Metal Clunk sound when hitting a hole with rear wheel

[MagYukon]

Hi,

with my F3T 2016, Since a few weeks, I can hear a strange metal clunk sound when hitting a big hole with the rear wheel.

It just feels like if something is loose and 2 metal pieces hits together making that kind of metal sound.

I only hear it when hitting something that can make the rear suspension retract probably completely.

After a quick check, I haven't seen anything loose on the Spyder.

Anybody ever experienced something like this ?

What can it be ?

Thanks !

 

[jcthorne]

Is there air in the rear air spring? 40 to 50 psi?

 

[BajaRon]

If you don't think you are bottoming out, it could be your rear shock mount bolts are loose/bent or that a rubber grommet on your shock end is split or worn out. A number of possibilities here.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The original rear shock on my 2013 RT broke at about 40,000km - the shaft completely parted company with the upper eye where they were supposedly 'welded' together. On checking, it was pretty obvious that the weld that 'broke' had never been even 1/4 complete, and there was actually only quite a tiny sliver of welded metal keeping the whole thing together.... and I suspect that if my hearing had been anywhere near 'adequate' without hearing aids, I may well have heard the metal spring retention plates & the shaft/eye faces etc hitting together for quite some time before what little weld there was finally gave up! :shocked:

So even if you think it's the swing arm bushes, a loose axle or wheel hub, or anything else at all, I'd still suggest you remove the rear shock & spring assy entirely & check it & its operation, bushes, retention plates, etc very very carefully! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[MagYukon]

Is there air in the rear air spring? 40 to 50 psi?

As I ride 90% of the time with my wife, it is at 55-60psi.

 

[MagYukon]

The original rear shock on my 2013 RT broke at about 40,000km - the shaft completely parted company with the upper eye where they were supposedly 'welded' together. On checking, it was pretty obvious that the weld that 'broke' had never been even 1/4 complete, and there was actually only quite a tiny sliver of welded metal keeping the whole thing together.... and I suspect that if my hearing had been anywhere near 'adequate' without hearing aids, I may well have heard the metal spring retention plates & the shaft/eye faces etc hitting together for quite some time before what little weld there was finally gave up! :shocked:

So even if you think it's the swing arm bushes, a loose axle or wheel hub, or anything else at all, I'd still suggest you remove the rear shock & spring assy entirely & check it & its operation, bushes, retention plates, etc very very carefully! :lecturef_smilie:

That is my next thing to do. Trying to look at the rear shock to see how it is.

On normal riding, when the shock extend and retract normally (without going at any of its full limits), no sound at all. It's only when it goes all the way down.

 

[safecracker]

On my RTS (2011) if mine bottoms out it will bang. I had my rear cargo module off Sunday and my shock is ok. Air bag had only 16 lbs of air and I was ryding double. 99% of the bumps mine does not bang.

 

[BajaRon]

That is my next thing to do. Trying to look at the rear shock to see how it is.

On normal riding, when the shock extend and retract normally (without going at any of its full limits), no sound at all. It's only when it goes all the way down.

If you are bottoming out, you will get an unmistakable jarring action with the clunk. Any suspension will do the same, whether or not there is something mechanical wrong.

 

[MagYukon]

After a few more runs on Bumps and Holes, I finally have the impression that the clunk is when the shock is going at fully extend and not compressed.

I'll try to jack the spyder to have the rear wheel not touching the ground. Maybe I'll see if there's something that can be hit and making that noise.

 

[Chupaca]

Bummer.....

It could be the shock is not fuctioning properly and allowing the fluid flow to pass to quickly making the shock shaft to hit the end of it's travel. If all else have the shock tested of just replace it with a better one....:thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

It could be the shock is not fuctioning properly and allowing the fluid flow to pass to quickly making the shock shaft to hit the end of it's travel. If all else have the shock tested of just replace it with a better one....:thumbup:

True. Could simply be a failed shock. Blown dampening valving, for example. You'll probably have to remove the coil spring to check this. If it's really bad it should be obvious.

