but you and I both know people who are running around with 80/90 lb torque settings.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
If you use the extension I show in post #10, https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...tire-removal&p=1490248&viewfull=1#post1490248, you might be able to get the full 166 with your 100 lb-ft wrench. That extension is 6" long. Put that and your wrench length into the calculator on this page, https://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/calculator/torque_adapter_extension.htm and see how high a torque you can get with your current wrench.
Similar threads
