RT622 Wheel Bearings

[Air Force PAO]

Howdy, y'all,

I have limited time this Saturday to inspect my RT622 wheel bearings and replace them if necessary.

So...what size socket do I use to remove the wheels? If I need to replace the bearings, can I find them at Autozone?

Thanks in advance.

John

 

[trikermutha]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K1-150-2-0...10-L44649-10-Bearings-10-60-Seal/111709525286

Remove cup,remove cotter pin,pliers or crescent wrench will get the nut off.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Be sure to check both (front & Rear) sets of bearings on both wheels


Cruzr Joe

 

[PMK]

Be sure to check both (front & Rear) sets of bearings on both wheels


Cruzr Joe

Agree.

Be prepared to clean the axles also, not only of grease, but possible light corrosion. Use maroon Scotchbrite pad for that.

I cleaned and repacked our RT622 bearings recently. Installed Bearing Buddies. Some here are not fans of Bearing Buddies, but done correctly, they work well.

 

[Little Blue]

Bearings

Just a TIP, You should check all bearings. If you find a 'Bad Bearing/Race' replace everything for that wheel. I would recommend doing both wheels....:thumbup:

 

[PW2013STL]

Here you go.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?90853-Heads-Up-for-RT622-owners

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Just a TIP, You should check all bearings. If you find a 'Bad Bearing/Race' replace everything for that wheel. I would recommend doing both wheels....:thumbup:

Or just replace the entire hub, a fairly inexpensive item in the world of Spyders.

I would not count on Autozone having replacement bearings, you need a bearing supply store.

 

[Air Force PAO]

Thank you all. This is great information.

John

 

[trikermutha]

The hub is around 80 bucks if my memory is correct.

Dont forget the seals.

Let us know if you see rust on and around the axle.

 

[PMK]

Wanted to add, a short while back I helped another local rider replace the bearings on his RT622 trailer.

The design of the hub was machined so there was no lip to catch and drive tne bearing cup out of the hub. The crew hear gave a slew of methods. Anything from run and electric welded bead around the race to the guy was clueless and they come right out. To remove the cups, I had to use a carbide rotary file spun by a die grinder, and created notches that allowed the punch to seat and the bearing cup was driven out.

Mentioning this to let you be aware of possible extra tasks to accomplish a simple task.

 

[trikermutha]

I managed to get mine cups out with a chisel/punch. I know the angle made it almost impossible to remove that way but I did it get it done.

Got lucky not having to use a grinder

 

[PMK]

I managed to get mine cups out with a chisel/punch. I know the angle made it almost impossible to remove that way but I did it get it done.

Got lucky not having to use a grinder

Simply, you were lucky to have an exposed edge of the bearing cup to work with. The hubs I dealt with, the hubs casted bore was a smaller diameter than the bearing cup. There was no lip exposed to catch any tool of any type. Without cutting material away, the hubs were one time use.

Pretty much one of the stupidest hub / bearing designs I have ever seen.

 

[PW2013STL]

Simply, you were lucky to have an exposed edge of the besting cup to work with. The hubs I dealt with, the hubs casted bore was a smaller diameter than the bearing cup. There was no lip exposed to catch any tool of any type. Without cutting material away, the hubs were one time use.

Pretty much one of the stupidest hub / bearing designs I have ever seen.

The two times I have done the races I used a blind hole puller with a 5 pound slide hammer. This worked great!

 

[PMK]

The two times I have done the races I used a blind hole puller with a 5 pound slide hammer. This worked great!

Again, you were simply fortunate there was a means to grab the exposed lip of the bearing cup. These hubs I worked on had no such means. As I stated, the hubs inner diameter was a smaller diameter than the actual bearing cup.

A blind bearing puller would have been great also, but with no ledge to grab, this would have required cutting away even more of the hubs material than just a few notches.

The fortunate thing though, these hubs are pretty soft cast steel, so the carbide cutter made easy work of it.

The original post here, if he needs to replace bearing cups, possibly he is fortunate as others are, or may be in deep doodoo if like the hubs I helped with.

 

[Jeriatric]

All this talk about hub quality begs the question.

Did we get what we paid for?

 

[PMK]

All this talk about hub quality begs the question.

Did we get what we paid for?

Absolutely. The RT622 is a great trailer that matches the style of the Spyder RT series.

Regarding these wheel hubs, they are no better, nor any worse than those on the Spyder itself at the price point they meet.

Actually, current automotive trends are leaning more and more to replacing complete assemblies. I am planning to accomplish wheel bearings in my Toyota Tacoma, and by design, everything is pressed together, and the bearing is a complete assembly consisting of inner and outer bearings.

 

[Jeriatric]

Absolutely. The RT622 is a great trailer that matches the style of the Spyder RT series.

Regarding these wheel hubs, they are no better, nor any worse than those on the Spyder itself at the price point they meet.

Actually, current automotive trends are leaning more and more to replacing complete assemblies. I am planning to accomplish wheel bearings in my Toyota Tacoma, and by design, everything is pressed together, and the bearing is a complete assembly consisting of inner and outer bearings.

Agree

 

[trikermutha]

Simply, you were lucky to have an exposed edge of the bearing cup to work with. The hubs I dealt with, the hubs casted bore was a smaller diameter than the bearing cup. There was no lip exposed to catch any tool of any type. Without cutting material away, the hubs were one time use.

Pretty much one of the stupidest hub / bearing designs I have ever seen.

Yes. I was lucky. Didn't have much to work with until it started to move.

I was hoping to find a aftermarket replacement but could not come up with one that the specs the 622 hub had.

 

[bobfeeney]

If you do not have a maintenance book for your RT622, the book shows that the wheel hubs & sealed bearing is a complete set. The bearings were not intended to be pressed out and replaced. I see someone has stated about the soft hub metal. It is - Can Am had no intension of allowing anyone to replace just the wheel bearings. Yes, these hubs are intended to be replaced just like your truck and/or car wheel bearings, they are built the same way.

 

[upsdoctor]

I started to pull one of the RT622 wheel hubs apart today. The cotter pin, nut, washer and outer bearing came out easy. It seems that the inner bearing is hanging on the axle so I cannot pull the hub. Do I need a wheel puller to get the hub off or just use a rubber mallet and smash it off?