 

[Tazzel]

I have heard/felt this when hitting bumps sometimes, It sounds like the clutch going down a gear and it maybe gearing down because of the impact. I have had 3 Spyders and have experience it on all 3. Not often but it has happened.

 

[Easy Rider]

Not often but it has happened.

Mine does it too. Not often and not loud.
I was about ready to inspect the trunk looking for something loose.

I ride very conservatively so it is a little odd to have it happen at all.

 

[MakoShark2]

Felt that twice today.

Riding solo. Also got the impression that the noise came when the shock was fully extended. Have an aftermarket shock on mine (F3S).

 

[Peter Aawen]

If it's occurring on full extension, then it's sorta to be expected - there's the coil spring itself plus the valving & oil flow in the internals of the shock to slow any sudden impact & noise on full COMPRESSION (ie, bottoming out) but there's nowhere near as much working with you to damp the 'thud' the stop on the end of the shocker shaft will make on sudden full EXTENSION.... except for the way you ride! And even if you think you're ryding conservatively, if you are regularly bottoming out or topping out the shock, either you're ryding a bit more spiritedly than you thought, or your shock is dead!! And that is quite possible on the OE Shocks, they aren't the most durable items I've ever seen.... with a/mkt shocks, it might be the way it's been valved or the way you've adjusted it, but they will die over time too! :shocked:

That said, there's not a massive amount of travel or real damping in the OE shocks at the best of times, and they are pretty basic units too - not much in the way of oil volume, gas to limit foaming & overheating the oil, no by-pass reservoirs, or any way to adjust the valving to slow the hit at either end..... so if this is happening a lot, you might need consider upgrading to something a little better, and maybe going for a coil spring that's got just a touch more load cpacity. :dontknow: Go too hard with the coil/shock assy & you might over-stress the mount points, so be careful with that! :thumbup:

 

[cueman]

Buy something with an adjustable rebound also. cueman

 

[Rd_Runner]

Hi,

with my F3T 2016, Since a few weeks, I can hear a strange metal clunk sound when hitting a big hole with the rear wheel.

It just feels like if something is loose and 2 metal pieces hits together making that kind of metal sound.

I only hear it when hitting something that can make the rear suspension retract probably completely.

After a quick check, I haven't seen anything loose on the Spyder.

Anybody ever experienced something like this ?

What can it be ?

Thanks !

I would recommend you check the air pressure in the rear shock.
If it is less than 40 PSI or close to zero you likely have an air leak.
This would then allow the rear shock to bottom out.
If it is really low I would then recommend you a get copy of the F3/F3T/F3 Unlimited Service manual.
They can purchased on the internet for a really reasonable price.
The service manual will walk you through how test for leaks and repair them.

Mike

 

[Peteoz]

I would recommend you check the air pressure in the rear shock.
If it is less than 40 PSI or close to zero you likely have an air leak.
This would then allow the rear shock to bottom out.
If it is really low I would then recommend you a get copy of the F3/F3T/F3 Unlimited Service manual.
They can purchased on the internet for a really reasonable price.
The service manual will walk you through how test for leaks and repair them.

Mike

Actually, there is no air shock on the Spyders, Mike The Fox (or whatever) shock and the air bag are two separate items. All the air bag does is raise and lower the rear of the Spyder and provide some cushioning for heavy or light loads. It’s psi will not affect shock bottoming as the weight compressing the stock shock remains the same. I ran my air bag at 70psi and at 5psi on my 2016 F3-L. and it made zero difference to it bottoming out. I have since replaced the stock shock with Wilbers heavy duty (and you do that without even touching the bag), and there is no bottoming out, even with the air bag set to 5psi and my weight at 300lbs.

Pete

 

[MakoShark2]

Mine has an aftermarket shock with adjustable rebound. I guess there isn't much you can do when you are going fast and no time to avoid that big hole/lump on the road :/

Oh, and never happened while riding two up (which is 95% of the time for me), I guess that extra load does help to avoid full extension.

 

[acdcking12]

Do all 2016 F3-T bikes have adjustable rear shocks?