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2008/2013 990/998 V Twin Owners - XPS M Rated Oil versus OTHER Oils Rated API 'M'

I've always strayed away from most oil threads as they usually become a real "PIA".
I've had several motorcycles that I used the Shell Rotella Synthetic oil in with no problems after many 1,000"s of miles. These were all Jap bikes though.

However now that I just bought a used 2015 Spyder I know I'm dealing with a different animal. And since the thread has made reference to the 998 engine, I'm wondering does the 1330 requires something different.

And what about the filter? I see the Can Am oil change kit is pushing $90.
Can you get the filter at Auto Zone, O'Rielly's, etc along along with the correct oil of your choice?

The 1330 is pretty much able to handle any JASO rated MA2 oil out there. Similar to the Japanese bikes. It isn't a problem. It is the 998's that have a very temperamental clutch. I do not know if is the clutch friction material, clutch spring pressure, or a combination of both. But the 998 clutch/oil issues do not translate to the 1330.

The only aftermarket oil filters I know of are Bike Master, HiFlo and K&N. And no one makes the extended transmission filter for the SE5 anymore. K&N did, but they discontinued manufacture of that filter earlier this year. The only vehicle on the planet that uses that filter is the SE5 Spyder. Just not enough volume to bother with.
 
Am new to riding a 2012 Spyder RT SE5... Bike had 1700miles. Like new... When I hit 2000miles I changed the oil. Not knowing if it was changed earlier... So here is my question: when shifting up, 1-2 2-3. 3-4 sometimes 4-5...I sometimes ge what I assume a smooth engagement of gear... At other times I get a (not sure how to call it) clank noise.

Clank is at lower RPMS. 4K. If I shift at 4500 or 5k rpms, mostly get a smooth transition between gears...
After changing the oil, seems more often than not I get the smooth s transition... Which should it be? Which is less tear and wear? Appreciate input... Does the smooth mean clutch is slipping?
 
Am new to riding a 2012 Spyder RT SE5... Bike had 1700miles. Like new... When I hit 2000miles I changed the oil. Not knowing if it was changed earlier... So here is my question: when shifting up, 1-2 2-3. 3-4 sometimes 4-5...I sometimes ge what I assume a smooth engagement of gear... At other times I get a (not sure how to call it) clank noise.

Clank is at lower RPMS. 4K. If I shift at 4500 or 5k rpms, mostly get a smooth transition between gears...
After changing the oil, seems more often than not I get the smooth s transition... Which should it be? Which is less tear and wear? Appreciate input... Does the smooth mean clutch is slipping?

Stick with shifting at 5K 'or above'.

If you want to know if your clutch is slipping? Once you're in fifth gear roll on the throttle(nail it) and watch your tach. If the tach shoots up but your speed doesn't.....it is slipping. If a clutch is really bad it'll slip(when nailing it) in any gear.

Doubt your clutch is slipping, but at 4K you're shifting really early for the 998.........unless....you're a Sunday driver.
 
What do you guys think about this one?

Valvoline™ 4-Stroke Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil

Use Valvoline full synthetic motorcycle oil, it is formulated for the specific needs of motorcycles, including high temperatures, high RPMs, and wet clutch systems. Additional product benefits include:

Synthetic formulation maximizes power and acceleration
Outstanding wet clutch protection for maximum power transfer and smooth shifting
Added protection against harmful deposits that can decrease engine performance
Excellent wear corrosion protection to help keep your engine performaing at its best

Standards: Meets or Exceeds API SF/SG/SJ, JASO MA2

Been using it for about 3K miles. ST-L with 998 V Twin

Think it is OK?
 
Another Oil Question

Alright, I have another oil question for you all... I know about using the JASO MA II rated oil, but I am confused about the API ratings. From what I read it is just to do with chronological release dates??? Most of what I see are SJ or SL rated. Are these suitable for my 2008 GS SE5? Or do I need to look for a 'newer' release of SM or SN? Is that something to pay much attention to?
Thanks for your input!
 
Alright, I have another oil question for you all... I know about using the JASO MA II rated oil, but I am confused about the API ratings. From what I read it is just to do with chronological release dates??? Most of what I see are SJ or SL rated. Are these suitable for my 2008 GS SE5? Or do I need to look for a 'newer' release of SM or SN? Is that something to pay much attention to?
Thanks for your input!

IMHO you are way over-thinking this .... If the oil has a JASO MA II rating it's the best there is ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
IMHO you are way over-thinking this .... If the oil has a JASO MA II rating it's the best there is ..... Mike :thumbup:

ok, well, just wanted to be sure with all the specs and drama that seem to be going around about using the wrong oil. I appreciate your thoughts! Thank you.
 
Yes, I get my filter kit from Ron, but I like to buy my oil local and keep some on hand.

Sorry didn’t see sooner, don’t get more local than delivered to your door.:firstplace: Can discuss quantity with Ron, or just guesstimate. Personally full case worked great for me -same oil good on both bikes & still comfortable unopened spares.:2thumbs::popcorn: Understanding the fine line between “spare” & clutter especially if limited shop space:gaah::popcorn: all still just suggestion.
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Alright, I have another oil question for you all... I know about using the JASO MA II rated oil, but I am confused about the API ratings. From what I read it is just to do with chronological release dates??? Most of what I see are SJ or SL rated. Are these suitable for my 2008 GS SE5? Or do I need to look for a 'newer' release of SM or SN? Is that something to pay much attention to?
Thanks for your input!
Unfortunately lot of don’t know & don’t have scientific equipment or knowledge to test.- could be some internal for bookkeeping & or various word play on labels to stand separately from competition. Sorry not helpful, hopefully lil funny:80B78C72-6046-4853-91B7-A82087019823.jpg
 
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The 1330 is pretty much able to handle any JASO rated MA2 oil out there. Similar to the Japanese bikes. It isn't a problem. It is the 998's that have a very temperamental clutch. I do not know if is the clutch friction material, clutch spring pressure, or a combination of both. But the 998 clutch/oil issues do not translate to the 1330.

The only aftermarket oil filters I know of are Bike Master, HiFlo and K&N. And no one makes the extended transmission filter for the SE5 anymore. K&N did, but they discontinued manufacture of that filter earlier this year. The only vehicle on the planet that uses that filter is the SE5 Spyder. Just not enough volume to bother with.

Oh no! Well, please tell me, Ron, that us old Spyders can still get our extended filters from you!
 
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