special tool build

[cruisinTX]

It's been a while since I replace the rear tire on our 2014 RT and I was unable to find my post about that so I'm starting this one just to share the build of a special tool. I built a compression tool for the rear brake caliper when I did the tire change and had intended to do this one after fighting with the too long sockets. Well today, I got through my months of procrastination and modified one of the 36mm sockets slightly to make it a bit easier to control and torque the axle nut. I cut 3/4" off the end of the socket, then cut off and old cheap pawn shop socket with a 1/2" drive to use with the torque wrench. I'm still thinking the long part that is left is much too long and may yet cut some more off of it as the six point configuration extends nearly all the way to the bottom. For now here is the result with my amateur welding included--ugly but strong. :shocked:

 

[h0gr1der]

I use a Kobalt Metric 1/2-in Drive 12-point 36mm Shallow Socket P.N. 338135 for $8.98 (Lowes). It's short enough to get between the muffler and the axle nut on my RTL while mounted on a torque wrench. It's 12 point but does the job. I'm too lazy to weld.

 

[cruisinTX]

I use a Kobalt Metric 1/2-in Drive 12-point 36mm Shallow Socket P.N. 338135 for $8.98 (Lowes). It's short enough to get between the muffler and the axle nut on my RTL while mounted on a torque wrench. It's 12 point but does the job. I'm too lazy to weld.

Being in a small town, I don't have easy access to stuff like that on the shelf and don't like to buy tools online. I did check a couple of local pawn shops for 36mm open end/box end wrenches--no luck there of course. So, I figured since I have a welder, chop saw and grinder why not just make what I need from the sockets that were way to long to start with.

 

[h0gr1der]

I commend you on skills I don't possess. On this forum, seems like a lot of folks are very capable at making/designing anything. Wonder if this reflects on the Spyders shortcomings?

As an aside, I also bought this for cheap, 36mm box wrench off of ebay-https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunex-936-36-MM-Jumbo-Combination-Wrench-CR-MO-36mm/323305411708?epid=1111819199&hash=item4b4681147c%3Ag%3AwxcAAOSwRjlc8-tV&LH_ItemCondition=3

For some reason I notice that the 36mm stuff is slightly loose on the Spyder axles. Still works, but hard to keep a bite on the bolt without an assistant. Doesn't matter the brand of tool, all of them are loose. Suspect the axles are slightly smaller than 36mm.

 

[Chupaca]

Well done....

Great Idea for those with skills and equipment. Those without can take the parts and plans to a welding shop and have it done. The rest can shop Harbor Freight and the like for other solutions. I use a large cresent wrench on the holding side and the socket and torque wrench on the other....:thumbup:

 

[safecracker]

I use a 1" 7/16 boxed/ opened end wrench, 12pt. Bruce

 

[cruisinTX]

I use a 1" 7/16 boxed/ opened end wrench, 12pt. Bruce

appreciate that. I never bothered to calculate the conversion to SAE. Even if I had, I suspect that size might be a little difficult to find. That said, you know I will sort through the old wrenches in local pawn shops--it's an addiction, I know.